David_Wallis

Going to build a new engine over a period of time...

Starting point 2ltr closed deck block.

Dont know whether I can disclose Crank Rods and Pistons yet..

What would you add whilst doing this?

Oil Pump..
Uprated Bearings?

What else..

David

harvey

iTrader: (48)

AIR CON!!!

SPEN555

David,

Go completely OTT and get a flat 6 closed deck block if there is such one?

Damian.

Adam M

yes there is.

nightmare to fit,

ask Pat


Head studs, uprated bearings, fuel pump, roger clarke oil pump, cross drilled (questionable) billet crank, billet cams

wire ring block

would rather discuss offline to be honest. Would be v boring otherwise.

MorayMackenzie

I'm not sure that the pat related flat 6 is actually closed deck.

[Edited by MorayMackenzie - 10/30/2002 11:10:00 AM]

David_Wallis

Adam mail me... only thing is I wont be keeping it a secret (unless mark tells me I cant mention the spec of some bits that I'll source through him)... so dont say if you dont want to

Also not doing billet cams.. as I know the price of them..

I am doing this on a resonable budget, but will pay top money on rods pistons and crank.

David

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Why 2ltr, thought you would have gone for bigger?

If you are going to do it, do it right, thats my philosophy, although sadly forgotten on my project.

Replace/uprate everything if you can, seeing as though you are doing it over quite along period of time.

JM2PW

Pete Croney

David

An oil gallery will keep piston temps much lower, especially if running very high boost.

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

He didnt say 2.0, he said a starting point would be a 2.0 closed deck block....

StanS

iTrader: (3)

If going for serious power you need to allow for uprating the transmission and clutch. Mark A sourced a lot of my stuff and some engine internals and has a mountain of information (and patience when dealing with the terminally dumb !) depending on what you want to achieve.
I wish I had a few dollars more for decent heads/cams whilst the engine was being rebuilt - but unless you are working on a £15K+ budget for a 2litre, you have to draw the lines somewhere !!!
Stan

Fuzz

personal opinion would be to stroke it rather than bore it out.
reason...moves torque lower down and leaves the walls of the bores nice and thick for lots of boost.. don't like liners going oval under pressure


Andy

Gez

A 2.2L stroker kit is v-good maybe Jun or Toda power (TDI are doing a good deal on scoobyshop and if you are replacing crank,pistons and rods then you will kick yourself if you dont buy it.)
Metal head gasket,
Roger Clarke Oil pump (:-) Adam)
Uprated big ends
Jun valve springs
Jun valve guides
Mocal oil cooler
Apexi Fmic
LINK,MOTEC,GEMS,POWER FC ECU,
Good uprated gearset
Good twin plate clutch (HKS and Cusco are awsome especially for launches.)
Greddy 20G turbo with external actuator,
Decat pipe,
Jun Manifold,
Sard radiator,
Sard fuel pressure regulator,
750cc injectors,
Bosch 280L/hour fuel pump with STI anti-surge kit,
And to top it off Cusco suspension.

The list is endless but this is good start. Make sure you take it to someone who has ver good experience with scoob engines. If you want to talk a bit more about this and a few good places that i know wil do a good job on your car drop me an email

Cheers

Gez

Pavlo

hmmm

Gez, did you not notice the word 'budget' ?

R19KET

I agree with increasing the engine capacity, but feel some of the "off the shelf" stroker kits are very expensive, for what they are.

There's nothing wrong with using bigger liners, if the work is done by someone who know's what he's doing.

Pete:

Can you explain what you mean by "oil gallery". Or do you mean "oil squirters" ?

Mark.

Hol

iTrader: (1)

If you do mean budget!, then deffo a new uprated oil pump and one thing everyone has forgot.

A NEW uprated clutch. You dont want to be takin the gearbox off again if you dont have to.


Edited to say everyone except Gez

[Edited by Hol - 10/30/2002 8:59:59 PM]

SMG

De burr block properly
lead big ends
plastigauge for main/b/end clearance checking
heavy duty stud and nut kit
metal shim gaskets
get your quench zone right
Full engine balance
If getting a steel crank try for one that does not supply both 2 and 3 oil supplys through the centre main.
sort a spring set up that will not be coil bound with high lift cams
Torco pre engine lube, dont use on bores, high silicon base not good for running in but cover cams and dont be shy.
Good breather system.
oil presure/temp gauges.
Make sure you prime the oil pump.
Steve.

rally colin

use a modified oil pump

Gez

I definately mentioned the uprated modified oil pump by Roger clark motorsport.
Pavlo, if an engine rebuild is to be carried out yes you do have to stick to a budget. If you are going to do it properly a large amount has to be spent. There is no point in cutting corners. I do agree that stroker kits can cost an arm and a leg BUT if you look at how much a decent set of pistons, rods and crank cost you then it adds up to the price of a stroker kit more or less.
Cosworth Pistons = £900
Arrow rods = £700
STI wrc crank = £1200
Total = £2800
TDI are doing a deal on the scoobyshop for a TODA racing 2.2l stroker kit for approx £2300 if im not mistaken.
An uprated oil pump as i mentioned from roger clark motorsport is a must and costs only £149.

Cheers

Gerry

Trout...

£2300 for a stroker kit - is that cheap?

Trout

[Edited by Trout - 10/30/2002 11:47:48 PM]

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Steve. Have you done any more work with the cams yet?? Any info to share with us??
Cheers, Stevie

Gez

Considering that other companies charge around £3k, its not too bad. TODA power and JUN who also make stroker kits for the scooby are very good.

Cheers

Gez

R19KET

Gez,

I suggest you take a closer look at the Toda stroker kit.

79mm crank is Stock EJ25, and for Phase one cars will have the smaller 48mm bigend journals. Phase two will be 52mm. Either way, it's circa £400 + vat from Subaru.

The rods also "look" like stock Subaru parts, and I'd guess they have 48mm bigend jounals. They don't even "appear" to be using up rated rod bolts.

Pistons are no doubt forged custom, but Cosworth pistons are about £600 + vat.

Bigend bearings, well even up rated lead bearings would only be circa £100 + vat.

Then you've got some labour to blue print the rods/crank/bigends.

Mark.

[Edited by R19KET - 10/31/2002 2:00:21 AM]

David_Wallis

Also Gez, I suggest you look into my current spec so far...apexi fmic? No.

cant remember what turbo you suggested, but It wont be that...

Will be a garett GT Series or similar.

David

Gez

Whats wrong with Apexi FMIC???? Out of all the I/C i have had and tested APEXI is the most efficent. The fin design is superb.

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Read his DIY FMIC Thread, he made his own, and it works very well!

Gez

Ok didnt realise the diy fmic was his. Well done, and even more well done if it works well.

Regarding the turbo, Greddy 20G is absolutely brilliant. Go on their besite and have a look at the spec. I have been in an STI 4 with Greddy 20G, all i can say is that it was a monster. Only downside is the price :-(

Gez

David_Wallis

Ill be getting the turbo from Mark Aigin at Lateral performance... if I build this..

David

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Hi David:Vernier pullies if not mentioned already.
Want to buy a good turbo?

Gez

Ive heard a lot about Mark Aigin! All good ofcourse.

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

top bloke he is