My DIY FMIC positive/negative comments wanted (with pics)
12 February 2002, 08:04 AM
#2
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Fanfeckintastic!
Having not seen an EVO intercooler on a Scoob before, I had thought that it was significantly smaller than the "full-width" types that are generally fitted, however, I didn't realise how much taller it was. The overall pipe length looks pretty good when compared to most of the commercial offerings, although you've still got a few 90deg bends.
Will the cold air inlet pipe still fit over the i/c->inlet manifold pipe when you change to a front entry?
Do you have any boost/rpm comparisons compared to the top mount?
Do you feel much extra lag?
Andrew...
[Edited by AndrewC - 12/2/2002 8:07:32 AM]
Having not seen an EVO intercooler on a Scoob before, I had thought that it was significantly smaller than the "full-width" types that are generally fitted, however, I didn't realise how much taller it was. The overall pipe length looks pretty good when compared to most of the commercial offerings, although you've still got a few 90deg bends.
Will the cold air inlet pipe still fit over the i/c->inlet manifold pipe when you change to a front entry?
Do you have any boost/rpm comparisons compared to the top mount?
Do you feel much extra lag?
Andrew...
[Edited by AndrewC - 12/2/2002 8:07:32 AM]
12 February 2002, 05:22 PM
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Cheers people..
No extra lag noticed
No heat soak deffo noticed!!!
the left boost hose runs quite low so the inlet will run over it..
Seems to have more torque lower down??
I might lag all the pipes??
Harvey, any idea exactly what lagging would be suitable and deffo mail me with a price for you know what.. deffo want it just wasnt sure how much they go for?????
Cheers
Rob
edited to add.. Total cost about £300, £150 for I/C and £150 for hoses and pipe... However i sold My aircon for £150.. so that helped..
Dont have any boost comparisons i'm afraid..
[Edited by tweenierob - 12/2/2002 5:28:25 PM]
No extra lag noticed
No heat soak deffo noticed!!!
the left boost hose runs quite low so the inlet will run over it..
Seems to have more torque lower down??
I might lag all the pipes??
Harvey, any idea exactly what lagging would be suitable and deffo mail me with a price for you know what.. deffo want it just wasnt sure how much they go for?????
Cheers
Rob
edited to add.. Total cost about £300, £150 for I/C and £150 for hoses and pipe... However i sold My aircon for £150.. so that helped..
Dont have any boost comparisons i'm afraid..
[Edited by tweenierob - 12/2/2002 5:28:25 PM]
12 February 2002, 06:04 PM
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tweenierob,
Just out of interest do you know if you can buy and an intercooler with the inlet and outlet on one side...??
As i was wondering if you could have the pipes going to the FMIC on the battery side and also have them coming back that way to the throttle... I was thinking of relocating the battery e.t.c...????
Just a thought....
Also did you keep all the measurments and type of pipes you needed to do it, as this might be the next little project on the cards for me..!!!
Dan
[Edited by dhorwich - 12/2/2002 6:23:58 PM]
Just out of interest do you know if you can buy and an intercooler with the inlet and outlet on one side...??
As i was wondering if you could have the pipes going to the FMIC on the battery side and also have them coming back that way to the throttle... I was thinking of relocating the battery e.t.c...????
Just a thought....
Also did you keep all the measurments and type of pipes you needed to do it, as this might be the next little project on the cards for me..!!!
Dan
[Edited by dhorwich - 12/2/2002 6:23:58 PM]
01 December 2002, 09:04 PM
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As Above..
Firstly i would like to thank David Wallis for giving me the thought of actually attempting this DIY style...
Secondly, this is not complete.. new brakets are being made and i am going to lag the boost pipes above the turbo..
Basically i would like some comments form the scoobynet people about what i should change/modify before completion...
Firstly.. this is where it is mounted, needs to be a bit more central
This is the boost pipe into the I/C
The pipe from the turbo
Left hand pipe to I/C
Left hand boost pipe
Top of engine bay
Right hand side of I/C
Left hand side of
I/C
Another engine bay shot
In and out of manifold
Left hand boost pipe
Front of intercooler
Front of car
I am going to put the grill back on once i have fitted the brackets, the bleed valve is for my fuel cut
And finally...WHAT A FECKIN DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Rob
Firstly i would like to thank David Wallis for giving me the thought of actually attempting this DIY style...
Secondly, this is not complete.. new brakets are being made and i am going to lag the boost pipes above the turbo..
Basically i would like some comments form the scoobynet people about what i should change/modify before completion...
Firstly.. this is where it is mounted, needs to be a bit more central
This is the boost pipe into the I/C
The pipe from the turbo
Left hand pipe to I/C
Left hand boost pipe
Top of engine bay
Right hand side of I/C
Left hand side of
I/C
Another engine bay shot
In and out of manifold
Left hand boost pipe
Front of intercooler
Front of car
I am going to put the grill back on once i have fitted the brackets, the bleed valve is for my fuel cut
And finally...WHAT A FECKIN DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Rob
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01 December 2002, 10:11 PM
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Nice one Rob
One thing I would say is that the air exit from the radiator is just as important (some would say more important) as the air inlet.
Pulling the rad back so far may obstruct outlet airflow ? The main airflow would appear to be up over the engine and down out past the gearbox.
If possible I would recommend cutting away the headlight surrounds to make room for the I/C hoses and moving everything forward again as far as you can.
Probably not a problem on the road but maybe on a trackday ??
Nice to be individual in approach anyway keep it up
Andy
One thing I would say is that the air exit from the radiator is just as important (some would say more important) as the air inlet.
Pulling the rad back so far may obstruct outlet airflow ? The main airflow would appear to be up over the engine and down out past the gearbox.
If possible I would recommend cutting away the headlight surrounds to make room for the I/C hoses and moving everything forward again as far as you can.
Probably not a problem on the road but maybe on a trackday ??
Nice to be individual in approach anyway
keep it up Andy
01 December 2002, 10:23 PM
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Nice one Andy, did look at cutting the headlight surrounds but not sure if i would need to weld support in to strengthen the bits i cut out... Want to make sure my headlights dont face the stars and not be able to adjust em
Deffo not a track day car!! at the moment
, water temps have stayed pretty much the same but i have not given the car loads of stick since i fitted it all in.
Think i need to invest in a dremel cutter (or similar) this week and cut back the surrounds, better airflow/much neater!!
Thanks for the reply mate
Rob
Deffo not a track day car!! at the moment
, water temps have stayed pretty much the same but i have not given the car loads of stick since i fitted it all in. Think i need to invest in a dremel cutter (or similar) this week and cut back the surrounds, better airflow/much neater!!
Thanks for the reply mate
Rob
02 December 2002, 02:27 AM
#12
Hi Rob: You have very little choice in the pipe route so you just have to do the best in the space available taking into account bending of pipes.
All the stainless pipes will absorb engine bay heat, not just the ones over the turbo so lagging with insulation material or even exhaust wrap is a good idea. Industrial supply companies, plumbing or heating engineers may have suitable material at a fraction of the cost of motor factors etc.
Best insulation would come from ceramic coating inside and out but there would be a delay while that was carried out.
Let us know what you do in the end. Bet you saved some wonga.
All the stainless pipes will absorb engine bay heat, not just the ones over the turbo so lagging with insulation material or even exhaust wrap is a good idea. Industrial supply companies, plumbing or heating engineers may have suitable material at a fraction of the cost of motor factors etc.
Best insulation would come from ceramic coating inside and out but there would be a delay while that was carried out.
Let us know what you do in the end. Bet you saved some wonga.
02 December 2002, 06:20 PM
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Did keep all the measurements mate
I think you might have difficulty routing the pipework if they both went in by the battery, if you imagine that the inlet pipe is 2" and the outlet 2 1/2" that is 4" of clearance that you will need, plus you wont be able to have the ports on the same side, only way i could think of you doing it would be to mount a smaller I/C on it side, so that left and right ports become top and bottom, if that makes sense??
Deffo worth doing mate
Rob
I think you might have difficulty routing the pipework if they both went in by the battery, if you imagine that the inlet pipe is 2" and the outlet 2 1/2" that is 4" of clearance that you will need, plus you wont be able to have the ports on the same side, only way i could think of you doing it would be to mount a smaller I/C on it side, so that left and right ports become top and bottom, if that makes sense??
Deffo worth doing mate
Rob
02 December 2002, 06:37 PM
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Havent got a dump valve fitted at the moment
Gonna go for recirc when i do though..
Thinkin about it.. I paid £50 for the original Pulsar I/C which could have been saved
Rob
still not bad for £350
Gonna go for recirc when i do though..
Thinkin about it.. I paid £50 for the original Pulsar I/C which could have been saved
Rob
still not bad for £350
03 December 2002, 05:44 AM
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Have a look on the Mitsubishi Lancer register, One pops up every now and then... i actually bought the Evo I/C for a EVO VI GSR but managed to get a Pace one For £400 which went on the EVO...
So the std one went on the scoob
Cheers
Rob
So the std one went on the scoob
Cheers
Rob
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