removing polish from cracks
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removing polish from cracks
I have a little problem which I hope someone could help me. Here goes. From polishing my Impreza, residue is sitting in all the cracks, seals around the car and on a DBM coloured car, it sticks out like a sore thumb. Even after I have washed the car the residue is still there. These polishes that I have used is AG SRP and Chemical Guys Finial Polish. What can I use do to remove this.
My other problem, well its not really a problem just a little unsure. I have the Jeff Acrylic set and after I have used the polish one I then use the Acrylic jet and Glos. Do I just spray on and wipe off with a clean MF cloth? or do I spread around with a clean MF and the wipe off with another clean mf cloth? Do I leave it to 'cure' on the paint at all. That goes for the prime as well.
Cheers
My other problem, well its not really a problem just a little unsure. I have the Jeff Acrylic set and after I have used the polish one I then use the Acrylic jet and Glos. Do I just spray on and wipe off with a clean MF cloth? or do I spread around with a clean MF and the wipe off with another clean mf cloth? Do I leave it to 'cure' on the paint at all. That goes for the prime as well.
Cheers
#3
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I have a little problem which I hope someone could help me. Here goes. From polishing my Impreza, residue is sitting in all the cracks, seals around the car and on a DBM coloured car, it sticks out like a sore thumb. Even after I have washed the car the residue is still there. These polishes that I have used is AG SRP and Chemical Guys Finial Polish. What can I use do to remove this.
Cheers
Cheers
JohnD
#4
To get into edges only to remove wax\polish residue I fold a clean MF into the crevice till its snug then using a back and forth movement to clear it normally does the trick. If it still aint shifting damp with the MF with some luke warm water.
Trick is to spread the polish\wax thinly especially leading up to the edges to avoid residue
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We tend to use the folded edge of MF towels sprayed with quick detailer to remove residues from seams and around aerials, etc. Brushes work okay in some areas, but as above, watch the bristles, as you can cause marring with them. With regards to the JEFFS products...
Start out by applying a basecoat of Prime Acrylic using the white side of the Lake Country German Applicator Pad; spritz the pad first with a light shot of Acrylic Glos, then apply and leave to cure for anything from 2 mins to 30 mins (my preference is to leave it for 5 mins then buff). Buff off this residue once dry with the blue Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel, using a spritz of Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. Then apply a coat of Acrylic Jett Trigger by spraying onto one of the coral Poorboys Deluxe Mega Towels, wiping over the panel, leaving 30 secs, and then buffing off with the other Poorboys Deluxe Mega Towel, again using a spritz of Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. Then simply add a fresh coat of Acrylic Jett Trigger every 6-8 weeks until the time comes to start over by claying again.
Start out by applying a basecoat of Prime Acrylic using the white side of the Lake Country German Applicator Pad; spritz the pad first with a light shot of Acrylic Glos, then apply and leave to cure for anything from 2 mins to 30 mins (my preference is to leave it for 5 mins then buff). Buff off this residue once dry with the blue Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel, using a spritz of Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. Then apply a coat of Acrylic Jett Trigger by spraying onto one of the coral Poorboys Deluxe Mega Towels, wiping over the panel, leaving 30 secs, and then buffing off with the other Poorboys Deluxe Mega Towel, again using a spritz of Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. Then simply add a fresh coat of Acrylic Jett Trigger every 6-8 weeks until the time comes to start over by claying again.
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PB,
Why the glos on the pad before applying the basecoat ?
Also,i tend to do the whole car with the trigger before buffing off,has always been okay to remove.Do you say 30 secs purely for the ease of removing ?
Why the glos on the pad before applying the basecoat ?
Also,i tend to do the whole car with the trigger before buffing off,has always been okay to remove.Do you say 30 secs purely for the ease of removing ?
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Of course, that goes without saying! If you're keen enough to post a query about it, then I'm sure you'll be careful when you detail ther car. Some care is required but an old , worn out toothbrush, costs nothing and is as effective as most. The trouble with some so called detailing brushes, is that they are too soft to flick out the residue. My car is Graphite black, so you know the problem I have with this!
JohnD
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We tend to use the folded edge of MF towels sprayed with quick detailer to remove residues from seams and around aerials, etc. Brushes work okay in some areas, but as above, watch the bristles, as you can cause marring with them. With regards to the JEFFS products...
Start out by applying a basecoat of Prime Acrylic using the white side of the Lake Country German Applicator Pad; spritz the pad first with a light shot of Acrylic Glos, then apply and leave to cure for anything from 2 mins to 30 mins (my preference is to leave it for 5 mins then buff). Buff off this residue once dry with the blue Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel, using a spritz of Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. Then apply a coat of Acrylic Jett Trigger by spraying onto one of the coral Poorboys Deluxe Mega Towels, wiping over the panel, leaving 30 secs, and then buffing off with the other Poorboys Deluxe Mega Towel, again using a spritz of Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. Then simply add a fresh coat of Acrylic Jett Trigger every 6-8 weeks until the time comes to start over by claying again.
Start out by applying a basecoat of Prime Acrylic using the white side of the Lake Country German Applicator Pad; spritz the pad first with a light shot of Acrylic Glos, then apply and leave to cure for anything from 2 mins to 30 mins (my preference is to leave it for 5 mins then buff). Buff off this residue once dry with the blue Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel, using a spritz of Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. Then apply a coat of Acrylic Jett Trigger by spraying onto one of the coral Poorboys Deluxe Mega Towels, wiping over the panel, leaving 30 secs, and then buffing off with the other Poorboys Deluxe Mega Towel, again using a spritz of Acrylic Glos to help loosen the residue if needs be. Then simply add a fresh coat of Acrylic Jett Trigger every 6-8 weeks until the time comes to start over by claying again.
Today, I set about cleaning my Impreza some 3 weeks over my monthly wash and wax routine....I know spank hand.
She was not that bad, just a bit grubby. So I did the usual and jack the car up place on axle stands and whack the wheels off...boy where these dirty. After I cleaned them I applied the PB wheel sealant.
Then got them pressure washer and gave the arhes and underside of the car a good blast to remove some of that road salt. Then I foamed and washed with the two bucket method as per the normal. The 'clean' water bucket was just a tad black
Dried the car; and then I re-read the instructs that PB so kindly posted (see above) on the Jeffs Acrylic kit. All went to plan and on and off very easily even though it was rather chilly. I was slightly dubious on applying this product, but after using it I fell in love with it as the ease of application was easy.
Then I did the windows with AG Glass Polish, hovered the inside dressed the plastics with Natural look dressing and then I dressed the tyres with blackfire long lasting tyre gel. I felt like drinking the stuff... chocolate liquor / Tia Maria Liquor flavor.
total time took me about 5 hours. No process pics as you have seen them all before and when I had put the alloys back on it was dark, so no finished shots. If it is nice tomorrow, I will take some.
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