Are Knocklink's worth it?
03 February 2003, 08:28 PM
#1
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Have toyed with getting one over the years, but cannot deicde whether they are a worthy addition or not.
Opinions would be appreciated. Currently running a scoobysport system, K&N induction and a Tek2.
Cheers
Matt
Opinions would be appreciated. Currently running a scoobysport system, K&N induction and a Tek2.
Cheers
Matt
03 February 2003, 10:46 PM
#4
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One word...YES!!! If I hadn't had one fitted I would never have known that mine was slighly knocking at the top end. I can now get it knocked back a few degrees on the re-map & save my engine 
MAFFA
MAFFA
03 February 2003, 11:19 PM
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Matt,
You were lucky @ PE this time last year!!! If you had had a Knocklink, there is a very good chance you wouldn't have needed to be lucky as with the mixture you were running, the Knocklink would have been lit up like a Christmas tree for most of the time you were on boost!!!
Need I say more?
Matt
You were lucky @ PE this time last year!!! If you had had a Knocklink, there is a very good chance you wouldn't have needed to be lucky as with the mixture you were running, the Knocklink would have been lit up like a Christmas tree for most of the time you were on boost!!!
Need I say more?
Matt
04 February 2003, 01:15 PM
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I would have to say YES too.
Even if your car has no mods, something *might* go amiss as the car ages (eg MAF sensor), and a KL will give you an early indication of what otherwise might be catastrophic engine failure.
Even if your car has no mods, something *might* go amiss as the car ages (eg MAF sensor), and a KL will give you an early indication of what otherwise might be catastrophic engine failure.
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04 February 2003, 05:32 PM
#8
Which would you fit first then Knocklink or AFR, If the AFR is showing plenty of fuel, You wouldn't expect knock ?, But then you could have filled with 95 Ron fuel I take it, Still read rich on the AFR but experience knock Also due to the low RON of the fuel.
Dean
Dean
04 February 2003, 09:55 PM
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Paul you may want to wait a couple months for the new 52mm gauge-style knocklink as the current models are pig ugly IMHO. Of course, with your mods, if your engine goes boom in the meantime don't blame me 
05 February 2003, 10:10 AM
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Has anyone got the link for the scoobymania LED gauge ? For one, I don't know what I'm looking at on their page; but know it must be a good thing, since I'm getting mine Tek'd next week.
Won't make it look all 'Knight Rider' will it ? I don't want to have to shell out for chest wigs and medallions.
Won't make it look all 'Knight Rider' will it ? I don't want to have to shell out for chest wigs and medallions.
05 February 2003, 11:42 AM
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Edcase - Thanx for reply.
Where can i get these from m8'..? my defis are 60mm in th epod, i guess going for the 52mm will be less intrusive?? does it mount on the a pillar..? What colour does it come in..? have u got any pics.. ? your help is appreciated.
Where can i get these from m8'..? my defis are 60mm in th epod, i guess going for the 52mm will be less intrusive?? does it mount on the a pillar..? What colour does it come in..? have u got any pics.. ? your help is appreciated.
05 February 2003, 12:06 PM
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Well the 52mm gauge - style knocklink is due in 6 - 8 weeks IIRC, from br developments
Will be more expensive than the LED link naturally.
As for the column mount gauge pod, I'm not sure where you can get these at 52mm but I'm sure I remember someone saying they had them. Failing that get a single A-pillar pod?
Will be more expensive than the LED link naturally.
As for the column mount gauge pod, I'm not sure where you can get these at 52mm but I'm sure I remember someone saying they had them. Failing that get a single A-pillar pod?
05 February 2003, 12:09 PM
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I'll be getting my Scooby in 7 weeks and am considering a knocklink too. Can anyone direct me to there website or a good supplier though i can't seem to find Knocklink anywhere, maybe i'm just been poo.
Tar,
Andy.
Tar,
Andy.
05 February 2003, 12:11 PM
#21
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Nito at Nitosport has 52mm gauge pods for column, IIRC.
Look in http://shop.scoobynet.co.uk/ for his info.
Look in http://shop.scoobynet.co.uk/ for his info.
05 February 2003, 01:31 PM
#22
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Andy,
You can get the original Knocklink from BR Development and JW Racing. Expect to pay around £140 for the square designed one.
The new one you'll need to get from BR Development.
You can also buy an alternative one from Scoobymania. That's just a simple row of LED's. I'm still trying to get a price from them on their version
Stefan
You can get the original Knocklink from BR Development and JW Racing. Expect to pay around £140 for the square designed one.
The new one you'll need to get from BR Development.
You can also buy an alternative one from Scoobymania. That's just a simple row of LED's. I'm still trying to get a price from them on their version
Stefan
05 February 2003, 04:28 PM
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Has anyone confirmed that they actually work?
Meaning that when the bad-end of the scale is lit-up it is actually knock that is casuing it?
OEM knock sensor calibration is a MAJOR task. I would be very surprised if the knocklink worked ACCURATELY. Simply changing headers / manifold will affect the signal path to the sensor.....
Meaning that when the bad-end of the scale is lit-up it is actually knock that is casuing it?
OEM knock sensor calibration is a MAJOR task. I would be very surprised if the knocklink worked ACCURATELY. Simply changing headers / manifold will affect the signal path to the sensor.....
05 February 2003, 06:17 PM
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Usually when mine lights up if I take a degree of timing off it goes away. I run it on maximum sensitivity, and to me it seems just as good as listening into the signal with headphones, and rather more practical when sliding about the road in low gears Perhaps I am being overcautious with my timing in not tolerating anything over second green LED at high RPM, but my engine so far has stayed together and seems to be making the expected power for the mods I have.
Perhaps I am being overcautious with my timing in not tolerating anything over second green LED at high RPM, but my engine so far has stayed together and seems to be making the expected power for the mods I have.
05 February 2003, 10:42 PM
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Quick question, what exactly is a knock-link, is it just an accelerometer type device? And if so, is it really that much more effective than the knock sensor already fitted to the car? J
06 February 2003, 12:02 AM
#27
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Accelermoter is any device that measures acceleration. A knocklink has nothing to do with that.
The Impreza has it's own Knock sensor, which is connected to the ECU to handle knock correction. This means you're at the sole mercy of the OEM sensors accuracy AND that the ECU map has the ability to handle it.
Fitting a seperate, more accurate and better quality sensor speaks for itself and the external LED's tells you exactly when to back off.
As John has told me before, above 5,000 rpm the ECU can sometimes ignore any det and if it does you have no protection unless you have an external knock detector display fitted. So, yes it is more effective that relying on the OEM sensor. IMHO, of course.
Stefan
[Edited by ozzy - 2/6/2003 12:05:16 AM]
Assuming the engine is operating correctly, the LEDs will show only background noise which will rise in proportion to engine power output. Any abrupt rise in signal level at any time is an indication that detonation is occurring. The immediate remedy is to close the throttle. Severe detonation will destroy any engine in seconds.
Knocking is the self detonation of the unburnt fuel in the combustion chamber toward the end of combustion. The flame burns abound ten times faster than normal causing huge pressures. Possible cures for knocking are: cooler intake air; increased intake humidity; reduce load; increase RPM; enrichen or lean engine from lambda stoichiometric; improve spark; increase octane level of fuel; reduce total ignition advance etc.
Fitting a seperate, more accurate and better quality sensor speaks for itself and the external LED's tells you exactly when to back off.
As John has told me before, above 5,000 rpm the ECU can sometimes ignore any det and if it does you have no protection unless you have an external knock detector display fitted. So, yes it is more effective that relying on the OEM sensor. IMHO, of course.
Stefan
[Edited by ozzy - 2/6/2003 12:05:16 AM]
06 February 2003, 12:08 PM
#28
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The knock sensor is an accelometer.
It is the signal proocessing that is critical.
You can`t state that the knock-link is `more accurate` or `higher quality`. I would almost garantee that the KL calibration is not as sophisticated as the OEM one.
It is the signal proocessing that is critical.
You can`t state that the knock-link is `more accurate` or `higher quality`. I would almost garantee that the KL calibration is not as sophisticated as the OEM one.
06 February 2003, 12:12 PM
#29
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The knocklink is just a bandpass filter with a delay circuit on and a voltmeter display, but the ECU can miss the car audibly detonating. When I had headers on the car it was pulling no timing at all when it was audibly detonating.
There are some TI chips that use programmable DSP to detect knock, but there are no consumer orientated products that use them that I've found.
There are some TI chips that use programmable DSP to detect knock, but there are no consumer orientated products that use them that I've found.
06 February 2003, 12:32 PM
#30
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James, you're quite correct it is an Accelometer, but it ain't an Accelerometer as stated above. I guess it was just a typo and I didn't read into it enough.
You can splice into the OEM Knock sensor signal still using the Knocklink display.
The question then is 'is the replacement Bosch sensor any more accurate or sensitive than the OEM one. Is it the sensor that needs calibration or the external knock detector box itself.
If the sensor isn't any better, then you could argue that you don't need to spend money on a seperate one and just tap into the ECU signal.
If it's the actual display that needs calibrated, then if you don't fit one you're left to trust the ECU alone and as John has pointed out already, it can ignore Knock above 5,000 rpm.
Stefan
You can splice into the OEM Knock sensor signal still using the Knocklink display.
The question then is 'is the replacement Bosch sensor any more accurate or sensitive than the OEM one. Is it the sensor that needs calibration or the external knock detector box itself.
If the sensor isn't any better, then you could argue that you don't need to spend money on a seperate one and just tap into the ECU signal.
If it's the actual display that needs calibrated, then if you don't fit one you're left to trust the ECU alone and as John has pointed out already, it can ignore Knock above 5,000 rpm.
Stefan