Dawes questions
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure which way I had it now...I took it off the other day
Have a looke here, it may help http://www.geocities.com/harryboy_sc...wes_device.htm
Those pics are for MY97-MY00 though....
Thinking about it, it sounds like you may have it the right way and I was completely wrong earlier, sorry
[Edited by Hanslow - 8/6/2002 11:17:06 PM]
Have a looke here, it may help http://www.geocities.com/harryboy_sc...wes_device.htm
Those pics are for MY97-MY00 though....
Thinking about it, it sounds like you may have it the right way and I was completely wrong earlier, sorry
[Edited by Hanslow - 8/6/2002 11:17:06 PM]
#2
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On my MY00, I think the wire I spliced to for the lambda reading was white and silver? Think pin no 21 is correct though. Thing is, I used the DIY AFR and not a Dawes one
There is a document that gives you the pins to the ECU....I'll have a hunt and post the url.
Here you go, have a look in here. Should help you identify the correct wire to splice http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/docs/WRX-V5.pdf
It's 745k in size.
[Edited by Hanslow - 8/7/2002 11:18:33 PM]
There is a document that gives you the pins to the ECU....I'll have a hunt and post the url.
Here you go, have a look in here. Should help you identify the correct wire to splice http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/docs/WRX-V5.pdf
It's 745k in size.
[Edited by Hanslow - 8/7/2002 11:18:33 PM]
#3
After fitting my boost gauge, AFM and Dawes I took the car out for a spin to set it up. It was running at about 8 psi. Following the instructions this sounded normal so I adjusted the controller clockwise a turn or so and drove off again. Only up to 9 psi, but small adjustments are best. I then realised I was lengthening the controller and not shortening it. So I shortened it a bit at a time for several goes and am now running at 6 psi. This sounds as though I have the controller on back to front but I am definitely shortening it (the thread is closing). What is going wrong?
I took the bottom pipe off the tee and plugged it, put the elbow end of the controller onto the wastegate (looks kind of like the dump valve), and attached the other end of the controller onto the nipple that the original pipe was on (whole of the original pipe now removed). This is what the instructions say. As you look into the engine bay from the front, the elbow is on the left.
Help required please.
J
I took the bottom pipe off the tee and plugged it, put the elbow end of the controller onto the wastegate (looks kind of like the dump valve), and attached the other end of the controller onto the nipple that the original pipe was on (whole of the original pipe now removed). This is what the instructions say. As you look into the engine bay from the front, the elbow is on the left.
Help required please.
J
#4
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds to me like you have it the wrong way round
I think when mine was on, elbow was on the right.
Someone might have some pics somewhere.....
I think when mine was on, elbow was on the right.
Someone might have some pics somewhere.....
#5
It does seem that way. Hope I've not damaged the engine or parts. Only spent 30 mins with it like that. It was a bit dark and hot under the bonnet so gave up for the day.
If any one has pics I'd appreciate them.
J
If any one has pics I'd appreciate them.
J
#6
Looking at the pics I have definetly got it the right way round. Maybe the shortening bit is confusing me. I thought this meant bringing the two large nuts together hence shortening the boost controller but looking at the pic and reading the instructions again it appears that you turn the large nut at the elbow end to shorten the gap between it and the elbow.
Correct??
j
Correct??
j
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe what you do (if this makes sense) is to shorten the bit between the elbow, and the first of the two large nut shaped things. Once you have adjusted it to reliable settings, you then use the small (width) nut between the elbow and large nut (spring chamber) and tighten it against the large nut so that it locks it and stops it from moving.
Does that make sense?
A number of topics can be found here http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...threadid=77143
HTH
Does that make sense?
A number of topics can be found here http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...threadid=77143
HTH
Trending Topics
#8
J,you have it connected correct,to adjust it,loosen locknut elbo end hold elbo end turn the rest of dawes anti clockwise,this will shorten it.tighten up locknut,the pipe on other side will of twisted,twist it back and secure it.check boost,repeat if nes.hope this helps,Dug.
#9
Thanks guys. Adjusted it properly this morning all the way up to the fuel cut off. Never saw a green light though. When I switch the car on and off the AFM flicks through all the lights so I assume I have the correct wire (having talked to Subaru Technical).
Was expecting to set my boost to around 16.5 psi without getting the cut off but it's only at about 15 psi. I have an AE800 on my MY99 and reading threads on here I thought fuel cut off to be about 17.5 psi.
Can anyone shed any light on the above?
Thanks
J
Was expecting to set my boost to around 16.5 psi without getting the cut off but it's only at about 15 psi. I have an AE800 on my MY99 and reading threads on here I thought fuel cut off to be about 17.5 psi.
Can anyone shed any light on the above?
Thanks
J
#10
Well this has been a bit of a nightmare.
Did the blue wire the Subaru Technical department said but that didn't work so phoned them back and they stayed adament that it was a blue wire (num 21) in my ECU. I got them to fax the wiring diagram to me and checked this against my wiring loom. Num 21 is a white one with silver flecks. Connected this up to the AFM white wire and off I went to check it out.
It just flicked on and off red even when I'd been driving for 20 mins and under -5 psi, so I assumed this was incorrect and decided to try WOT. Red light came on and stayed on and I had a couple of flicks down into the orange. Back to front AFM? I thought polarisation errors couldn't occur. Still haven't seen blue or green but once the car was warmed up I started hitting the fuel cut again at 15.5psi. When the car had only been running for 5 mins I could hold a steady 15.5psi for loads of seconds without cut off.
Could all this be down to the fact I've cut 3 wires and not yet soldered them up (i've used connectors and electrical tape)?
Surely, I'm not running lean and when I accelerate I start going rich. Lol.
I am starting to get really frustrated now, especially because my driving pleasure gets interuptted by the fuel cut. I have had to lower the boost to about 14psi so I don't get it. This hardly seems worth the money for 2 psi.
Anyone any ideas? Please.
J
Did the blue wire the Subaru Technical department said but that didn't work so phoned them back and they stayed adament that it was a blue wire (num 21) in my ECU. I got them to fax the wiring diagram to me and checked this against my wiring loom. Num 21 is a white one with silver flecks. Connected this up to the AFM white wire and off I went to check it out.
It just flicked on and off red even when I'd been driving for 20 mins and under -5 psi, so I assumed this was incorrect and decided to try WOT. Red light came on and stayed on and I had a couple of flicks down into the orange. Back to front AFM? I thought polarisation errors couldn't occur. Still haven't seen blue or green but once the car was warmed up I started hitting the fuel cut again at 15.5psi. When the car had only been running for 5 mins I could hold a steady 15.5psi for loads of seconds without cut off.
Could all this be down to the fact I've cut 3 wires and not yet soldered them up (i've used connectors and electrical tape)?
Surely, I'm not running lean and when I accelerate I start going rich. Lol.
I am starting to get really frustrated now, especially because my driving pleasure gets interuptted by the fuel cut. I have had to lower the boost to about 14psi so I don't get it. This hardly seems worth the money for 2 psi.
Anyone any ideas? Please.
J
#11
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you have a look on pages 31 and 33 the signal wire for the AFR is pin 21 on the Blue connector block B136. From what I remember (please correct me if I am wrong) this is a grey and white wire. The numbering on the diagram is as if you are looking into the block from the ECU side I think. Anyway, if you match up the blocks by colour and the runners on the top, you should be able to find the right one to splice
#12
Cheers Hanslow. I've definetly got it right this time. It's white with silver flecks on it - Number 21. Subaru Technical didn't say which side they were looking at it from, so I counted 21 pins and got to a blue wire (which is the colour they said it would be and also maintained that yesterday). I know there are several types of ECUs but they should really know these things? I'm now getting false? readings from my AFM. It flicks on and off red all the time. I occasionally see orange, but no green or blue.
No idea what's going on?
J
No idea what's going on?
J
#13
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Brzoza
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
1
02 October 2015 05:26 PM