as above i want to know if i can run any more boost safely or is this limit,i had it mapped by jgm but feel its not as sharpe as my pals uk turbo 2000 which i sold him,i had vf 28 full decat sti topmount and manual boost controller on it then i sold it,,just went out in his turbo 2000 and wouldnt say its quicker than mine but just feels sharper,ive spent a fortune on coilovers and alk,roll centre,arb"s,drop links etc...and feel that cant get a quick gearchange and instant power like i thought i would,i know the turbo 2000 is lighter but should get this feeling from mine, i have changed gearbox oil to syntrax but seems a bit clumsy where as my old turbo 2000 can be slamed into gear and power is on it quicker,

when mapped i had new plugs,air filter fuel pump,its got good engine oil (motul 300 v)full decat exhaust all put on by me so i sort of want it as good as possible,can changing maf sensor sharpen things up as i just cleaned it befor mapping ?any thoughts folks thanks

 

not too sure mate but i think the vf28 spools up quicker than whats on you 02 sti . is this what you mean by sharper ?

stu

 

i think that maybe the limit. im sure jgm wud take the car to the limit in safest way

 

yes mate i thought that,mines a vf35 which spools quick but think the 28 was originaly for the ra and was designed for acceleration and with the classics being lighter maybe thats why it feels more tighter,any one out there who has a newage with 6 speed box know what i mean ? cant seem to get a smooth gearchange like the 5 speeds on the classics,mine could probably do with a syncro freshup maybe ?

 

i had a v5 type r running 346bhp on the vf28 (standard turbo) ,now got a wr1 running 340bhp with the standard vf35, and the classic felt much quicker

think i need to make mine 400bhp now lol

stu

 

when i launch mine its a different car or if i have revs up high then the power is fantastic,but when just pulling off normal then giving the beans its a quick car but takes a while to wind it up,i suppose its the weight.

 

whats your thoughts on the 6 speed in your wr1 mate.

 

Weight is the problem, you need about 70 more bhp to address the problem.

Is your AVCS working ?
i.e. does your car feel smooth in it's power delivery, or does it kick-in and go as the AVCS does it's thing...

To get more bhp, will mean fitting a bigger turbo, so could make it more laggy.

dunx

 

Sounds like neutral position switch is worn out.

 

as it happens i was having a ecu light fault and changed the nps switch,dont get me wrong it drives nice and is quick its just getting back in a classic,well my old one,it seems a bit more raw,so as dunx says its most likely weight.my old one would run out of puff when mine is still pulling,also the kid who has my old classic has boost set high.
dunx is the avcs basicly variable cam timing and would this feel like a kick when comes in?

 

classics are raw thats why i love mine, as you say weight and build quality, and also they arre smaller and mine sertenly feels lowwer its a v1/2 classic

 

I had the same problem going from my P1 to a V7 STI with 330bhp, the power just isn't as raw as the classics thus giving the impression that you're not going as quickly, annoying I know but there is probably nothing wrong.

 

Yes it's the Subaru acronym for VVT....

When mine was first mapped back in the dark ages, it was superbly smooth but lacking in "*****", then the NPS started working again and I thought Richard Bulmer was god.... LOL

dunx

P.S. A New-Age with 350+ "feels" more like a classic, but it will stop if you need to ( my "cat" had 2 pots on the front (1997))

 

AVCS acronym.. Active (or Automatic) Valve-Control System? Or what?

 

I was running 332bhp / 312lbft on my VF35 with supporting mods. I think at around 1.5bar on cold weather it would hit 1.55bar.

STi 7 btw

Steve

 

I have a 410bhp on my STI 7 running 1.6 bar and to be honest my 350bhp classic felt quicker.

The weight of the car and the spool up time of the turbo's makes it seem less quick.

 

Lol, my 05 wrx with c340-350 and ~100kgs lighter than an STI is a good compromise, all IMHO of course..

Saying that, I've had to address a few things, such as braking/suspension etc.. Keeping the weight down is key however..

 

I'm not removing my aircon !

lol

dunx

 

^^^ Is that the right answer? Anyone?

 

Yep..

VVC, AVCS, VVT, VTEC, VANOS, VCT, CVVT etc, etc.... all basically the same, ie active valve control..

 

can i get 400 bhp with following - md 321 ,injectors,remap. do i need a fuel pressure regulator,front mount?any advise on cheapest way to 400 (and further if poss lol )ill get a plan first then the money hopefully.

 

If you have from 650, 740, 800, etc inj. then an FPR wont be required. You'd prob need the FPR if you have 550s.

If a MD321H then you'd prob have to map on V-Power PLUS NF/Meth/E85, etc. to be sure of getting to 400+. Otherwise a MD321T will defo do it on V-Power only... or maybe even 97 only.

Other turbo options are (obviously the S206) and the HS420. IIRC, the HS420 is a decent chunk cheaper than the MD321H or T (but don't take my word for that - contact harvey for details...)

However, I think if you got a TD05H 20g mapped on V-Power + NF, you should get 400 (or as near as makes no difference) and this would be the cheapest possible way. The HS380 is another similar sized/performing turbo to the 20g.

Brand new 'proper' TD05 20g from Andy Forrest is £550 +VAT... so long as you have a servicable turbo to exchange...

 

Here you are carl, see here too:-

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...bo-400bhp.html

 

sorry but what are the standard sti pinks and is it better to change or have them flowed ?

 

cheers had just read that mate lol

 

Oops, didn't realise you posted in that thread, sorry bud.

OEM STi 'pinks' should be 550s - so an FPR is invariably required to be sure of getting 400.... Although someone in that thread got 400 with the 550s (but he could've had an FPR too, of course).

If unsure of their performance/age then flow matching is very much a good idea! Last thing you want is to melt a piston due to a non-performing injector!

Off the top of me head, Lateral do it for £30+VAT...

 

Mine is at 400 on a 321H with tubular headers and a de-cat, with an fpr at 4 bar static, runs at 94% (injectors), so when I go 2.1 it's got to have 650 instead....

The limit with mine is the ecu, holds boost to approx. 1.6 bar, BUT the turbo is capable of 2 bar easily... but the engine may not be up to managing that.

So next step is ecu replacement to allow 2 bar of boost, and a forged 2.1 engine of course....

dunx