Tar remover
Hi my car still cleans up to a nice shine however if you run your hand along the doors it feels like a brillow pad, heavily pitted in tar etc.
Can someone please recommend me a product/tar remover etc thats gona solve my head ache. Many thanks |
White spirit . .
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Thanks mate it never even dawned on me, especially when ive only ever used it to remove paint off brushes and would of assumed it would of been too corrosive, but thank you il head off to hardware later and give it a go.
Cheers |
Originally Posted by bugeyedom
(Post 11818892)
Thanks mate it never even dawned on me, especially when ive only ever used it to remove paint off brushes and would of assumed it would of been too corrosive, but thank you il head off to hardware later and give it a go.
Cheers hth |
Thank you very helpful cheers
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Clay bar is the secret to removing heavy tar, bilt hamber clay is the best and easiest to use!
Have a look on YouTube to see how it works. |
Originally Posted by aarmstrong
(Post 11819208)
Clay bar is the secret to removing heavy tar, bilt hamber clay is the best and easiest to use!
Have a look on YouTube to see how it works. |
Alrite cheers il check out some vids in a bit :)
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Originally Posted by aarmstrong
(Post 11819208)
Clay bar is the secret to removing heavy tar, bilt hamber clay is the best and easiest to use!
Have a look on YouTube to see how it works. |
Originally Posted by B0DSKI
(Post 11819333)
Always clay AFTER removing fallout for iron and tar. By using a clay bar to remove heavy deposits you 1 run the risk of marring the paintwork by excessive usage and 2 ruin the clay bar a lot quicker.
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Originally Posted by ZANY
(Post 11819358)
So it's best to use autoglym tar/glue remover first then clay bar after? am I right in thinking this bodski??
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Is it safe to buy one of the products off ebay?
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Originally Posted by ZANY
(Post 11819358)
So it's best to use autoglym tar/glue remover first then clay bar after? am I right in thinking this bodski??
Ebay is ok as long as it's a reputable seller. If not use Polished Bliss or Clean Your Car |
A local AG detailer here told me he had been to a AG training course where they taught them to allow the tar remover to soak in for a couple of minutes before removing, instead of rubbing it off immediately; it does work better that way.
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Originally Posted by hedgecutter
(Post 11822258)
A local AG detailer here told me he had been to a AG training course where they taught them to allow the tar remover to soak in for a couple of minutes before removing, instead of rubbing it off immediately; it does work better that way.
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I clay bar'd my car yesterday, it pulled almost all of tar and grime that was stuck in the paintwork out. Left side of the picture was after just a wash, and the right side had been clayed also. Would recommend it.
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Carpro TarX for tar removal but you may also need a fall out remover like Carpro Ironx
If you just clay then you will cause damage to the paint. |
WD40 works to remove tar too.
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Originally Posted by alcazar
(Post 11824175)
WD40 works to remove tar too.
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Originally Posted by alcazar
(Post 11824175)
WD40 works to remove tar too.
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bit of petrol on a cloth works well... some say Coke too
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Originally Posted by salsa-king
(Post 11824715)
bit of petrol on a cloth works well... some say Coke too
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Id end up drinking the coke and forget to clean haha
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Originally Posted by hedgecutter
(Post 11822258)
A local AG detailer here told me he had been to a AG training course where they taught them to allow the tar remover to soak in for a couple of minutes before removing, instead of rubbing it off immediately; it does work better that way.
Had a new Autoglym rep roll in at work and I bought a gallon of their trade tar and adhesive remover and it gets a thumbs up from me :thumb: http://www.autoglymprofessional.com/...hesive-remover I'm not sure if its the same as the retail; I've used the retail "intensive tar remover" before, but it seemed to be more hard work. I think the key differnence is with the trade stuff is that I decanted into a sprayer and misted it on then waited a bit (then spray some more on on the bad areas), whereas the retail stuff you have to apply it with a cloth. It didn't seem to matter if it had slightly dried as the tar was still soft enough to wipe off. The fact that I now have 5 litres of it as opposed to 400ml means I can be much more liberal with it. All my cars were seriously plastered with it (more tar on the cars than on the roads :rolleyes: ) and it made light work....it would have took ages with the claybar. Now AG tar remover used as a lube for the claybar maybe worth a try next time. :idea: |
I have been using clay bar but your right it is hard work, especially when your right,more tar on the car than road lol
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Originally Posted by ALi-B
(Post 11825569)
Had a new Autoglym rep roll in at work and I bought a gallon of their trade tar and adhesive remover and it gets a thumbs up from me :thumb: http://www.autoglymprofessional.com/...hesive-remover
I'm not sure if its the same as the retail; I've used the retail "intensive tar remover" before, but it seemed to be more hard work. I think the key differnence is with the trade stuff is that I decanted into a sprayer and misted it on then waited a bit (then spray some more on on the bad areas), whereas the retail stuff you have to apply it with a cloth. It didn't seem to matter if it had slightly dried as the tar was still soft enough to wipe off. The fact that I now have 5 litres of it as opposed to 400ml means I can be much more liberal with it. All my cars were seriously plastered with it (more tar on the cars than on the roads :rolleyes: ) and it made light work....it would have took ages with the claybar. Now AG tar remover used as a lube for the claybar maybe worth a try next time. :idea: that's good to know as I've just bought a gallon of that. I was using Autosmart Tardis prior which was incredible |
Why cant i get hold of any!!!! 👎👎👎
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as a professional detailer i wouldn't really go down the Tar remover route unless clay simply won't shift it. However I would recommend Gtechniq W7 if you must but i'd make sure I wiped the area down afterwards with a cleaning product and don't spray it directly on to the bodywork. Spray it on to a microfibre cloth and then work the area
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Originally Posted by Dan_Turism0
(Post 11835767)
as a professional detailer i wouldn't really go down the Tar remover route unless clay simply won't shift it. However I would recommend Gtechniq W7 if you must but i'd make sure I wiped the area down afterwards with a cleaning product and don't spray it directly on to the bodywork. Spray it on to a microfibre cloth and then work the area
Clay will always run the highest risk or marring the paintwork no matter what grade it is. |
Also nothing at all wrong with spraying directly onto paintwork. You'd want to steer clear of getting it on exposed dark trim pieces and obviously not let it dry.
Once it has started to loosen the deposits you'll see the tar beginning to melt, this is when you gently rub with a clean microfibre, never before |
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