Hi my car still cleans up to a nice shine however if you run your hand along the doors it feels like a brillow pad, heavily pitted in tar etc.

Can someone please recommend me a product/tar remover etc thats gona solve my head ache.

Many thanks

 

White spirit . .

 

Thanks mate it never even dawned on me, especially when ive only ever used it to remove paint off brushes and would of assumed it would of been too corrosive, but thank you il head off to hardware later and give it a go.

Cheers

 

its the main ingredients in a very popular tar remover that is on the shelves at 4 or 5 times the price of white spirits, it will obviously remove any LSP but any would.
hth

 

Thank you very helpful cheers

 

Clay bar is the secret to removing heavy tar, bilt hamber clay is the best and easiest to use!

Have a look on YouTube to see how it works.

 

+1 for the clay bar then polish followed by wax

 

Alrite cheers il check out some vids in a bit

 

Always clay AFTER removing fallout for iron and tar. By using a clay bar to remove heavy deposits you 1 run the risk of marring the paintwork by excessive usage and 2 ruin the clay bar a lot quicker.

 

So it's best to use autoglym tar/glue remover first then clay bar after? am I right in thinking this bodski??

 

Yes, something like carpro - trix, valet pro - dragons breath or iron x... would probably be better than autoglym

 

Is it safe to buy one of the products off ebay?

 

Tar and glue remover 1st. Rinse well and don't let it dry. Iron remover, exactly the same principal then clay.

Ebay is ok as long as it's a reputable seller. If not use Polished Bliss or Clean Your Car

 

A local AG detailer here told me he had been to a AG training course where they taught them to allow the tar remover to soak in for a couple of minutes before removing, instead of rubbing it off immediately; it does work better that way.

 

when you spray it on the tar will melt and run off, DONT let it dry !

 

I clay bar'd my car yesterday, it pulled almost all of tar and grime that was stuck in the paintwork out. Left side of the picture was after just a wash, and the right side had been clayed also. Would recommend it.

 

Carpro TarX for tar removal but you may also need a fall out remover like Carpro Ironx

If you just clay then you will cause damage to the paint.

 

WD40 works to remove tar too.

 

Does it!!! I've got plenty of it aswell

 

But contains silicone so if you ever need paintwork your bodyshop may well run into problems

 

bit of petrol on a cloth works well... some say Coke too

 

yeah but the price of coke per gram is more then white spirits . . .

 

Id end up drinking the coke and forget to clean haha

 

Had a new Autoglym rep roll in at work and I bought a gallon of their trade tar and adhesive remover and it gets a thumbs up from me http://www.autoglymprofessional.com/...hesive-remover

I'm not sure if its the same as the retail; I've used the retail "intensive tar remover" before, but it seemed to be more hard work.

I think the key differnence is with the trade stuff is that I decanted into a sprayer and misted it on then waited a bit (then spray some more on on the bad areas), whereas the retail stuff you have to apply it with a cloth.

It didn't seem to matter if it had slightly dried as the tar was still soft enough to wipe off. The fact that I now have 5 litres of it as opposed to 400ml means I can be much more liberal with it.

All my cars were seriously plastered with it (more tar on the cars than on the roads ) and it made light work....it would have took ages with the claybar.

Now AG tar remover used as a lube for the claybar maybe worth a try next time.

 

I have been using clay bar but your right it is hard work, especially when your right,more tar on the car than road lol

 

that's good to know as I've just bought a gallon of that. I was using Autosmart Tardis prior which was incredible

 

Why cant i get hold of any!!!! 👎👎👎

 

as a professional detailer i wouldn't really go down the Tar remover route unless clay simply won't shift it. However I would recommend Gtechniq W7 if you must but i'd make sure I wiped the area down afterwards with a cleaning product and don't spray it directly on to the bodywork. Spray it on to a microfibre cloth and then work the area

 

Tar and Iron remover BEFORE clay always. Never the other way round

Clay will always run the highest risk or marring the paintwork no matter what grade it is.

 

Also nothing at all wrong with spraying directly onto paintwork. You'd want to steer clear of getting it on exposed dark trim pieces and obviously not let it dry.

Once it has started to loosen the deposits you'll see the tar beginning to melt, this is when you gently rub with a clean microfibre, never before