Hiya chaps,

There was a thread on hear a few weeks ago explaining how to do this, it was an old one in response to a Andy Tang question.

I can't find it, anybody help?

Mikey (Wants to get jiggy with resonator boxes this afternoon! )

[Edited by Gridlock Mikey - 2/15/2002 9:08:36 AM]

 

Mike

Its easy... Most important thing is you make sure you fit back the plastic guard under the arch. Also a blob of silicon around the old join will help. Only a mild amount of more noise.

I did mine with the wheel on!!!!

But if you can take it off it will be easier. about 3 bolts underneath and one large one at the top. Once you get underneath it will explain itself!!

 

Mike,

I did it....if you want a hand (i.e. be shown how to do it ) I can help you out

You know where I am

 

Each to their own and all that, but I've removed my resonator - and I'm going to put it back on as soon as I get the chance.

Found loads of rubbish on the bottom of my ITG panel filter that appears to have entered into the airbox through the inner wing. The hole in the inner wing is meshed, but still managed to get rubbish in there some how

Just an alternative viewpoint!

 

Funnily enough, I put mine back too cos I was paranoid about crap getting in there. Some people have ran without problems. Just be aware that it can allow easier access for water and crap into the system (more easy than with the resonator anyway).

Sounds nice though

 

I removed the resonator (not in a scooby) thinking there were some benefits. I then ended up going through (rather a deep) flood, the engine picked up water from behind the wheel arch and resulted in a new engine. If you take the resonator off bear this in mind - you never quite know how deep the ford / flood is. I've not looked at where the resonator is in my scooby but just a thought......

 

Mickey, I almost don't dare to say this LOL

It is a mod that:

a) doesn't do anything useful re: power (I know MRT says otherwise*)
b) possibly works ok for 100.000 miles
c) but ... possibly may cost you an engine

Put a, b, and c together, and you have an iffy mod with possible (but very small chance) catastrophic failures.

This, my friend, I can tell you with 100 % certainty.

How's that eh

Theo

* (disclaimer: it could do something for highly tuned engines at the top end)

** cue dowser to contradict me LOL

 

See how scary Theo can be ! Convinces me anyway.... Come in Mr Dowser....

 

Hang on, I've been offline for a few hours, I need to catch up

Richard

 

Induction noise is for big wheel running medallion wearing hairy chested 1980s Ferrari wannabees that can't afford the full 12 cylinder symphony. TSSSSTTSTTTT WHOOOOSHHHHH I'm going really fast honest guv

 

Yeah but you got to admit it does sound sweeeeeet

 

Hi Theo - I still reckon you left the splash guard off

a) Agree re. power - I do it for the throttle response. The time between planting right foot and power getting to the wheels is reduced. But then the same is true of a cone, no?

b) Well, 50'000km per car so far for me.

c) Yep - just like fitting a Unichip

Seriously though, I wouldn't be doing (or recommending) it if I thought there was too much risk - and am interested in finding out why this has happened (to my knowledge you were the only one?)

I confess to being intrigued by the leaning out I've noticed in the wet since fitting the lambda sensor but need more time to investigate (car is in the garage at the moment after a nasty encounter with a deer last week ) - but I've always monitored knock and assume I would see something if I was running 2% CO

I'm thinking it's 'cos of the denser air at this stage - any ideas?

When you had the problems, was it just normal standing water - or were you actually trying to navigate a river?! Was it with a td04, or larger flowing turbo?

When I first read your findings I went out and bought a sheet of plastic to rig up some sort of baffle to deflect the water at entry point - after checking the airbox in the wet to find it dry, it's still sitting at the back of my garage.

Just a thought - I've blocked the opening between inner wing and engine bay (primarily to keep all that nasty hot air away - I was young then, and foolish ). Was yours left open? I guess it's possible that at speed there's enough vacuum generated to draw water up towards this opening, and is then sucked in by the turbo?

Certainly, without the resonator you need to clean the filter regularly - all sorts of bugs/leaves get up there....which initially suggested that water must too, but it's not been my experience.... And I'd never do it with the OE paper filter!

Richard
PS: I also noticed increased economy at normal speeds without the resonator

 

Have you seen how hairy my chest is

Still gonna do it cos i don't do big puddles, wade through Fords (Unless they are at the traffic lights )Go off roading, use a pressure washer, drive through leafy suburbs, or council tips.

Running a decat system with a itg panel filter. I know that there is no more power to be had but i've kinda fallen in love with the induction noise and if i can get it louder, thus increasing MY driving pleasuire, then i reckon it's worth a shot.

Hanslow, how long does it take? A normal person that is not a perfectionist like yourself.

Your guauge pod is gonna take decades man (Can't believe that i spelt gauge like that )

Mikey (Not a massive fan of Atmos DVs funnily enough......This month )

Edited kuz i karnt swell!

[Edited by Gridlock Mikey - 2/15/2002 12:41:54 PM]

 

Mikey

If it's a problem, just blatting along the motorway in the pouring rain may be enough...... That's my get out clause if your engine blows

Questions to the others that have it removed; do you also block off the opening between inner wing and engine bay? Have you checked your airbox for water after a run in the wet?

Thanks
Richard

 

Mine was OK in the wet and I did no blocking. Noise was schweeeet but I'm paranoid as they come so I put it back on to make sure I got no water in there (even though there was no evidence of it!).

Mike, should take about half an hour to an hour. I'll guide you through all the bits you need to do so that you can sort it yourself putting it on and taking it back off again

Give us a bell sometime this weekend if the weather is OK, should be able to spare you some of my perfectionist time

By the way, just got my screw for my oil temp sender so that's the first bit got for the gauges Just need the surround, plasticard, gauges and plenty of time and it'll all be sorted You've just got to get these things right man Looking at possibly fitting an AFR indicator onto the gauge housing as well....should look like KITT when I've finished (about 2034 )


[Edited by Hanslow - 2/15/2002 1:22:19 PM]

 

Just buy a K&N induction kit and be done with it!!!!

 

Nick,

You have a point. Having said that, the Induction kits are known for loosing a little torque at the bottom end and the Resonator Removal supposedly does this to a degree also (due to disturbed and slower airflow) so I thought this was worth pointing out.

Also, why does everyone seem to mis the most likely (IMHO) safer option when having removed the Res by making up a pipe which takes the OE inlet and curves round into and out of the wing, connecting up to the Airbox inlet? This would surely remove the problem with possibly ingesting water and crap as the OE intake is shielded by the front of the car?

Incase you want them Mikey, res removal instructions here.

Matt

 

OK, let's be serious for a moment ...

I told you about the weird CO values about 8 months ago. It had nothing to do with puddles or rivers, it was just raining very hard, and there was a lot of waterspray from other cars etc...

Maybe it depends on how well the splashguard seals off, but I can ASSURE you I found a LOT of water in the standard filter box.
Mark Verhoeven (EMS) can be my witness, the whole filter was soaking wet, and all the oil had disappeared...

If that can happen to me, it surely can happen to other people. NOT having had a problem is not exactly proof that it could only happen to one person (me), and no one else. It's not because you never had an accident and you don't wear a safetybelt that it's OK to not wear a safetybelt.

OK, now bare with me ...

I had planned to put the resonator back, but you know how it goes, work, forget, no time, maybe it was just a one off etc etc... so I didn't get to restoring it yet.

Funny thing is: last week, I drove back from Mark Verhoeven's place, and it was pooring down. Needless to say that after 50 km .... IT BLOODY DID IT AGAIN. 2 CO, splut, stutter at full boost, enormeous misfire... pants cleaning time

So next day I look for the resonator in my garage, can't find the stupid thing so I went out & bought an induction kit as a temporary solution, just to get rid of this water problem.

I already hate the induction noises now BTW, but that's another story.

YES I had closed off the gap between wing & inner bay (with some pond liner LOL ), and yes, the splash guard was fit as it should be. Yes, it was with the VF23, but whatever you think about vacuum & stuff, a turbo at full chat sucks in about 200 liters of air per SECOND. That is enough to suck in a small dog if it would happen to be in your inner guard.

No, I am not the only one, some people have commented that they have seen the same problem (read a few posts above for an example ).

Maybe Mickey should to what Luke suggested, and seal off the splash guard with silicone or whatever, that might make it safer.
Or put a connection between the who holes and leave the front intake plastic thingy.

I hope this little story at least informs you duly about the potential risks of removing the resonator.

If you want improved throttle response, buy a Dawes. MUCH safer !

Nah

Theo

 

OK, OK Theo - I'm scared enough to check everything again

But more scary is that you didn't refit yours after the 1st 'pant cleaning' experience, lol!

Richard

 

I said Theo was scary

 

ok..... v worried now...
I have my blitz air filter on and a piper X induction pipe, hence no resinator (the black plastic bit between the maf and engine?).

What should I cover up / blank off? The yellow / white pipe from the drivers side wing? I didn't realise this could cause engine failures

img is here, I havn't directly linked as its quite big
http://www.diz.org.uk/images/scoob-engine.jpg
here

plz help.

 

I think your only concern is you MAF sensor - but maybe it is better on ealier models. As far as I can see from your pictures you have an induction kit on. The resonator we are referring to is in the wing as a duct to the original airbox. I don't see any issues for you regarding your resonator.

[Edited by john banks - 2/15/2002 3:19:10 PM]

 

omg thanks
phweeeeeeeeweeeeee
maf failure I was aware of and can account for (£300, id be peved but not bankrupt).

I'd just gotten used to the extra noise too
I was getting woried about the wheel removal jobbie too because I thought the resonator was the black tub like thing.
thanks again

 

Dizzy, sorry for that, it is not my intention to scare people (although, better scared than sorry).

My warning is for people who keep the standard airboxfilter, but remove the resonator and don't a) seal off the splash guard or b) connect a hose between the intake plastic and the filterbox as decribed by mutant_matt a few posts earlier.

John, get off my back

Just got me a sheet of aluminium to make a sort of heat insulator between engine & induction kit now... will report later, although I'm not sure it will be with 10 fingers still