Hello,
I'm struggling very early into my project....https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...l#post10423301
Does anyone know the size of open spanner I'd need to hold the cams whilst i undo the pulleys?


Also the Torx bolts/nuts inside the heads which hold the head's to the blocks are they 12mm torx?

 

13mm for the head bolts,although when i undid them recently i found a half inch felt a bit tighter now weather that was due to a knackered socket or not i don't know, to undo the pulleys use the old cambelt and a pair of mole grips to lock it in place.

there is actually a tool that holds the pulley but i don't know where to get one from, but a well known engine builder told me it's the other best way of doing it and it worked a treat for me.

I would add that a decent set of spanners and socket set is a good investment and halfrauds are doing a half price deal at the moment i picked up a full set of ratchet spanners for £40 and they are the professional range.

 

14mm 12 point socket for the head bolts.
12mm 12 point socket for the crankcase bolts when you get to them.

I have the luxury of an air gun to do the cam pulley bolts.

Mick

 

you slacken the pulleys a wee bit before you take the timing belt off if stripping it down

 

as mentioned you wont find a 13mm on them as standard as it was unlucky

 

When you first take the engine out use something (i have a flywheel locking tool but a big screwdriver also works) to lock the flywheel and at this point slacken off all cam pulley bolts as well as main pulley. I use a cordless impact gun but a socket and breaker bar works fine too.

 

As above , mole grips on timing belt to make it extra tight, then crack bolts, jobs a good un

 

Between the flywheel ring gear and the block

 

Not being rude, but are you sure about doing this yourself.

Now please don't be offended, as i know we all have to start somewhere, but if your struggling at this stage it may be an idea to get someone with a little more knowledge to give you a hand.

I only say this as i'd hate for you to spend a load of time and money on new parts only to have something go wrong and you finding yourself out of pocket big time, because if you make a little mistake things get very expensive very quickly, and you don't come across as someone that has done this sort of thing before based on the questions your asking.

 

The headbolts are Not torx headed.
A good quality 1/2" drive 14mm 12 point socket and a power bar is all you need to remove the headbolts.

Mick