Rotary polishing
#1
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Rotary polishing
I have widetrack sti on wr blue, there is light swirls all over although a good polish and black hole glaze hides most of them. I have recently invested in a rotary polisher for a repaint project i am working on but only use g3 on a hard pad. What's a good pad and polish for removing swirls I don't want to remove to much paint. I was thinking maybe scholl s17 with a soft pad but any advice welcomed before I start.
#3
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Always more risk involved using a rotary than a DA especially to somebody with little or no experience. Handy to have some depth readings taken before you start if you're unsure on the cars paint history
I'd try something along the lines of a Lake Country green pad with Menzerna PF2400. That usually works as a very good one stage.
With it being a rotary ALWAYS keep the pad moving. 4 pea sized amounts of compound to load the pad, (Three after the pad has been loaded) spread on number 1 and then up the speed to 3-4 to break the compound down, take your time, and don't rush. You should be working a 18" square section at a time no more. Once the compound has reached it's flash point (gone clear) back the speed to to 1-2 to refine.
Wipe off the excess compound with a new microfibre.
Stand back and admire your work.
Don't forget to clay and remove any fallout before any machine polishing as if not any contaminants will get onto the pad and subsequently be worked into the paint. Also once finished be sure to apply whatever sealant or wax you choose to use,
I'd try something along the lines of a Lake Country green pad with Menzerna PF2400. That usually works as a very good one stage.
With it being a rotary ALWAYS keep the pad moving. 4 pea sized amounts of compound to load the pad, (Three after the pad has been loaded) spread on number 1 and then up the speed to 3-4 to break the compound down, take your time, and don't rush. You should be working a 18" square section at a time no more. Once the compound has reached it's flash point (gone clear) back the speed to to 1-2 to refine.
Wipe off the excess compound with a new microfibre.
Stand back and admire your work.
Don't forget to clay and remove any fallout before any machine polishing as if not any contaminants will get onto the pad and subsequently be worked into the paint. Also once finished be sure to apply whatever sealant or wax you choose to use,
#4
Always more risk involved using a rotary than a DA especially to somebody with little or no experience. Handy to have some depth readings taken before you start if you're unsure on the cars paint history
I'd try something along the lines of a Lake Country green pad with Menzerna PF2400. That usually works as a very good one stage.
With it being a rotary ALWAYS keep the pad moving. 4 pea sized amounts of compound to load the pad, (Three after the pad has been loaded) spread on number 1 and then up the speed to 3-4 to break the compound down, take your time, and don't rush. You should be working a 18" square section at a time no more. Once the compound has reached it's flash point (gone clear) back the speed to to 1-2 to refine.
Wipe off the excess compound with a new microfibre.
Stand back and admire your work.
Don't forget to clay and remove any fallout before any machine polishing as if not any contaminants will get onto the pad and subsequently be worked into the paint. Also once finished be sure to apply whatever sealant or wax you choose to use,
I'd try something along the lines of a Lake Country green pad with Menzerna PF2400. That usually works as a very good one stage.
With it being a rotary ALWAYS keep the pad moving. 4 pea sized amounts of compound to load the pad, (Three after the pad has been loaded) spread on number 1 and then up the speed to 3-4 to break the compound down, take your time, and don't rush. You should be working a 18" square section at a time no more. Once the compound has reached it's flash point (gone clear) back the speed to to 1-2 to refine.
Wipe off the excess compound with a new microfibre.
Stand back and admire your work.
Don't forget to clay and remove any fallout before any machine polishing as if not any contaminants will get onto the pad and subsequently be worked into the paint. Also once finished be sure to apply whatever sealant or wax you choose to use,
My process with any car i detail is as follows:
1) snow foam
2) rinse
3) shampoo
4) rinse
5) clay bar with lube (not that type of lube )
6) rinse
7) shampoo
8) rinse
9) wipe down with a plush micro fibre cloth
10) would recommend using a DA rather than a rotary for this stage as you are less likely to damage the clear coat on the car... with a DA and cutting hex pad, three pea size blobs of GTechniq P1 nano compound polish (available for around £8 a bottle - will last around three cars)
video of this product here:
11) do around three passes on the car's paintwork working in zig zag patterns - do around half a panel at a time (yes this will be slightly time consuming but deco worth it)
12) wipe down the paintwork with an IPA (basically will pick up any excess dust from the nano composite polish)
13) apply wax and alloy to cure
14) polish to your liking
15) admire the beading!
Hope this helps...any questions just ask...always happy to help
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