The chips a 1.8 Northwood P4

1st'ly im going to get 550w PSU at the moment its 300w which apprently isnt enoght power. What else?

How much is the water cooling havent seen it on any sites.
thinking of running it to 2.4ghz?

Si

 

What element of your P4 system don't you think is fast enough??

How much memory are you running, what graphics card, what mainboard, SCSI or ide bus?,
These are all things I would think about upgrading for better performance 1st before thinking about up-clocking your system.

 

STFW

 

Oh....

There are inherent risks when performing any overclocking exercise, such as long term CPU degradation, serious heat issues and a chance that AGP or PCI peripheral cards can be damaged. Also, many manufacturers' warranties may be voided if you attempt to overclock your system. Users need to understand and accept the inherent risks before attempting any form of overclocking

 

p4 1.8 North Wood

Abit Th7 II raid

creative Geforce 2 Ti
2* 256mb RD ram (Soon to be 1024)

Anymore Details?

 

Sorry just to add, My CPU will be the same as the 2.0 ! just the mupltipliers etc will be different wont they?

 

lol @ ChrisB STFW .

 

Where could i purchase that in the uk! its american, but help full that site

 

goto www.yahoo.co.uk. click on UK Only and type in your search. eazi enuf?

 

typical cockney

ta

 

check out some of these...

overclockers
chillblast
overclock

also check out some of their affiliates links as well.

 

cheers this time ive checked out the link off tom's hardware, could be interesting.

has anyone water cooled?

My dads not convinced, they use this at work to cool the lasers he said it tends to leak alot

Si

 

nothing on any them

 

For the cost of buying the water cooling rig and setting it, I'd expect it to be cheaper to sell your 1.8Ghz CPU and just buy a 2.2Ghz.

Of course, whilst STFWing, you'll have found that Intel will launch the 2.8Ghz P4 this quarter.

 

Think my mobo can only take 2.4

 

Could you give me a rough price mate i thinking £150ish maybe give take £50

What my dads said whats happens when a pipe link breaks under the pressure?

Im thinking im just gonna do CPU and chipset.

what did toms do so wrong??

Si

 

The kit to go for would be the Innovatek one. The P4 version is only just managing to filter into the country now. The current kit that is available is for the Athlons really, The P4 version simply has a revised bracket. The Innovatek is generally seen as being the best and is good for the money, as these things are priced anyway!!.
Unless you are planning on running the Rad outside the case, you will need ideally to be running a full tower, as the rads on these are approx 12cmx12cmx12cm, not inclucing the pipes and fan. My Maxxxpert rad is currently about to be sealed in heat insulating foam spray to isolate it a bit from the internal case temps and vice-versa. Just have to figure out what spray can do that.........
The price for the Athlon kit version is currently about £160+postage.

As for the pressure, I can understand your Dad's concerns, but the pressure is nothing like the sort of pressure that you would see in an industrial watercooling environment. Remember, these setups are basically running on a fish tank waterpump, so you get the idea........

To get an idea of the Innovatek stuff, look at the following:

http://www6.tomshardware.com/cpu/02q1/020117/index.html

http://www6.tomshardware.com/cpu/02q1/020102/index.html

http://www.water-cooling.com/reviews...vatek_set2.htm

http://www.overclockers.com/articles373/


I am far too drunk to be talking thic much sense, so I shall go now

Cheers,

Nick

 

Doh, approx12cmx6cmx12cm even.....
Also, the only current supplier of the Innovatek kit is:

http://www.over-clock.co.uk but Im don't believe that they are recieving stock for another 10 days.....


This is the kit that once fully installed will shortly be driving my 2.2 Northwood to 3Ghz

Cheers,


Nick

 

cheers mate im doing it

Have u had any problems?

what happens in a leakage

i read distillwd water wont kill circuits

Si

 

I still wouldn't bet on distilled water saving your ***.... I haven't come across a single leak yet in my experience so far, but I am not known for undertightening things! The main thing is to build and cut the piping to length, run overnight with the coolers held approx in place and short pin 4 and 6 on your ATX power connector to make the supply think that the Mobo in on. This is a pretty good test. Be careful with shorting pin 4 and 6 tho, make sure that in no way that it touches the case. I had mine shorted yesterday and knocked the case by mistake. Poof, 1 blown PSU, the end if the cable touched the case and earthed!
The water pressure isn't that great really and the wider the piping, the less the chance of leakage with these things.

Hehe.

 

Wheres pin 4 and 6 though???

Cheers it'd be going on my P4, ive got a full tower but its got all my hard drives in the top.

Going to have to seriously plan, but if i get the hard drive coolers, then they go in the 5 1/2" bays!

Thanks
Si

 

I don't advise getting the HD coolers if you are talking about watercooling. I am actually just water cooling the cpu only. The Northbridge on the Motherboard produces a lot less heat than the CPU, so by running the water over the top of this, you will not really be doing it any favours. Just stick to the heatsink on the northbidge and add a little quiet fan onto it if necessary. The HD cooling blocks are not all that good tbh. You should still be running case fans in your machine, just to get the best out of the system, they should nice and quiet. My tower runs 5 Papst 80mm fans and you can barely tell that there are any on.

That Abit board is a good one and I believe that when you do ramp the FSB to 133Mhz, you can drop the AGP multiplier to 2/4 and the PCI multiplier to 1/4, thus keeping all peripherals within normal operating parameters. I think that the same applies to the RIMMS as their bus is independant to the others.

Now, as for jumpering pin 4 and 6, If you look at the ATX power connector, you will see the hook on one side that keeps it on the motherboard. Turn the connector so that the side with the hook is on top and looking directly at the pins, the top left pin is pin1. Pin 4 is the fourth one along from the left and 6 is 2 to the right of it almost directly under the hook. Make sense?

Cheers,


Nick

 

This should help to give you a better idea:



3.5-5.25 Drive brackets are easy to get hold of mate. I also run my drives on brackets in the 5.25 area of my tower.

Cheers,

Nick

 

but how did u short then out lol??

I had problems with the board, ABit TH7 II raid
Id didnt like the Northwood processor to start with but BIOS upgrade sorted it.

Im thinking chipset, CPU and Maybe graphics.

Im running 2 * 8cm in top case, 1 9cm over the chip set and CPU and the Intel heat sink.

This is my case


Installing could be fun the tops very very full!

Si

 

Nooooooooooo. Don't do the graphics unles you have to, CPU and chipset deffo over doing the GPU. Your little 1.8 is actually going to get pretty toasty running at 2.4, I really wouldn't recommend doing the graphics card too unless you actually need to, as the warmer the water gets, the less effect it has on cooling the CPU, the hotter the cpu gets and the less likely the CPU is to run stable. Shame the ventilation at the front looks a little weak

Here is a preliminary picture of my setup:



As you can see, the watercooling isn't in this photo, but it gives you an idea of the 5 silent Papst fans

 

Well at least that's what I can say that I am doing, as have a 2.2Ghz northwood CPU
Also Chris, Si is not going to have the multiplier issues with his AGP, PCI etc as I stated earlier with this particular board.
I can understand your point of view, as it is now a slightly slower CPU, but to each his own.... Whatever makes them happy etc. I am just trying to help him do it right

Cheers,

Nick

 

just looking at the picture, the airs blowing accross the case, so from right to left, how did you attach them to the side's what im wondering!! Drill and blot into front of the case??

Im just think it'd look quite good using water! Not gonna over clock it, need PSU 1st as mines only 300, i was told supposed to have 350w at least.

its just a little project over the summer really!

Si

 

You could just about get away with aircooling your 1.8@2.4ghz, but it will be bloody noisy! Here is the front of my chassis:



With the top two, there was already a perforated section there which I merely cut out. The bottom section I pretty well made. Rock solid

 

do you not run it with any side on?

Gonna get me old man on the case hes the Electrical geek

My other problem looking at that is, have you some sort of socked, because im runnig out of connections to power them all! if u get what i mean

Si

 

Fair enough Nick, I had you down as a speed freak anyway

Maybe I'm just lazy at the end of the day? I'll take the easy overclocks but can't be arsed to have to work at it.

What chassis is that by the way?