Induction Kit / Performance Mods
#1
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I am contemplating fitting an induction kit (HKS or possibly K&N)as the next mod to my 97MY UK turbo. However, i am a bit concerned about the noise levels of such kits as i'm not keen on sounding like the Maxpower brigade!
My scoob is currently around 285-300Bhp with the following mods: Scorpion decat downpipe, Prodrive Backbox, K&N Panel filter, Intercooler water spray, Ecotek valve, Dawes device, Fuel Cut Defencer, Samco hoses.
I am running around 18-19psi (according to GGR boost gauge), and also have an autometer A/F gauge to keep an eye on tings. I need some advice on where to go next, as I think an induction kit seems like the next step to me. Also, have any MAF failures been reported with the HKS/K&N filters? I'm under the impression that disturbing the MAF is the likely cause of failure, not the filter.
On a different note, the A/F gauge always goes quite rich on WOT, so am i right in thinking a touch more boost will be safe?
Cheers,
Leeroy
My scoob is currently around 285-300Bhp with the following mods: Scorpion decat downpipe, Prodrive Backbox, K&N Panel filter, Intercooler water spray, Ecotek valve, Dawes device, Fuel Cut Defencer, Samco hoses.
I am running around 18-19psi (according to GGR boost gauge), and also have an autometer A/F gauge to keep an eye on tings. I need some advice on where to go next, as I think an induction kit seems like the next step to me. Also, have any MAF failures been reported with the HKS/K&N filters? I'm under the impression that disturbing the MAF is the likely cause of failure, not the filter.
On a different note, the A/F gauge always goes quite rich on WOT, so am i right in thinking a touch more boost will be safe?
Cheers,
Leeroy
#2
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An AFR meter is one small part of checking an engine is safe to run more boost. You can quite merrily destroy an engine by too much boost even if it is awash with fuel. The turbo is too small to go over 18 PSI with any setup IMHO.
Yes I am trying to scare you as it sounds like you really need to get a Knocklink from http://www.brdevelopments.com before you go further IMHO.
[Edited by john banks - 10/17/2002 8:03:08 PM]
Yes I am trying to scare you as it sounds like you really need to get a Knocklink from http://www.brdevelopments.com before you go further IMHO.
[Edited by john banks - 10/17/2002 8:03:08 PM]
#3
I know some people that keep a spare MAF in the cubby hole . Its not the be all and end all to blowing it (the maf that is) . How much more power you want then . John will often advise a bigger turbo. I have seen cars make good power increases at same boost with a bigger turbo . Personally I like perfecting things so also like to fiddle for the sake of it . But if you want long strong horses its gonna be an imperical investment .
Go for it !
Ray
Go for it !
Ray
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John,
I assume the Knocklink is used to monitor/adjust the knock sensor signal only, as an add-on (or seperate) to the Possum Link ECU. What are its benefits? It seems possible to optimize fuelling when knock is more closely monitored, and i assume that the car can be effectively 'set-up' to run super unleaded with more ignition advance?
Pardon my ignorance but i'm relatively new to this tuning malarky!
Cheers,
Lee
I assume the Knocklink is used to monitor/adjust the knock sensor signal only, as an add-on (or seperate) to the Possum Link ECU. What are its benefits? It seems possible to optimize fuelling when knock is more closely monitored, and i assume that the car can be effectively 'set-up' to run super unleaded with more ignition advance?
Pardon my ignorance but i'm relatively new to this tuning malarky!
Cheers,
Lee
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The knocklink just tells you when it is knocking so you can do something about it before you destroy your engine, as most people don't seem to notice knock unless it is really bad.
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John/Anybody,
What are your thoughts on the induction kit? I was contemplating just removing the resonator and leaving the airbox where it is with the existing K&N panel filter. I think this'll allow purely cold air from the wing to enter the intake, rather than a mix of hot and cold with an engine bay mounted cone filter. I suppose the other option is to mount a cone filter in the wing....
Leeroy
What are your thoughts on the induction kit? I was contemplating just removing the resonator and leaving the airbox where it is with the existing K&N panel filter. I think this'll allow purely cold air from the wing to enter the intake, rather than a mix of hot and cold with an engine bay mounted cone filter. I suppose the other option is to mount a cone filter in the wing....
Leeroy
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#8
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If you are fitting a K+N panel filter do not remove the resonator as it serves a purpose. You could go to a mushroom or cone filter but that will breathe hot air unless you then fabricate a reverse cone to enclose the filter and bud it up to the wing at which point you can junk the resonator.
Unless you are a power junky intending to go further and prepared to do some work the K+N is fairly efficient and relatively quiet.
Unless you are a power junky intending to go further and prepared to do some work the K+N is fairly efficient and relatively quiet.
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Harvey,
I already have the K&N panel, and have just removed the resonator. Initial thoughts are it sounds great, and the boost was up 2psi following a test drive(later wound back down to 19psi). I will continue to test the car, for scientific purposes, by accelerating obscenely quickly when conditions allow!
I already have the K&N panel, and have just removed the resonator. Initial thoughts are it sounds great, and the boost was up 2psi following a test drive(later wound back down to 19psi). I will continue to test the car, for scientific purposes, by accelerating obscenely quickly when conditions allow!
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