tweenierob

Hi People..
My car is currently running 1.18bar and power figures are 317bhp/290lbft, the car is a MY93 WRX.
My current spec is as follows.. SS DP, blitz nur spec R, hks induction, PE ecu, FMIC (as of tomorrow), blitz boost controller, walboro fuel pump, aircon removed, HKS BOV, AFR gauge, knocklink/sensor... thinks that all..

What are your thought on Water injection?? i have been told that the FMIC should be suffice to keep intake down enough for det reduction at 1.5bar..

No doubt my injectors are at full stretch, are my current std injectors 380's and would 550's be the next step or 440's??

Am i going to need uprated pistons or/and rods??
I am pretty sure the answer is yes to the last question, but are they a deffo purchase if i want to run that much boost??

I am only going to run 1.5 as a overboost setting on my BC but need to lower the chances of destruction. i currently run .53bar 60% of the time with 1.0bar and 1.18bar as my next highest settings.

I change the oil and filter every 3-4k as i dont have to pay for it (mobil 1 motorsport, oe filter)

Excuse the lengthy text but i wanted to write evrything i could think of so that advice may be easier to find...

Oh yeah.. egt gauge and oil pressure gauge coming on friday..

Cheers for any replies

Rob

tweenierob

not sure how this happened..
Mods could you move to drivetrain please??
Rob


[Edited by tweenierob - 10/13/2002 7:07:47 PM]

Mo

Hi Rob,

pretty impressive figures for you mods so far.

Injectors would be my main concern, speak to Pavlo about getting some 550's; I think these should be able to supply enough fuel for the boost you wish to run. You will need a 3bar MAP sensor though, these can be had from BRD amongst other places.

Fitting WI can only be a good thing, it will allow you to run much more advance and will come into it's own if you decide to use the car on track; speak to Trout about his experiences and speak to Mark Aigin as he is now an ERL dealer.

Internals should be fine providing you're running correct AFRs. And as you've already mentioned the fitting of an EGT guage will give a good realtime indication of what is going on.

My UK94 has been run at 1.2bar with Unichip/WI/Crappy_slanted_intercooler for well over two years and 35k miles now with no problems on road or track. About time I got a decent map though

tweenierob

Cheers for the reply Mo..
Not really a track driver, i'm sure i would love it but prefer 1/4 mile sprints, imho track days can stress where no road has ever stressed before
I'm currently running 12.8 for the quarter and really want to get in the 11's but keep things safe for day to day booting as well..
Gonna have words with Mark A about WI..
Cheers mate..
Got the EGT gauge sorted just gotta find the best place to mount and where to get the sensor from.....
Rob

Danny Fisher

Rob, I was running a HELD 1.6 BAR of boost using some 480cc injectors.

These are for sale if you are interested. They have just been cleaned and flow checked, all ok. Mail me offline, if they may be of interest.

Dan

Mo

Have you changed the TD05 to front entry?

Fit manifold insulators to prevent heatsoak and remove the coolant feed to the throttle body. If you decide to go for WI use a 50/50 mix of methanol/water.

Andy W

Sorry for the hijack but where can you get methanol?

Andy

tweenierob

From work

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Quick one Rob.... is your KL set to max sensitivity and what sort of activity do you get? I've got a similar age car and im having problems with the Knocklink lighting up red at high revs/full boost.

With regards to high boost on early cars.... Rich Wild is your man. He's been running 1.5 bar for a while now. He's only just got an FMIC and injectors tho. If i were you i'd get the injectors and i'd see how you go, leave the internals for a later day (having said that if i had the money i'd do the lot ).

Tony.

R19KET

There's a little more to this, than just running 1.5bar of boost.

First of all, just because you run 1.5bar, doesn't mean that you are achieving a lot of power. As an example, IR one guy running 1.5bar on a Superchip, getting less power at a RR day, than Pat got running a well mapped 1bar.

One of the issues, is "head gaskets", and it would be worth checking to see if you have the tri-metalic, or composites.

Part of the problem with identifying just how strong the internals are, is that failures have occurred with as low as 1.2bar, whilst others are able to run in excess of 1.5bar. So where do you draw the line.

I think you'll find, that most of the guys running 1.5bar +, accept that the engine may well let go, but are prepared to accept the consequences, and dare I say, even use it as an excuse to justify an engine re-build

Most important, is to get the fuelling, and ignition correct, keep the intake, and exhaust temps down.

If you want peace of mind, change the rods, and pistons.

Mark.

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Mark... why would you think that some people running high boost want the engine to let go .......

'Sorry my dearest wife the car has suddenly broken down to no fault of mine and i've been told it has to have essential repairs to the engine and it only makes ecconomical sense to replace with better parts honey so it doesn't happen again'

Do you think i'll get away with that

Tony.

Adam M

Tone, if you are having a problem clearing things with the wife simple thing to do is to get rid of the wife!

tweenierob

Lol @ get rid of the wife!!
I would deffo not keep my boost up if i saw even a glimpse of the evil red light!!!
I have my knocklink adjusted to full sensetivity and on full boost at about 5300rpm i get two green and one orange, i get one green flashing sometimes..
I do know that when i fitted my sensor i checked the connection was ok by getting a friend to tap the sensor, it took quite a tap to light up 'big red'...
However.. imho if your sensor is mounted right on the block then you may get lights that i dont as mine is mounted on the manifold..

What ecu do you have, if you are on standard ecu you need to replace it
TL what spec is your car (all)

I have some other info but it depends on what ecu you are running mate..

Rob..

P.s. nice hijack mate lol

R19KET

It's good to set the KL to max' sen's, but ideally, you need to set it up with det' cans.

Some engines, particuarly the older engines, can be very "noisey", and setting the sen's to max, can be misleading. However, always err on the side of caution.

Mark.

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Guys, full spec of car:

MY93 WRX
Full Scoobysport decat
K+N Induction kit
Bailey EVO dump valve
IC water spray
Remapped JECS ECU (using Prodrive map with modified boost and soleniod duty maps to give 16.5 psi boost).

I have the Sensor mounted on the engine block, when i tapped it with a wrench (the bolt that holds the sensor in place) it made the red light come on..... i hardly touched it!

Maybe i should try it on the manifold and see what happens..... i'd rather have it on the block tho and trim the sensitivity down a touch. Also if the engine is stood still and i rev the engine the bottom green lights flicks on at about 5500 rpm.... is this basically saying i've got a 'noisy' engine??

Cheers,

Tony.

BTW.. sorry to hijack the thread Rob .

[Edited by Tone Loc - 10/14/2002 10:34:19 PM]

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

LOL@Adam..... if the wife saw that she'd kill me/you .

Tony.

[Edited by Tone Loc - 10/15/2002 7:39:27 AM]