I fitted my fuel pump and lived to tell the tale
15 August 2002, 12:49 AM
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Well I did it.
But only after loads of worrying and asking ppl what was what. Thank you Mark and Trout for your much needed advice when I was worrying about blowing the estate up. Even though you were up to your eyes in diffs etc you put my mind at rest, so thanks. Much of this is your words regurgitated.
I wanted to take photos but didn’t have a camera but I might get it out again to take some, yeah right
. I'm going to post full instructions on Ian Whites site as I found it hard to get the info when I looked. So for ppl in the future here’s how I did it. This is with the walbro pump btw.
In the boot are two panels, as you look at the rear, one on the left and one on the right. The one on the right offside is the one you want. Open the panel to reveal a lid with three pipes and an electric socket. I ran the car and then pulled the electric plug out to hopefully release the pressure. I hear that this isn’t really necessary but I didn’t want to risk petrol everywhere just in case Anyway, the car stalls. Disconnect the battery and start to remove the pipes from the newly opened lid. They are in three gauges. The thickest, with a v shape clip will spill the most fuel; so make sure you have lots of rags ready.
Undo the bolts around the lid and you will be able to pull the whole structure out. This includes the pump and lifter so be careful. You have to twist it round till you can get the thing out as the lifter catches. Once out you see the old pump attached to the fuel line and only then does it become clear. The new pump looks half the size so I get on phone to Trout. Its fine he says calmly………Parrrp.
Push the pump up by the bottom, its held in by a rubber spacer. It slides out of the structure at which point you can pull the tube, at top of pump, from the rail. Disconnect the electrical contacts from the pins at the top of the pump. Forgot to say, the pump holds a bit of fuel so tip it upside down somewhere to get rid of it, like on the ants nest that’s been plaguing me!
The electrical contacts are ring connectors and the new pump has a plug for the pump with a red and black wire. You need to join these up by crimping some new rings onto the red and black wires and joning them onto the existing bolts. The live had a rubber around the live originally which you need to push over the newly connected live. At this point I had to ask for advice cos I thought hang on, both the live and earth are hanging in the fuel???? They are not spaced like the connectors on the original pump. Trout explains that attached to both the live wire and earth is a wire, which goes to a resistor to stop it shorting…….ok apprehensively……..tie wrap the live with the original insulator to something so it doesn’t move. Ok all connected electrically.
Take the old filter off the old pump. Its connected by a washer, don’t know the technical term but the ones that bar onto things. You get the washer off with a small screwdriver, but there’s a new one in the pack if u f*** it up. I was advised to put the old filter onto the new filter cos its bigger and fuel surge has been noticed with the new filter. The angle is different but no worries. Put this on the new pump with the washer you managed to save Put the pump onto the fuel line with the rubber hose using the jubilee clips and push into structure with new rubber spacer at bottom. It’s a bit fiddly and watch the lifter!
All done refit as undone and reconnect everything. Prime the pump by turning the ignition to 2. Started first time, I didn’t run away from car honest
Anyway, this is probably all known to the masses but thought id post it as I couldn’t find a written description so I hope it’s of some help to someone.
Regards
Paul.
[Edited by paulwadams_my99 - 8/15/2002 1:27:53 AM]
But only after loads of worrying and asking ppl what was what. Thank you Mark and Trout for your much needed advice when I was worrying about blowing the estate up. Even though you were up to your eyes in diffs etc you put my mind at rest, so thanks. Much of this is your words regurgitated.
I wanted to take photos but didn’t have a camera but I might get it out again to take some, yeah right
. I'm going to post full instructions on Ian Whites site as I found it hard to get the info when I looked. So for ppl in the future here’s how I did it. This is with the walbro pump btw.In the boot are two panels, as you look at the rear, one on the left and one on the right. The one on the right offside is the one you want. Open the panel to reveal a lid with three pipes and an electric socket. I ran the car and then pulled the electric plug out to hopefully release the pressure. I hear that this isn’t really necessary but I didn’t want to risk petrol everywhere just in case
Anyway, the car stalls. Disconnect the battery and start to remove the pipes from the newly opened lid. They are in three gauges. The thickest, with a v shape clip will spill the most fuel; so make sure you have lots of rags ready. Undo the bolts around the lid and you will be able to pull the whole structure out. This includes the pump and lifter so be careful. You have to twist it round till you can get the thing out as the lifter catches. Once out you see the old pump attached to the fuel line and only then does it become clear. The new pump looks half the size so I get on phone to Trout. Its fine he says calmly………Parrrp.
Push the pump up by the bottom, its held in by a rubber spacer. It slides out of the structure at which point you can pull the tube, at top of pump, from the rail. Disconnect the electrical contacts from the pins at the top of the pump. Forgot to say, the pump holds a bit of fuel so tip it upside down somewhere to get rid of it, like on the ants nest that’s been plaguing me!
The electrical contacts are ring connectors and the new pump has a plug for the pump with a red and black wire. You need to join these up by crimping some new rings onto the red and black wires and joning them onto the existing bolts. The live had a rubber around the live originally which you need to push over the newly connected live. At this point I had to ask for advice cos I thought hang on, both the live and earth are hanging in the fuel???? They are not spaced like the connectors on the original pump. Trout explains that attached to both the live wire and earth is a wire, which goes to a resistor to stop it shorting…….ok apprehensively……..tie wrap the live with the original insulator to something so it doesn’t move. Ok all connected electrically.
Take the old filter off the old pump. Its connected by a washer, don’t know the technical term but the ones that bar onto things. You get the washer off with a small screwdriver, but there’s a new one in the pack if u f*** it up. I was advised to put the old filter onto the new filter cos its bigger and fuel surge has been noticed with the new filter. The angle is different but no worries. Put this on the new pump with the washer you managed to save
Put the pump onto the fuel line with the rubber hose using the jubilee clips and push into structure with new rubber spacer at bottom. It’s a bit fiddly and watch the lifter!All done refit as undone and reconnect everything. Prime the pump by turning the ignition to 2. Started first time, I didn’t run away from car honest
Anyway, this is probably all known to the masses but thought id post it as I couldn’t find a written description so I hope it’s of some help to someone.
Regards
Paul.
[Edited by paulwadams_my99 - 8/15/2002 1:27:53 AM]
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15 August 2002, 09:48 AM
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The fuel gauge remains fine, it was a running joke because someone who was tinkering in the area (other side of tank I believe) forgot to reconnect the lead to the fuel gauge afterwards, and only discovered the mistake by chance when nothing worked!
15 August 2002, 10:07 AM
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Is it a joke to you plantie
I was ****ting myself about the lifter attached to the structure. Neil had me in such a panic! I was sweating looking at it Saying that I found it to be quite resilient really.
I was ****ting myself about the lifter attached to the structure. Neil had me in such a panic! I was sweating looking at it
Saying that I found it to be quite resilient really.
15 August 2002, 10:14 AM
#11
Drag it!
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BTW Paul thanks for the detail. Just printed off and put in box ready for when the install is done. Saves me having to ring Trout or Mark, but i am sure Mr Wallis will cope
15 August 2002, 04:24 PM
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Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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LOL.. I need to do mine.. might do saturday morning... should be ale to change a fuel pump with 1 hand..
David
David
16 August 2002, 11:43 AM
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Plantie - nope, Mark's is fine - it just needed a little adjustment to the electrical system - like plugging it in 
Steven - it is really easy - taking the back seat out takes the longest. Also if you disconnect the return hoses first then you get less petrol everywhere. At Bushey Tuning we took mine out to do some anti-surge mods and it only took then minutes out - ten minutes back.
Trout
Steven - it is really easy - taking the back seat out takes the longest. Also if you disconnect the return hoses first then you get less petrol everywhere. At Bushey Tuning we took mine out to do some anti-surge mods and it only took then minutes out - ten minutes back.
Trout
23 August 2002, 04:44 PM
#21
Took it apart, but didn't know when to stop. BTN turbo just said £500 for a balance!!!!!!! LOL! They said the mitsubishi parts were hard to get hold of so they would get a complete new core.
AVO have apparent fixed the "machine" and will start making them on tuesday. Joke if you ask me, they should have got them subb'd out to a machine shop and finishers.
Paul
AVO have apparent fixed the "machine" and will start making them on tuesday. Joke if you ask me, they should have got them subb'd out to a machine shop and finishers.
Paul
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