iwinter

The clutch on my Impreza sport has started slipping and I've a new clutch kit on order. Can anyone advise of the procedure to change the clutch.

If its a lower the gearbox job, I assume I have to disconect the front transaxles to allow the box to be lowered sufficiently to get to the clutch cover etc. If so how do I do this?

As I have an engine hoist, I could look at removing the engine, would that be easier than working under the car?

Thanks in anticipation.
Ian Winter

Katana

I've just literally finished changing my clutch today. The exhaust, prop and front driveshaft has definately got to come off. Then its all about getting the alternator off and finally lowering the gearbox. Thats it really.

tweenierob

Kat, why did you take the alternator off??
Do you mean the starter...

Rob

steve_nairn_sti

Just checked the thread about changing clutch posted by jolly green monster. It sounds a LOT more complicated than it's made out to be by you Kat. Personally, as I'm intending doing the work myself I prefer your description and will go on the fact that ignorance is bliss. If it really is a tough job though, can somebody stop me before i wreck my baby!!!

Katana

hehe okay starter motor. I still got the fumes stuck in my brains. Is gearbox oil toxic?

Anyway, thats just the jist of it. Its not complicated, just very time consuming, especially if the box has never been taken off before. After doing it god knows how many times, it just becomes second nature I guess.

dnb

As Katana says, it's not complicated, but you do feel like you've taken half the car apart!

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Hi,

I have just found the destruction manual for pre-97 cars and looked through other stuff..

I'll post some more info when I have something in a format I can post..

I don;t think it is too difficult a job assuming you have the right tools and stuff.. looking at it step by step it is not too bad but standing there looking at the whole job it looks far worse etc..

I am hoping my clutch I glazed it as it has not slipped since.. but I am researching it and finding cheapest place to get the job done or to buy the parts.. if I do the work myself then the money I saved on getting it done it going on tool to do the job as I seem to be forever working on the car at the moment.. mind you with 120,000miles on it now I am not really surprized... roll on the summer when I can ride the bike as that is easy to dismantle etc..

JGM

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Some back ground reading here to get you started:

Taking the engine out, but gearbox info too:
http://bbs.22b.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/000447.html

Similar:
http://bbs.22b.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/000404.html

Transmission out:
http://bbs.22b.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/000344.html

JGM

Edited to correct URL's


[Edited by Jolly Green Monster - 2/22/2003 8:18:00 PM]

kev93wrx

I have done 3 now takes about 7 hours satrt to finish and thats with a full workshop...Its not that simple Kat did you forget to mention the 10mm hex behind the starter then the small bolt you have to insert to release the clutch release arm.OHH you also forgot to say about how hard it is to split the two for the first time.the heat sheilding around the turbo down pipe removal etc..LOL
Saying that its still the second easiest ive done 1st being a cavalier....How are you anyway
Kev

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

check here http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk/

You need the Engine section and it is sections 10 and 11 in there basically..

There is a couple of special tools mentioned whcih I would be interested to know what people have used instead of.

Looking at the destructions Kat if you think it is that easy there is £50 in it for you to change mine

JGM

tweenierob

JGM where do you live, i may be willing to come and give you a hand if you are not too far..
Hardest bit is splitting the two for the first time, the gearbox does not come off of the dowels very easily the first time round..

Most time consuming is probably removing the heatshield off of the downpipe if it is still fitted...
However, i left my downpipe on when i did my clutch, just removed the center section to drop the prop..
IMHO the DP can stay in place to remove the gearbox..

Rob

p.s. no special tools are needed, the hex bolt is a 10mm allen key to remove it and the clutch pivot arm is released/pulled with a 10mm bolt..

To start with...

Jack teh car up and suypport teh chassis with axel stands..

Remove exhaust centre section and unbolt teh Downpipe from the gearbox

Drain the gearbox oil..

Whilst it is draining remove the I/C

Remove the Top gearbox tension bar (*gearbox to bulkhead)

Remove the bung for the clutch arm pin (10mm allen key)

Screw a 10mm (head) bolt into the clutch arm pin inside teh hole where you removed the bung and pull out the pin (can be tight).
Unhook the clutch arm

Remove starter motor.

Drive out the pins in the front driveshafts, these are located in eth larger parts of the driveshafts and pass through teh splines that stick out of the box.

Undo the wishbone mounts on the chassis so that you can pull the driveshafts off of the splines on the box. (this is easier than splitting the ball joints)

Unbolt the propshaft center support, mark the propshaft and the rear diff and unbolt teh propshaft and drop it to the floor.
Slide the prop off of the back of the gerabox (no pin)

Support the gearbox with a jack and unbolt both gearbox mountings and remove them..

Unbolt the 4/6 bell housing bolts...

Remove gear linkage/stabiliser and elecrical connector from teh gearbox.
Remove dipstick..


remove gearbox (much easier said than done the first time)..

The gearbox is VERY HEAVY so dont attemp teh removal on your own..


I may have missed something as i have jsut got in so please add any missing bits..

Rob

Refitting is reversal of removal, however a clutch aligning tool will make life easier.. however... a 3/8 short extension bar with a small adaptor works perfectly..

When refitting the box, if it does not go onto the main shaft easily then turn the crank pulley to rotate teh flywheel/clutch.

Shropshire-Guy

Seen this thread a lot.

Question.

Would it not be easier to take Engine out surely.

ie.

Intercooler off.

Radiator. etc and all the rest starter etc and bring Engine Forward and out

iwinter

Thanks everyone for replying to my original posting.

Given what everyone has said, it would appear to me.
1. Engine out option
This will take about an hour or so to remove, assume therefore 2 hrs to fit the clutch cover plate and refit, giving approx time of 3 to 4 hrs.

2. Gearbox out option
Will take about 4 to 7 hours depending upon how well it goes.

Given that I have an engine hoist it would seem easier to use that and let it take the engine weight, than struggle with the heavy geabox under the car.

If I didn't have the hoist then the gearbox out method would be the only way to go, but as I do I think I should let it earn its keep.

Out of interest does anyone know which method Subaru's workshop manual recommends for doing this job?

Rgds
Ian

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Ian,

The link I put in above is two a page that has the complete Subaru manual on..

So down load it all and have a read

Cheers Rob, I am hoping the clutch is not gone as it was find for 200miles on Friday.. I now know how to change it and should it actually be gone I have the info..

JGM

siwrx

can be a real sod lining up the gear box when ur refitting, would be quicker to do engine imho, i just did this and didnt take engine out and it was a real pain

Hol

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys that was interesting reading.

But, I think I hate the smell of gearbox oil after spending years in fords snapping gearboxes and Axels.

7 hours labour is a lot though. £280.00 ??? + Clutch.