UkLegacyT

as above, anyone know, cant see any access holes in the correct place.

ian

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

See other post re positions, and you HAVE to remove pistons before you can split the block.

Stephen Cole

There's plugs in the side of the block that allow access to the gudgion pins
So with sump off and heads off you can either
a) remove gudgion pins and remove pistons
or
b) undo big ends and remove pistong complete with rods (this is a guess, I've never tried it)

Almost certainly need the engine out of the car to do this, but you never know.
PS Did I say I've never actually done this, but a few more knowledgable people have

MorayMackenzie

You can remove the pistons without spliting the block, but you need the appropriate gudgeon pin removal tool.

Also, it is perfectly possible to split the block without removing the pistons first, I have done this twice. The trick is to split the block and open it just enough to get access to the rod bolts, and then to remove the bolts from both rods on one bank. Then simply remove the two piston/rod assemblies on that bank, from that point on its easy.

Moray
bbs.22b.com

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

I dont think it is possible to remove the rods with the block still bolted together. I have never tried, but it would be very difficult to undo the rod bolts, and impossible to torque them back up for re-fitting.
You do not need to remove the sump to remove/refit the pistons, but it will make it easier to re-fit them.
If you wish to remove the rods from the crank, for whatever reason, you have to split the block. it would be a waste of time trying to do it without splitting it.

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

I stand corrected, never thought of doing it like that. Sounds a bit tricky tho. Removing the pistons is prettty easy tho, so I'll stick with that method. But why do the pins get so bloody tight to remove????? Quick weld/grind....one gudgeon removal tool...basically consisting of threaded rod, wedge anchor ( similar to rawlbolt ) a couple of nuts, lump of metal, and it almost resembles a puller/slide hammer.

UkLegacyT

nice one

going out there now to do it, will post success on the other thread later on.

cheers
ian

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

Just as an aside, Mark (R19KET) and I were looking at a WRX RA engine and a UK engine the other day and both had Gudgen Pin circlips that could be removed through the holes in the block using ordinary long needle nosed pliers.

The Gudgen pins themselves had a taper towards the middle where there was a small hole which meant it was difficult to use something to hook on the oposite side of the pin to pull it out, however using a long rod from the diametrically oposite hole in the block it was easy to feed the rod past the conrod (as the other piston was at TDC) line it up with the inside edge of the pin and then knock them through. Once we got this sussed it took about 5 minutesd to remove all 5 pistons, obviously with the head off!

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

Err that should read all 4 pistons...doh...

UkLegacyT

thanks for the further info tim. would certainly be easier driving them through from the other hole.

however, as subaru designers cause inconvenience for a laugh, i havent got a 14mm hex key to get the plugs out, and wanted to inspect the damage tonight, so i went about splitting the block.

well, it isnt having none of it. all the bolts and long spline head bolts are all out, hidden ones too, and it just wont separate [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

however, the front cambelt toothed pulley is still on the crank, as it wont budge either. i have removed all the bolts from the section behind it, and that is loose, so that isnt holding the block together....but, are there any more bolts hidden behind this plate??
saying that, not even the rear of the block is separating at all, how much stick can these blocks take from a lump hammer and block of wood?

cheers
ian <-- dont know what that smile is doing there

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

All models have the holes to remove the pistons/gudgeon pins. Various different pin designs have different size holes in em. Some have a straight 12mm hole ( early cars like legacy/wrx ) Some have a straight 10mm hole, and others have tapered holes,which are about 8mm at the thinnest point.
Overall, not a difficult job., just dont drop the No3 piston circlip into the engine whilst removing/re-fitting. More of a problem, if you leave the sump on, then u will have to remove it.

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 7/24/2002 10:49:22 PM]

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

You have to remove the oil pump before you can split the block, which is behind the timing belt pulley. It should seperate with a little persuasion from a blunt instrument, taking care not to damage any mating surfaces.
Oh, missed the bit about unbolting it... Did you get the 12mm bolt at the rear of the block, behind the flywheel, and the small 10mm one in the sump area?? Then the 12mm around the top edge of the block. Then approx 8 main bolts 12mm 12point headed ones?, on the outsode of the block, and inside the waterways??
After that, gently tap with a blunt instrument.. ( Beat the f**k out of it with something ) and voila, your engine is in a load of bits all over the floor.

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 7/24/2002 10:54:30 PM]

UkLegacyT

oil pump, you mean rearwards of the toothed pulley?

that pulley just wont budge, been persuading it for about 1hr tonight and have got fed up to be honest

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Spray a bit of WD40 around it then, and leave it overnight. When you actually do this, it does work like its supposed to. Then it should lever off. Take care not to damage it though if possible.
Yes, the oil pump is driven directly off the crankshaft, and sits directly behind the crank pulley, held on to the block, with NO gasket by about 6 or 8 M6, 10 mm headed bolts.

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 7/24/2002 10:58:20 PM]

UkLegacyT

will go and spray it now

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

If you haven't got a 14mm hex key, then try using a bolt with a 14mm head, and 2 nuts on the thread locked together (like you would to remove a stud) and hey presto you can use a 14mm socket to remove the hex key plugs

UkLegacyT

thanks again tim.

stevie turbo emailed with the same idea, dont know why i didnt think of it. should be easy, after all, there are bloody loadsa 14's on these engines

cheers