Hi i have done abit of reasearch on considering going 2.35 as this seems to be the way forward to get over 650hp safely. Could someone who has ventured down this route please shine some lights on costs eg how much for shortmotor? Race heads? Ecu? Turbo? Etc etc. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

LOTS. I looked into this and it was getting near 10K!!!!

 

If you need the whole kit and kaboole then you can easily kiss goodbye to 20K
Especially if you need ecu,rotated kit and turbo plus engine with race cams etc

 

Copied from another thread

Used EJ22 closed deck block, stripped, cleaned, 1 £1495.00
Inspected, and exterior blast cleaned.

Arrow billet crank, 1 £1725.00

Lateral/Wiseco custom 2.35lt piston kit, with up rated pins 1 £ 575.00

Ceramic coated pistons 1 £ 150.00

Lateral/Crower billet "H" section stroker rods, 1 £ 645.00

Crower 285,000 psi rod bolt set 1 £ 200.00

Multi layer steel head gaskets, (pair) 1 £ 130.00

ACL “Race series” main bearings, phase 2 (set) 1 £ 74.50

ACL “Race Series” centre main thrust bearing 1 £ 45.00

ACL “Race series” big end bearings (set) 1 £ 58.50

14mm head stud kit, & modified dowels 1 £ 365.00


Goods total: £5263.00


VAT @ 20% £1052.60


Invoice total: £6315.60


Block Machining:

Machine block for 2.5lt crank 1 £ 145.00

Bore, & one block for pistons, 1 £ 180.00

Surface block halves (pair) 1 £ 95.00

To machine, and tap block for 14mm studs 1 £ 180.00


Labour To Build Short Engine:

To clean short engine components, prep’ block pair, 1 £ 875.00
dummy build short engine with plasti gauge, inspect,
re-clean, and final assembly.

Head Machining & Work:

To strip head pair, inspect, and race port, 1 £ 650.00

Re-face head pair 1 £ 95.00

Re-cut valve seats 1 £ 128.00

Machine heads for 14mm head studs 1 £ 108.00

To lap valves in, assemble head components, & check 1 £ 595.00
valve clearances. Machine buckets to within tolerance.
Strip, clean, and re-assemble heads.


Final Engine Assembly:

To fit heads, check, and adjust valve clearances, as 1 £ 575.00
required, Fit plastics, pulleys, idlers, tensioner, oil, &
water pumps, sump, set cam timing,



£3626.00

 

Lol cheers lads sounds like 10k would just tickle the idea i suppose i would get some ££££ back for my old bits. And what would be the limits of this type of block? Bhp/torque.. peak power?

 

A forged 2.1
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/vie...956&cmd=VIDESC

 

Looks impressive, anybody used one off these?

 

im up to 645bhp so far on a 2.35, will be mapping for nos and race fuel this week...

 

Very impressive banny Are you expecting to go past 800 on race fuel?? What box you using ?

 

Nah nowhere 800 as the turbo wont flow enough for that, anything over 700 will be nice and its on a UK hawkeye 6 speed box

 

very easy to spend 10k-20k + the cost of adding a 6 speed to your WRX

 

Cheers buddy.. do people use the hawkeye sti 6 speed because of its longer ratios? Or would a normal 6 speed do the trick?

 

To answer your question a lot of cash,dedication and patience is needed.as above for the block and head rebuild.you don't really need a billet crank unless you can afford it what was not mentioned was after Market ecu,turbo,rotated kit,parallel fuel rail set up,external fuel pump Etc etc etc..........

 

Any Subaru impreza sti 6 speed gear box will do the job with the right clutch.

 

Cheers mate. Im in two minds now i have a spare type r shell do i build this from scratch or do i sell the bits out of my current type r and keep the bits i need.. hmmm decisions decisions.. im thinking selling my current type r which aint no shambles at 515hp built by ET to raise funds for the 2.35 as this is defo the way i want to go.. hmmmmm any input on what i should do??

 

Hi there

You should ask yourself if you are need 2.35L.If you are already running nice bhp and in classic have 500bhp is great

In most cases 2.1L is good option,but if is budget yes 2.35L is without the doubts best option

About the cots,depends on parts used and would speak with engine builders here and ask them about the prices

As above Billet crank is luxus what you will don't need,standard crank is good enough for high bhp

I would buy parts from USA where cost lot less like here and you will save money on other bits

We are going with 2.35L too,but engine/heads and everything about that has been specced by Neil@Slowboy racing and really I would suggest speak with few people about the best option like is MartynJ@ET,Paul@Zen,Neil@Slowboy racing etc


Jura

 

As Jura said with 515 bhp already I would of thought that kind of power in a classic Subaru frame would be wickedly quick on the streets so the question you have to ask yourself is the extra outlay to build a 2.35 really worth it?

 

Cheers lads for the advise, 515hp is mental for a road car i couldnt agree more but having just got 3 point totalling 9 now im turning to track use stricktly so the need for extra power is being explored. What would be the difference in running 2.1 to 2.35? Is there a great difference in peak tollerence between the two?

 

I've got a EJ22t CDB for sale. £1200 delivered. PM if interested.

 

Just to throw another mad idea in, have you seen JGM's 3 litre 6 cylinder build in projects????

 

On track you don't need too much power(if power sometimes helps),on some tracks you will need more spool than power,on drag strip would say yes,power is everything,but still would rather spend money elsewhere like on suspension upgrades and good wheel alignment

2.1 vs 2.35,peak tolerance/power,depends on turbo which is used,with 35r I would suspect will be laggy without the AVCS,with AVCS should be spool better,but not as on 2.35L

If you will be using properly sized turbo like 30r or Twin scroll 30r/Borg Warner EFR range I wold say on 2.1 will be OK,but still on 2.35L will be better

Depends on your targets and on budget,from this I would choose,if 2.1L will be good and cheaper option or 2.35L will be better option on longer run

As many people here suggest,speak first with tuners which building the engines



Jura

 

Advanced Autos build quality lumps, one of their 2.1 builds is running near on 700bhp now.

 

Cheers Jura your advise is much appreciated, after a good long thought ive decided to part with my current spec type R, sell this as a whole car as it would be a shame to break it after just throwing almost 7k at it and start fresh once it has sold.

Spoke to ET and a 2.1 with avcs heads might just meet my requiremnents so possibly go down this route with abit of nos if required.

Will be posting a for sale add soon for my current spec type R so if anybody is intrested in a 515hp ET built type R please do get in touch.

Cheers lads for all the advise you have been great as always.

 

Just to resurrect this thread. Thinking of breaking my car. Whats my 2.35 worth

All work conducted by Enginetuner

Spec is

554.2bhp/520lbs on Vpower (1.9bar)
600.6/570lbs on Vpower + 16 % meth (1.9bar)
EJ22T Closed Deck Block Stroked to 2.35
79mm nitrided crank
Mahle pistons with uprated pins
I-beam rods
ACL Race bearings
Block seal kit including new block bolts
Rear thrust machining
Rebore and hone
Kevlar cam belt
RCM Group N Sump
RCM oil pump
Head stud kit 14 MM
Water pump
Tensioner kit
Cosworth head gaskets
Subaru gasket and seal kit

Heads

JDM Big port Heads with Head throat and seat work porting
Kelford 264 Cams
Cosworth Inconel +1mm valves

 

I know of a brand new CDB 2.6 stroker for sale, billet crank, brand new CDB block, brand new JDM avcs heads, 13mm studs, Supertech valve train RCM cams. It,s ready to drop in. PM me if interested.

 

resurrecting this thread as im on the hunt for my 05 sti to go to a forged 2.1. I really know nothing about this part of tuning side so any help would be appreciated. my car is running 440 on meth but I want more torque for a more aggressive feel. whats the cost of a 2.1? will this be the right way to go etc?? any advice is welcome
thanks

craig

 

It's a slippery slope craigyp when you start a engine project,but yes 2.1 would be a less problematic way of doing it as you just get the stroker kit,lateral performance do a good kit at good money,and you use your existing block,but if it's an improvement in torque your looking for really you should be looking at doing headwork and cams as well to release the extra torque and rev range.££££ good luck with any decision you make.SJ.

 

Stroker kit :http://www.lateralperformance.co.ukSJ.

 

thanks for that mate. yeah after torque mainly so I need heads doing too? any one recommend a good build company and a rough cost of all the wore?
area 52 qouted around the 3k mark

 

Hi Craig

Depends how much bhp you are want and if for you will be enough 550bhp build 2.1L or do you want in future go with bigger turbo etc.

If you are looking for build 2.1L then I would speak like over here MartynJ or AlanJ about their 2.1L options

2.1L and MDX321T is great combo and with right supporting mods you will have matched toque and bhp figure like in our case 490/480 or 452/440

About the cost of the 2.1L,have look on this

http://www.slowboy-racing.co.uk/inde...d=22&Itemid=73

Jura