Anybody Remapped a 2.5 STi?
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On standard internals that is.
Getting to the stage where mine requires a little more....
What sort of safe power would we be talking with just a remap?
Getting to the stage where mine requires a little more....
What sort of safe power would we be talking with just a remap?
Just had PPP fitted to my standard Spec D. Very pleased with it, fantastic bottom end aswell.
Downpipe, rear section, fuel pump and ECU. 316 bhp apparently, but not had it dyno'd.
Nice subtle burble, nothing too much which was what I wanted.
Downpipe, rear section, fuel pump and ECU. 316 bhp apparently, but not had it dyno'd.
Nice subtle burble, nothing too much which was what I wanted.
Yeah my 2.5 STi is on standard internals, Got full exhaust, filter, fuel pump, FMIC, Remap and bits ive forgot, and been running 377bhp 412lb/ft, Car done 55k miles, been mapped since it was near enough new!!!
If it breaks it breaks.
If it breaks it breaks.
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I think as long as you're prepared for the worst and have the money/ability to fix it if things go pear shaped then go for it. The same applies to any engine not just the chocolate 2.5

It's basically a back box, ECU flash and a fuel pump

http://www.prodrive.com/up/06MY%20STi%20PPP.pdf
Last edited by 53; Nov 7, 2013 at 08:43 PM. Reason: PPP link added :)
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
With remapping it is possible to make certain adjustments to try and limit the risk but its not possible to remove the risk of future piston damage.. the piston construction and what they are made from is such that the ringland can fail, its is however lucky that normally they causes no damage to the block... so its a case of new pistons and rings and therefore is relatively cheap to fix as engine rebuilds go... obviously there are exceptions to that.
remapped with a decat and panel filter and fuel pump (the standard pump can sometimes be upto the job, but its that sometimes thats worrying, its up to the job today but maybe not in a months time, therefore best to install an uprated pump) you should be looking at 350-360bhp and 390-400lb torque.
heres an example

Simon
The 2.5 would anecdotally appear to struggle with the stock output of 276bhp on the hawks and 296bhp on the hatches.
It's throwing caution to the wind running anymore than Subaru dare to (340bhp on the latest cars) in my limited but burned fingers experience.
Running it 100bhp higher and over 400lbft through standard bearings is asking for a completely new engine if you ask me, that's not just going to crack a piston when it inevitably goes to ****.
It's throwing caution to the wind running anymore than Subaru dare to (340bhp on the latest cars) in my limited but burned fingers experience.
Running it 100bhp higher and over 400lbft through standard bearings is asking for a completely new engine if you ask me, that's not just going to crack a piston when it inevitably goes to ****.
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The 2.5 would anecdotally appear to struggle with the stock output of 276bhp on the hawks and 296bhp on the hatches.
It's throwing caution to the wind running anymore than Subaru dare to (340bhp on the latest cars) in my limited but burned fingers experience.
Running it 100bhp higher and over 400lbft through standard bearings is asking for a completely new engine if you ask me, that's not just going to crack a piston when it inevitably goes to ****.
It's throwing caution to the wind running anymore than Subaru dare to (340bhp on the latest cars) in my limited but burned fingers experience.
Running it 100bhp higher and over 400lbft through standard bearings is asking for a completely new engine if you ask me, that's not just going to crack a piston when it inevitably goes to ****.
unfortunately their are exceptions to the rule and you appear to have been burned by it.
Once bitten twice shy I guess, I wouldn't run a stock 2.5 ever again. I was really lucky to pick it up when I did, pistons and HG were absolutely screwed though.
Any engine is a risk don't start me off on 911s!
Currently running a fully forged lump with no issue, it is a bit extreme to recommend that for every application but I do wonder though why Subaru didn't revise the engine with stronger pistons and bolt the HG down tighter.
Any engine is a risk don't start me off on 911s!
Currently running a fully forged lump with no issue, it is a bit extreme to recommend that for every application but I do wonder though why Subaru didn't revise the engine with stronger pistons and bolt the HG down tighter.
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Once bitten twice shy I guess, I wouldn't run a stock 2.5 ever again. I was really lucky to pick it up when I did, pistons and HG were absolutely screwed though.
Any engine is a risk don't start me off on 911s!
Currently running a fully forged lump with no issue, it is a bit extreme to recommend that for every application but I do wonder though why Subaru didn't revise the engine with stronger pistons and bolt the HG down tighter.
Any engine is a risk don't start me off on 911s!
Currently running a fully forged lump with no issue, it is a bit extreme to recommend that for every application but I do wonder though why Subaru didn't revise the engine with stronger pistons and bolt the HG down tighter.
I ran a standard 2.5 lump in my my05 sti for 5 years without issue. With supporting mods the car ran 370/370 at 1 bar of boost. Only recently removed after having a 2.1 stroker built in an attempt to reach the 500 club. I must have been 1 of the lucky 1's I guess
Carberry not available on 06 onwards but tbh I am not convinced that carberry is a correct solution for any newage tbh.
Big weak point on the hawk 2.5 sti and wrx is the oil pick up pipe. These can fail at ANY time and with it they take the crank, rods and lots of other bits with them. Easy to spot the symptoms with an oil pressure gauge before it gets to be a problem though.
Always check these on engine removal strip down and besides having seen two of these go on my own engines, I see it probably 50% of the time on a 2.5 engine.
As Simon said the 2.5 is normally fine to 370-380 if mapped to help mitigate any ringland issues, but with stronger pistons they will take a lot of abuse and make for a stunning road car because of the torque and instant spool up. Works out at £1500 or so drive in drive out for forging the pistons and head gaskets so it isnt really that expensive either tbh compared to a full forged build.
Love mapping them though and mapping a std sti or wrx gives massive improvements as the std map is so tame. The PPP maps are ok but still room for driveability and safety improvements.
Big weak point on the hawk 2.5 sti and wrx is the oil pick up pipe. These can fail at ANY time and with it they take the crank, rods and lots of other bits with them. Easy to spot the symptoms with an oil pressure gauge before it gets to be a problem though.
Always check these on engine removal strip down and besides having seen two of these go on my own engines, I see it probably 50% of the time on a 2.5 engine.
As Simon said the 2.5 is normally fine to 370-380 if mapped to help mitigate any ringland issues, but with stronger pistons they will take a lot of abuse and make for a stunning road car because of the torque and instant spool up. Works out at £1500 or so drive in drive out for forging the pistons and head gaskets so it isnt really that expensive either tbh compared to a full forged build.
Love mapping them though and mapping a std sti or wrx gives massive improvements as the std map is so tame. The PPP maps are ok but still room for driveability and safety improvements.
Initially the oil pressure drops excessively on warm up...
When really bad the oil pressure drops to 1 bar or so on hot idle even with good oil in there.
The pipe splits around the brazed part at the front of the pipe where it bolts into the bottom of the block and draws in air when really it ought to be sucking up pure oil lol.
Essentially starves the bearings of oil and will cause bottom end failure if giving it full beans or just wear the bearings unnecessarily on normal useage.
Very common failure and as far as I have seen the most likely cause of a bottom end failure on the 2.5.
NASIOC covers it in massive detail.
Here is one of mine:
When really bad the oil pressure drops to 1 bar or so on hot idle even with good oil in there.
The pipe splits around the brazed part at the front of the pipe where it bolts into the bottom of the block and draws in air when really it ought to be sucking up pure oil lol.
Essentially starves the bearings of oil and will cause bottom end failure if giving it full beans or just wear the bearings unnecessarily on normal useage.
Very common failure and as far as I have seen the most likely cause of a bottom end failure on the 2.5.
NASIOC covers it in massive detail.
Here is one of mine:
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Ecutek racerom is for drivebywire cars so 2005 onwards, hawk, hatch and latest saloon and gtr35 etc.
two full maps, throttle blip, launch control, flatshift
Dodgy oil pick ups, chocolate pistons and head gaskets made of puff pastry. Nice.
I genuinely would love to see 2.0 vs 2.5 failure rate statistics.
Shame because if built properly that 2.5 is a great engine!
I genuinely would love to see 2.0 vs 2.5 failure rate statistics.
Shame because if built properly that 2.5 is a great engine!
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