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Old 04 April 2007, 12:40 PM
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DarrenSTI
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Default Swirl Marks

I have a few light swirl marks on my car, and although using a clay bar and NXT Gen polish has helped a little some still remain.

So what product should I invest in, and what is the process of applying it etc?

Thanks
Daz.
Old 04 April 2007, 11:24 PM
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Scudy23
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If done by hand m8 you can use AG Super Resin Polish,this should mask the swirls,getting rid of swirls by hand is gonna be hard work because your arm wont move nowhere near as fast as a machine.....lol
Old 05 April 2007, 03:13 AM
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ive personally just moved over from using meguiars polishes etc, as i found them a little greasy and hard work to buff off. when using the super resin polish, i notice the colour and shine come out, but no swirl marks seem to disappear, even after two polishes. probably th hand thing, but if you tried a machine polisher, you may gain better results.

andy
Old 05 April 2007, 10:14 AM
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I have polished the car using NXT Gen Polish them polished off using a mains operated buffer, but not since using the Clay bar, maybe it will be different this time round.

But you think AG Super resin polish may be slightly better
Old 05 April 2007, 10:17 AM
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have aread of this mate, it might help

Swirl Removal : Basics - Detailing World
Old 05 April 2007, 11:36 AM
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On Subaru paint, swirl removal by hand is best done with Menzerna Intensive Polish, applied using the white side of a German Pad. Here's a before and after shot of a P1 panel treated with this product...

Before



After



Old 05 April 2007, 12:35 PM
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Polished Bliss:- thats not a name I've seen in the shops, wear am I likely to find it please?, can it be brought through you?

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Old 05 April 2007, 01:21 PM
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Yes, we are the only UK importer for this range. Here's the relevant links...

Menzerna Intensive Polish

Ultimate German Applicator Pad

Old 27 April 2007, 09:43 PM
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Triggaaar
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The Menzerna Intensive Polish seems quite :blush: intensive - if using Blackfire products, would it be a good idea to go from the RD3 to Blackfire's Gloss Enhancing Polish, or would you need to use a Menzerna Final Finish Polish as well?
Old 28 April 2007, 09:10 AM
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Be careful, don't confuse Intensive Polish with Intensive Polish PO85RD3.02, as they are very different animals. The polish I advocate for hand use on most harder paint cars (including Scoobies) is this one...



Menzerna Intensive Polish

...whereas for machine use this version is better, and offers more cut...



Menzerna Intensive Polish (PO85RD3.02)

Old 28 April 2007, 09:26 AM
  #11  
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Will Scratch X have the same effect as this? Or is this better?
Is it easy to apply etc?
Will it work on any colour surface? i.e Black & WR Blue?
Sorry for so many questions.

Best Regards

Anthony
Old 28 April 2007, 07:49 PM
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Scratch X is pants IMO - stick with the above - as thats what I use
Old 28 April 2007, 07:56 PM
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The stuff he recommended is awsome mate (machine polich stuff, not tried the hand polish), I couldnt belive just how good it actually is!
Old 29 April 2007, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Polished Bliss
Be careful, don't confuse Intensive Polish with Intensive Polish
How silly of me

Reading the details on the polish: "it is often possible to go straight from compounding to adding wax or sealant protection without an intervening polishing step. In cases where an intervening polishing step is required (often on darker coloured cars), the amount of additional polishing required is significantly reduced".

Well I have a dark coloured car (DBM), so from the above, sometimes it will not be possible to go from the intensive polish to wax/sealent. In these cases, where an intervening polishing step is required, will Blackfire's Gloss Enhancing Polish be suitable, or is that too much of a glaze?

Thanks

Last edited by Triggaaar; 29 April 2007 at 01:53 AM.
Old 29 April 2007, 09:52 AM
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rcwhite
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these are the steps i will be taking after my wash and clay.my car is sti mettalic black. also i will be doing it by hand.

Menzerna Intensive Polish

Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection

Blackfire Wet Diamond Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax

german applicator pads will be used
Old 29 April 2007, 10:36 AM
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Triggaaar
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Have you tried those steps before? I guess it depends if you're just going over the car with the polish, to help clean it, or if you're using elbow grease to remove swirl marks, in which case you could get marring without using a finishing polish.
Old 29 April 2007, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rcwhite
these are the steps i will be taking after my wash and clay.my car is sti mettalic black. also i will be doing it by hand.

Menzerna Intensive Polish

Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection

Blackfire Wet Diamond Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax

german applicator pads will be used

IMO after the intensive polish stage I use blackfire gloss enhansing polish (it has no cut but gives you cracking gloss then use the rest of your steps
Old 29 April 2007, 04:27 PM
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rcwhite
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to be honest i am a little worried about marring never used any off the products that i am using not to sure how i can avoid it .. is it just a case of really working the polich or the opposte and being easy with it . suppose it one off the problems of hand polishing your car
Old 29 April 2007, 07:35 PM
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Triggaaar
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Originally Posted by rcwhite
to be honest i am a little worried about marring never used any off the products that i am using not to sure how i can avoid it .. is it just a case of really working the polich or the opposte and being easy with it . suppose it one off the problems of hand polishing your car
If you want to get swirls out, then you will have to work the polish (and this may not be possible by hand). Marring is not a bad thing, it just means you need a finishing polish to make it all look sweet. It is not a problem of hand polishing, you can get marring using a machine polisher if the compound/polish you use has a lot of cut.
Old 29 April 2007, 07:54 PM
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so if marring does become a problem my last to steps using black fire products will sort this out . so it is best to work the polish as hard as possible
Old 29 April 2007, 08:14 PM
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Triggaaar
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Originally Posted by rcwhite
so if marring does become a problem my last to steps using black fire products will sort this out
No. If marring does occur (using the intensive polish, with a cut of 5/10) you will need to then use a polish with less cut - not sure which one though, I'm asking the same question there.

so it is best to work the polish as hard as possible
What are you trying to do? It's a bit long, but the info on the Polished Bliss site is really good (see sticky at top of forum for links).

If you have swirls, and you don't like them, you have 2 choices:
1) - remove them with a compound (or intensive polish). This is hard by hand, but if the swirls are light, it's achievable.
2) - hide them with a glaze, which will fill the small scratches that you see. This is easier by hand than trying to remove them, and also won't wear your clear coat (that covers your paint), but it will need doing each time you polish the car (not each time you seal/wax the car).

The last 2 steps you intend to take are both protection steps, as opposed to polish or glaze steps, and if the underlying surface is good, they will produce good results. But as they are protection steps, they will not remove any marring (if it's there - and unless you are really working the polish, it probably won't be). What colour is your car?

Last edited by Triggaaar; 29 April 2007 at 08:17 PM.
Old 29 April 2007, 09:28 PM
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No need to worry too much guys, on harder paints (such as on your cars) the Intensive Polish breaks down perfectly by hand, and I have never yet seen marring from using it on Subaru paint. If marring did occur then Final Polish II would be required (again using the white side of a German Pad), as the Gloss Enhancing Polish is indeed more of a glaze with less cut. Working the Intensive Polish hard enough by hand isn't difficult, but it is tiring. I use four/five 5p sized blobs on the pad per 18" square area; I dab over the area to spread, then work in with firm pressure in straight lines (in all directions). I usually work each section for 2-3 mins until the residue goes clear, then buff and inspect (and repeat if needs be).
Old 29 April 2007, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Polished Bliss
No need to worry too much guys, on harder paints (such as on your cars) the Intensive Polish breaks down perfectly by hand, and I have never yet seen marring from using it on Subaru paint.
How does the hard paint on our cars affect the effectiveness of hand polishing to remove swirls? - eg, or your website you say "If you have any defects worse than minor swirl marks you will not remove them working by hand".

I use four/five 5p sized blobs on the pad per 18" square area; I dab over the area to spread, then work in with firm pressure in straight lines (in all directions). I usually work each section for 2-3 mins until the residue goes clear, then buff and inspect (and repeat if needs be).
That's really useful, thanks. I guess if us beginners try that, and the swirls aren't coming out, then they're too deep to fix by hand, and having lessened their severity, we should glaze over them.

You say you work the polish in with firm pressure: is fast speed, or firm pressure more important, or should we try for both?

Thanks
Old 30 April 2007, 08:42 PM
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How does hard paint affect hand polishing? It makes it very hard work! That said, the good news is the chances of causing marring are slight to non-existent. It is possible to vastly improve swirled Scooby paint by hand, but it's going to take a while, and require vast reserves of stamina! Some folk get round this by doing parts of the car in stages, rather than trying to do it all in one session. Pressure is the key to breaking down the abrasives properly, but the amount of work done also counts, so you can either go fast and do each section properly in 2-3 mins, or go slower and take longer to achieve the same result in 4-5 mins. However, being realistic, if you have anything more than light to moderate swirls, chances are you won't fully remove them working by hand, and glazing is a viable alternative that works well. The best glaze we sell, with most hiding power, is Menzerna Finihing Touch Glaze. That said, the P1 pictus I osted abve show that dramatic improvements can be made with a little hard work.
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