RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

I just got my PC back from a PC shop (PC was restarting over and over) and their diagnosis was faulty motherboard and memory (hard drive OK)

They then went into their "better to buy a new one - we can do them from £350 etc) pitch.

How expensive is it to replace a motherboard and memory (memory easy bit, just clips in I guess)

Its a 5 year old Advent, Pentium 4 etc - past its best and a new one might be needed, but if it can be sorted quite cheaply I am tempted to try.

PeteBrant

New board =£60
Gigabyte GA-EP43-DS3L Intel P43 (Socket 775) PCI-Express DDR2 Motherboard

New processor = £80
[url=http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CP-219-IN&groupid=701&catid=6&subcat=793&name=Intel%20Cor e%202%20Duo%20E7200%20LGA775%20'Wolfdale'%20%202.5 3GHz%20(1066FSB)%20-%20Retail[/url]

New memory = £30
GeIL 2GB (2x1GB) PC2-6400C4 800MHz Ultra Low Latency DDR2 Dual Channel Kit (GX22GB6400UDC))

Plus you'll need a new graphics card

£20 (Don't expect it to do anything fancy)

OcUK GeForce 8400 GS 256MB DDR2 HDTV/DVI (PCI-Express) - Retail



You will struggle to get hold of a 478 pin motherboard and old PC2100 memory, and even if you can ge tthem, then they will be relatively expenesive.


On top of that you may need a new PSU (you might get away with the HDD)

PeteBrant

If you want a direct replacment you can get a 478 motherboard here (I didn;t think you could still get them

P4I65G : Asrock P4I65G 478 OnBoard VGA DDR400 SATA LAN 8x AGP : Socket 478 Motherboards : novatech.co.uk

(£40)

And Memory

RAM-40/1G : 400MHz 184Pin 1GB PC3200 DDR RAM DIMM 2.5V 3.2Gb/Sec : DDR 400 - PC3200 : novatech.co.uk

£25 per GB

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Pete.

So I replace the motherboard (with a direct replacement) and memory - will the Hard Drive need anything done to it or will it work as was ?
Also - does the processor just clip on / off ?

Sorry - not that technical but I have lots of common sense !

PeteBrant

It's all pretty straight forward.

You take the heatsink off the processor (can need quite bit of force on older boards)

Unlatch the processor

Put the processor in the new motherboard

Put the heatink assembly on (You might want to add some heatsink compound before you do - A small amount spread very thinly will do)

Plug the RAM in, plug the PSU/HDD/Floppy drives in.

Power it up.

You may need to re-register Windows with microsoft. (personally I would be tempted to use the opportunity to do a clean install)

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

mmmm seems pretty straightforward - so I will give it a try (famous last words!)

Cheers.

PeteBrant

You have a computer that doesn't work now - What's the worst that can happen?

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Very true !

bioforger

iTrader: (1)

um never use force when removing the heatsink and you WILL need to re-apply thermal paste to the top of the CPU, after u have cleaned it. If you are using the same heatsink also clean that, and also put a thin patch on the bottom.

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

personally depending on what you use it for I would just spend about £200 on a new socket 775 mobo that has an agp slot as well as pci express (about £30 - £40), few gb of ram (can get 4gb for about £50 ddr2) and a quad core Q6600 processor for about £100 (inc vat)

PeteBrant

Good luck removing a socket 478 heatsink clip without using force

You only need to apply heatsink compound if the heatsink isn't using a thermal pad, which lots of the 478 units did.

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Dont think its using a pad - looks like paste to me.
Heatsink came of very easily - no real force was needed.

chrisUK300

iTrader: (10)

Intel Pentium Dual Core E2180 2.0GHz - Asus P5V DDR2 - Corsair 4GB PC5300 DDR2 KIT Bundle - AWD-IT.CO.UK

Seems cheap enough? That motherboard is PCI so add a cheapo graphics card and your away

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

With that direct replacement motherboard, the connectors for the monitor, network cables etc look in slightly different positions - so may not match with the PC casing - is that easy to sort ?

PeteBrant

When you buy a motherboard, it comes with a blanking plate for the the rear connections.

You just rip out the one that is in you case and replace it with the one supplied with the motherboard.

PeteBrant

Good stuff I have come across some with clips that have roughly the same amount of tension as the clifton suspension bridge

Main thing to remember with heatsink compound is not to over do it - You only need a very small amount.

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Well motherboard and memory ordered for delivery tomorrow.

Guys - just leave all your mobile phone numbers for that 24hr technical support I need....

bioforger

iTrader: (1)

meh done those loads of times, finesse is required not brute force

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Well I replaced motherboard and memory and........PC wont switch on ! LOL dunno what I have done.
Must be power related (stating obvious) as even if other bits were wrong it would still power up ??

Any suggestions - simply no power up when I press the on button on front of PC and I thought I had done / replaced everything spot on.

The only thing that I wasn't sure of is that coming from my HD there is a connector thats 14 pin (2 rows of 7 with one blanked) that on the old motherboard slotted onto a port - on the new board there seems no place for it and in the manual it makes no mention just saying connect to power supply and motherboad with the ribbon connectors, which I have done - so that wire is just loose.

PeteBrant

The obvious one is that you have wired the power switch up tot he Mobo incorectly - Either into the wrong connecotr on the MoBo or, the incorrect polarity.

Recheck all connections

With regards to the HDD, you should have an IDE cable (an 80 pin connector) going from HDD to Motherboard, and a 4 pin connection the PSU, that's it. (I am assuming that you have an IDE drive, not a SATA drive base don the age of the machine - SATA connectors are much much smaller and have 7 connections)


The motherboard should have a large 20 pin connection to the PSU and a square 4 way connector going to the PSU.

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

I think I might know the prob.

Immediately behind the "on" button there is a wire coming out (grey) with a black 14 pin (2 rows of 7) connector with one pin blanked off.

There seems to be no-where for it to connect to on the motherboard (on the old board there was a slot for it called "HDD LED, ACPI LED, PWR whoch was right next to where the IDE 1 & 2 slots.

So I am assuming this controls on/off and lights for on and HD working ?


I think if I could find a home for this then I would be ok, but scoured the motherboard and seems no place for it ?

PeteBrant

Ahh ok, It seems it has put the power switch/LED/HDD LED all on one connector, Which is a bit of an odd way to do it.

On the mobo there will be a header with a row of pins on it (usually down at the bottom - the opposite end of the the processor )- usually you have 2 pin sockets for the HDD LED etc that plug in here, but your 14 way *should* fit.

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Bugger I dont think it will:

Motherboard Slot:

0000
00000

Connector:

000000+
0000000

The "+" is blanked.

Cant make it fit.

Cant believe I got this far and final connection wont work !

PeteBrant

Cant you line it up with the "+" and two connectons hanging off the end?

Thats the way I would try.

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Tried that but the CPU fan connector is tight up against it so no room.

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Sorry not CPU fan - the fan thats built onto the casing.

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

post a pic or let us know what motherboard it is

PeteBrant

The CPU fan connector right up against it you say? That's odd. The CPU fan connector should generalyl be quite near the CPU at the "top" , and the front panel connections should be at the "bottom"

http://www.asrock.com/manual/P4i65G.pdf

So if you go to page 9 of this manual, the front panel connector is item "17" and the CPU fan connector is item "5" - As you can see - opposite ends of the board.

Is it the chasis speaker header that is getting in the way? (item 18)

bioforger

iTrader: (1)

rtfm

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Ahhhh connected it with just the top row of connectors and it powers up........but exactly the same happens as before - keeps re-booting.

Difference now is that I can select safe mode, safe mode with networking, safe mode with command prompt or last known configuration with the keyboard but which ever I choose it just reboots.

I hate computers.