hi there i am on my 5th scooby and for some reason my new one seems very slow to start with but when it gets to 4000 revs it kicks in at a rate of knots all most to the point of whiplash compared with others it is not as smooth does anyone have any idea`s??????

 

Newbies....

What year ?

What spec ?

What mods ?

dunx

 

Has the pipework from the turbo/actuator to the boost solenoid been changed ? If so, sounds like the restrictor pill is missing.

 

sorry its a 95 wrx v1 i only got it a week ago it looks like it has had a few mod f,m,i dump valve, sti manifold red top, induction kit, full set of samco hoses, decat and full exhaust, turbo timer. it could be the pipe from the turbo/actuator but how do i check thats if it is that???

 

As dynamix says - Check to the turbo T-piece pipe work, and check for the pill restrictor in here. Im not sure on your size, but here is one of the threads relating to the sizes:

https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...locations.html

HOWEVER If the car has been modded then who knows what the cause is and what mods have been and if so... I assume with the above mods you 'know about' that the car has been mapped accordingly, so it might be worth checking the T-piece and then finding out who mapped the car and speak to them?

 

Could just be the boost solenoid needs cleaning too.

 

1995 has a 3-port BCS so doesn't have that T-piece (like the later 2-port system has).

The vac hoses loop from the comp cover direct to the BCS, back out of the BCS, and to the w/g actuator.

The pill is in the vac hose that comes off the 3rd 'bleed' port on the very bottom of the BCS:-

http://www.polarperformance.co.uk/Boostsolenoid.html



...Unless it's all been changed over to the 2-port set-up, of course.

 

 

lol

 

thats great guys now is there a speical way to clean them????

 

The 'established' practice is to squirt the ports through with brake/carb cleaner.

If you can remove the BCS and hang it up in the garage overnight to drip any crap out and fully dry out, then even better.

Or perhaps, blasting an airline through it (after first leaving the fluid in the BCS for about 10mins), is probably best...

 

right now taken off all pipe work and boost sensor all cleaned and dryed put back together and slightly better but still not right maybe a job for the garage just hope not to much!!!

 

You have one that goes to the turbo, one that goes to the actuator. Is that the only place they go to or do they T off to the inlet manifold as well because there are a lot of boost pipe connectors on there as well and mine T off onto there (V3 STi)? And the one with the pill in just vents to the air? Sorry to jump in on your thread but this may benefit you as well

 

no all should go were they should go but thanks anyway pal

 

fmic i believe may be ur problem ( pipework bore too large ) and also the length of the pipework especially with a 90* tdo5
the restrictor pill wouldnt be ur problem as u would get low boost if u didnt have one
also having an aftermarket up-pipe will cause major lag aswell so check u dont have one thats too big a bore , also try adjusting your actuator just a little tighter ( make the rod shorter ) but only a little until u feel a difference

 

also check the dump valve is closing as soon as the throttle is blipped as sum stay open ever so slightly on idle until pressure is high enough from the inlet manifold to close the piston shut , if its adjustable , tighten the spring until the desired effect is reached if it is not adjustable then not much u can do , but i doubt its ur dump valve , just in case though

 

ok thanks pal last owner says its had a new 4 branch manifold and the actuator is not adjustable do i need one then ???

 

version 3 is a 2 port solenoid with one hose going to a t-piece then from the tee piece to the actuator and the tee piece to the turbo housing ( tee piece to turbo housing should have the pill in it on a v3 )

 

v3 is 2-port t-piece assembly not 3-port single pipes

 

the manifold bore may be too large , if it is then it will cause serious lag and realy they are not needed until decent power outputs are being achieved and more than likely it has a flexi joint in it , which btw if the flexi is leaking or the bore of the manifold is too big it will also cause major lag as the flow is not reaching the turbo fast enough to spool it in time ( standard turbo setups td04 , tdo5 etc )

the fmic is a major cause of lag especially with an old turbo

 

the actuator rod should be adjustable but you need to remove the funnel shaped heatshield/air vent that surrounds it it should present a rod with a threaded end on it and a small bolt securing it , and a circlip holding the wastegate flap to the actuator rod

 

no its not ajustable its the second one i have had thats not

 

johngoulding you are dead right, just been out and checked (2 port not 3) going to post up my own thread instead of going all over yours seebass

 

Well what turbo is on it? And sounds like boost pipes or manifold to bigger bore.