john banks

.89 to .91 is indeed the one to watch for fuelling and is nice and rich as intended - standard would be about 0.91 to 0.93. 0.87 supposedly corresponds to about 7% CO, 0.89 to about 9% CO, 0.91 is filthy rich. For cars on TMICs, I don't like going below 0.89. I run 0.87 personally but the charge temps are cooler with a bigger turbo and FMIC and I am prepared to tolerate higher risk on my own car which is carefully monitored. Knock correction on zero is good, if you see more than -2 when on boost then turn the boost down. Don't spend hours aiming precisely for an exact boost target. Should only need to get it to the nearest 1/2 turn with the Dawes and then leave it alone and enjoy driving it for a few days, adjust thereafter is necessary. There is no need to chase it very precisely. Also note that Delta Dash does not read over 18.4 PSI as the Select Monitor protocol saturates. If you see this you have set things too high.

[Edited by john banks - 10/6/2002 8:59:32 PM]

mutant_matt

John,

You know I'm a pleb, why would you recommend me for that? Are you not an EcuTek mapper? (or are you just being lazy )

Matt

[Edited by mutant_matt - 10/7/2002 2:10:56 PM]

dowser

Thanks Steve,

What output type is the Motec unit? Any chance of setting DD up for the Aussie one too (http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm)? John's got one you could borrow

For sure, a cheaper pcmcia converter is required!

Richard

[Edited by dowser - 10/8/2002 2:01:12 PM]

Bob Rawle

Not quite John, it also seems to be used in limp home mode when the maf is disconnected.

[Edited by Bob Rawle - 10/9/2002 7:57:57 PM]

mega_stream

In my quest to hold a steady boost at 1.25 bar I spent a couple of hours this afternoon doing various tweaks and logging runs.

Can someone confirm the main figures I'm looking at are the Front O2 voltage not going below .7 and to watch the knock correction.

I'm now holding 1.25 bar and get readings 02 readings of between .91 and .895 volts. All the runs I did I didn't see any knock correction at all.

This .91 to .895 reading is a sign of fueling is it not?, is there any other numbers I need to keep an eye on other than these 2?

Moles Dad

Wow

I was getting (at worst) -2 knock correction when we did the log runs, mind you it was getting a bit 'warm'

Turn the boost down? I cant, Ive tried but each time go to the evc my hands shake and I have to come back in

Good luck Mega, thanks JB.

john banks

It is a bit different because you have a PPP ECU - it runs really advanced, whereas John has a Tek ECU which has timing mapped for 18 PSI rather than 15.7 PSI. So more knock correction would be expected earlier as you jack up the boost with a PPP ECU. Nothing wrong with -2 in particular, just that I am being cautious. A lots of imports run -4 at standard boost on UK fuel. I just prefer it to be about zero so that there is plenty of safety margin for the ECU to retard.

Razor2001

Hi John,

Do you mind if I email you my deltadash readings, one which is a 1st through mid 4th gear blast and one which is from about 2,000 rpms to about 7,000 rpms WOT in 4th gear ?

I am thinking about turning up the boost as my 02 readins are usually between 1 - 1.020 which seems crazy rich to me. I also only have positive knock correction so I am hoping that I can turn up the boost slightly (1 - 2 psi) to lean things out a little and get a little more speed

Cheers,
Ray

mutant_matt

Ray,

I have logged a few MY01/02 WRX/STi's and the fueling always seems to be between 0.95 and 1v which by the old shape standards is filthy rich. Bear in mind that on the new cars the O2 sensor is not in the downpipe anymore but in the centre section, behind two Cats (on the old car it was in front of both).

I have not yet found anybody who knows how to turn the O2 readings from the new shape cars into an AFR (and I have asked on both this board and 22b, to no avail).

Matt

mega_stream

Cheers JB

Only wish I had set this up before the PE rollers

Razor2001

bttt

john banks

Ray I suggest mailing them to Matt or Ecutek.

Razor2001

Fair enough, thanks for response John

Cheers,
Ray

john banks

I have only logged one STi 7 on the track in low gears, and one Unichipped car. I have no documentation/experience about what the normal ranges are. Until I get the STi 7 software for remapping so I can actually see how it all works I will be talking rubbish. Compare with probably hundreds of MY99/00 logs I have sweated over, over 40 remaps, and building various appendages to the ECU and the knowledge base is rather more limited than comparitive intimate knowledge of the MY99/00. I am also aware that Ray lives in a hot country and that ECUs cannot always be trusted to pick up detonation even that you can hear. So the last thing I can do is offer advice about what he can do on a car I know little of and cannot actually see (and hear). Also I am a bit overwhelmed by the number of people sending me logs as I have just started a new GP partnership 6 days ago.

mutant_matt

Fair enough John

Matt

Razor2001

Completetly understand John ...now stop scarin me about my car detting

Ray

Moles Dad

Apologies for the late response...no i-net on building site

Thanks JB, feel better now

Man at PE (Mr.Merve) said it was running 'well safe' but I wonder if my addition of 'Pro Boost' for the day made any difference (?)
Or was it just 'rich' sort of safe.

StephenDone

Hi Guys,

On the new cars, 'Air Fuel Sensor Number 1' outputs an accurate Lambda Ratio.

1 means 14.7:1
So 0.9 would be 13.23
And 1.1 would mean 16.17

The only trouble with the sensor is that it only reads down to about 11.24:1. You will see the sensor bottom out at different values on different days - this is because the sensor output is compensated for atmospheric pressure, and this changes the limit value slightly.

Be careful when leaning out the fuelling on an 01/02 unless you remove the up-pipe cat. From Aus, I've heard reports of them catching fire and lunching the turbo when they get too hot. We tend to replace the up-pipe and put a good cat in the centre section - you can then let your EGTs go up a little.

Steve

john banks

Ecutek flamer kit

11.2:1 who would want to go richer than that ? Better get those uppipe shops busy gents....

The two reasons I see for Scoobies being rich are the cats and the TMIC. It is incredible how much a 20C drop in charge temperature makes to the amount of advance you can run, but on my car I just turn the boost up to something more appropriate Stephen is a bit more sophisticated and whips *** on the dyno by stealth

StephenDone

Yeah,

That Motec PLM Wideband Lambda did do the trick on Saturday :-)

Steve

dowser

And which version of DD supports this plug-in?

Richard

StephenDone

An unreleased Beta at the moment. You also need to buy an AtoD PCMCIA card for it to plug into. The version I am using is very expensive, and I am looking for a cheaper alternative for the masses. £800 for PLM & £450 for A2D may have limited appeal !

Steve

StephenDone

Any external inputs can be used with a linear relationship between input voltage and output value. I've setup the Motec to give 0-5v for 8-20 AFR. Just check for analogue output capability.

Apologies for hijacking the thread.

Steve

john banks

The OZ WB has an RS232 output facility. If you used a USB-serial cable so it could be run with DD concurrently....

Alternatively an ADC PCMCIA card?

dowser

John - that's what Steve's done for the Motec into DD

Looking at the Aussie product response curve (http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wblambda.htm), it's a non-linear output though. Any chance of writing full calibration scaling into the DD interface Steve?

Richard

john banks

Yes Richard, I was meaning to connect the Oz AFR to the ADC in the same way as the MoTeC WB. I don't mind voltages just want the AFR with all the other DD data if poss.

dowser

Agreed - any temp resistant voltage would be a definite step up.

Richard

john banks

I think I will hijack the MAP sensor input for occasional DD logging and do a quick excel transform to get AFR. It is the only non-essential ECU ADC input I can think of on the MY99/00 UK spec cars to make the engine actually run... but you need to use a boost controller LOL. Of course my right foot will be the fuel cut. MAP input seems to be only used for boost control. Don't try this at home

dowser

You didn't try the 3 port yet then

Richard