jonmyers

Been thinking about turbos... (my wife says 'thanks' John B...!)

I fitted my own DP, samco hoses, uprated brakes and do the usual stuff, so quite fancy replacing the turbo myself. Is it a DIY job? Anyone else done it? what are the potential problems?

I was thinking about a vf series.

Thanks,

Jon

john banks

The downpipe is actually the hardest bit depending on which one you have. The Magnex I have is a double ba$***d because of the sensible mounting points they choose.

Basically:

1. Intercooler and brackets off
2. Downpipe off
3. Release uppipe studs
4. Release compressor inlet pipe
5. Release coolant hose
6. Remove banjo bolts for oil and coolant (one on the side is a horror as you lose the washers and they disappear somewhere near the steering rack and you can't find them)
7. Remove turbo
8. Usually have to separate the side banjo bolts as they are further apart on the VF.
9. Transfer oil drain pipe
10. Fit new turbo with new uppipe and downpipe gaskets. Lose several banjo bolt washers in the process and growl and scream. Getting the new turbo onto its oil drain, uppipe and compressor inlet all at once without malefuwsting the coolant and oil pipes will give you some entertainment.
11. etc.

Cautions: make sure the oil drain is properly in, make sure you do not lose banjo bolt washers and if so be careful of the size you replace them with - my coolant was not circulating after using the nearest banjo bolt washers we could find.

Thanks to T-uk and Andy F for their help with the now four sessions switching turbos about. T-uk is very good at undoing ba$t*** tight bolts which I am not.

My best advice is only do it once!

Jamie Whitfield

LOL I second that! Only do it once!

BTW - Hi Jon, haven't heard from you for a while, are you ok?

Jamie

www.j-w-racing.com

SecretAgentMan

I've done this several times, and it's an easy job (with the right tools). A lift, and one of those small wheel nut airgun thingamajiggies really helps (especially on the downpipe bolts).

About the banjo stuff JB is talking about...is that the pipe that's fitted to the turbo? If so, I leave those on the turbo and refit them to the new one once out....much easier.

There is one thing that's a complete buggar...the oil return hose, a short piece of rubbery hosing with 2 clips...a top tip is to secure that one with a jubilee clamp on the turbo, and use a bit of oil on the other end to get it to slide on easily.

It's still a PITA to get the lower clip seated properly.

/J

jonmyers

Thanks for that guys.

Sounds like i should give it a go. I'll follow your top tips and make sure i have plenty of time. No air tools unfortunately, though i should be ok with the DP bolts as that was changed only a couple of months back. Having said that, the turbo gets hotter these days!

Now - just to source a nice replacement without breaking the bank...

Hi Jammie - fine thanks m8. Thinking about your short-shifter!

john banks

Jerry do you disconnect them at the other end then? Didn't look easy to get to on mine hence changing them on the turbo. Would be nice to do it an easier way not that there will be a next time!

jonmyers

Perhaps this should be obvious - but i'll ask anyway:

Will i need to drain (or partially drain) the coolant system and/or oil before embarking on this job?

thanks, Jon

SecretAgentMan

Just plug the coolant lines....remember to let the engine cool down before U go at it.

JB - I'm not sure on exactly what you mean by "banjo"...umm...I remove the top oil feeder line from the turbo (12 mm bolt) and usually ends up with both copper shims lost .

The oil return (the lower bit) I just pull off when the turbo is removed (U need to put some elbow grease into this bit).

Coolant lines are just held by clips, so they are easily removed, plug them up when you remove them.

I don't know if the RHD cars are any different than my LHD though.

Good luck!

/J

caz1562

I'm glad this thread is ongoing, as I have a turbo to change out next week

Hope I don't have too much swearing to do though !!!

jonmyers

caz - you'll be letting us know how you got on won't you?
Cheers.

caz1562

I'll have too, as my turbo is semi-dead so need to remove and replace next week.

Anyone know where to get good gaskets for doing this task ?

Pavlo

your local dealer, or grahamgoode is a good start

paul

jonmyers

Looking through the MRT site they note an issue in the design of the splitter for the exhaust collector. Apparently the VF turbos have a different depth to the TD04 meaning if you swap turbos you should adjust the length of the splitter.

Does this mean anything to anyone?

Thanks, Jon

john banks

Don't worry about it Jon unless you have a twin dump downpipe, and then don't worry again.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

So what is a typical time estimate please?

AlanG

Two hours should cover it

john banks

T-uk and I do it in 2 hours now after some considerable practice, but the first time took rather longer. Allow yourself a whole day when you don't need to use the car to be sure just to be pessimistic

T-uk

it can take two hours just to do an awkward down pipe.

mind you,most of that is laughing at a certain doctor with all the strength of a wet paper bag ,never thought doctors could swear so much

jonmyers

I won't worry about that then!

I was going to set a full day aside - it took the best part of 3 hours for me to do the DP. Still, i won't be messing cutting the heat shield this time...

Got yours fitted yet Caz?

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Cheers guys. Let you know how it goes.

caz1562

Jon,

Awaiting the gaskets from GGR, then should be doing this Thurs/Fri.

[Edited by caz1562 - 9/16/2002 5:42:08 PM]

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

I'd budget on 5 hours just to change a DP for the first time for any novices out there, especially if the std heat shields are in place....

What do you do with the oil lines - just plug them as well? How much drains out once released?

How do you make sure that there are no air pockets once replaced - oil and coolant?

F

jonmyers

...all these questions and more will be answered by caz after thursday! (no pressure caz!. Good luck mate.

Jon

caz1562

Cheers m8

jonmyers

Well caz - get it done yet? if so, don't be shy - post the results (good and bad!)

Thanks, Jon

StephenDone

Getting the nuts off the up-pipe studs can be a real pig. It's definitely worth having all possible tools around (i.e. try to use someone's workshop). I needed a 2 foot breaker bar and a turbo socket to remove the bolts on my turbo. A turbo socket bites into (and screws itself onto) a nut to undo it after you've rounded off the edges with the torque you've had to use - a God send.

You can make refitting of the rubber oil return hose easier by using a jubilee clip to secure it to the turbo, then drop the other end down onto the metal pipe as you fit the turbo. The standard clips used are very weak (since there's no oil pressure at this point) and they tend to slip around when are trying to get the turbo back on otherwise.

Having a 'Bob Rawle' walk in and assist while you are doing it, also helps greatly, but this particular piece of equipment can be hard to source. (Thanks Bob!)

Steve

NickAdams

iTrader: (5)

Jon,
Katrina seems to be allowin you to spend a lot of money on that car recently doesn't she????? How have you sweet talked her then? (May need to use the same technique with Kay cos I'm considering a Ecutek for mine,and up-pipe,and boost gauge,and quickshift,and..... )

Cu soon

Nick

caz1562

Jon,

Graham Goode Racing screwed up my order of gaskets, finally the 3 bolt gasket arrived on Sat morning but as I'm nightshift all weekend the job will have to wait till Tuesday now. Everything is ready to go though. Will keep you posted......

Trout...

Done it four times...best time is two hours!

Don't forget to put a plug in the water line when you take it off otherwise you lose half your water.

Let's make an allowance that you undo it, lose a bit of water trying to find something that fits...

...you will need to top up and run the car for a while with the header tank lid off to clear any air - I had this problem first time.


And don't forget to run it for a while on the starter motor with the crankshaft sensor disconnected (above and behind crank pulley) so you prime the turbo with nice you oil that you have just had put in - complete with new filter!

Good Luck

Trout

caz1562

Well I couldn't wait till Tuesday, so I started the job this afternoon. Intercooler & Induction pipework all came off without a hitch (this stuff has been on & off at least 5 times in the last 14 days). Downpipe bolts all came off again without any complications (they were pretty slack). Now for the 1st problem. My exhaust is a slip-on type and ended up having to remove the full system to allow for downpipe removal. This took a little time to separate but I got there in the end. I sprayed the 3 exhaust manifold to turbo bolts with WD-40 and will tackle job in the morning (ran out of time to leave for work).

Now for what I can see the banjo-bolt underneath the turbo looks a right bugger to get into but I'm sure I'll manage to slacken.

Another update tomorrow. Here do you put exhaust paste on the new gaskets ?

Trout - Can you explain what I need to disconnect for the crank sensor. Never really thought of this part, I already know about the water side of things (fitted new radiator & SAMCO hoses last year).