whats the easiest way to fit a dump valve to a 1998 uk turbo, i have the bailey valve off my old 1993 wrx but the pipes are bigger on these newer ones..

anybody found a quick fix way of doing it without spending £££ on a fitting kit..?

 

Hey up mate,
What i found is that when i bought mine from well lane turbo they sold me a dump valve and fitting kit for a 93 model. So all i did was put the hose which came in the fitting kit into the existing oem subaru hose off the intercooler which saved me buying a reducer, tightened up the hose clamp, no leaks, awesome!
Its a perfect, nice, tight fit.
Hope this helps
Carl

 

make sure its not a VTA dumpvalve or you car will run like a bag of ****e

 

Not if you use a twin piston version, this will sort the running probs.

 

yeah its a twin piston, else it ****s up the idle.. right?

thanks coddy, i think i get what your sayin.. any pics?

 

Soz mate no pics at the mo cos its fitted and its dark.....if i get time tomorrow i'll take it off (30 sec job) and show you how to piece it together, although like you said, if you've got it, its straight forward enuf.

 

cheers, that would be usefull, im having a blonde moment here

 

will it ****!

whats the point in posting misleading information for the gullible and inanely stupid to digest?

 

Chill, Elmer, you're wasting your time, These guys KNOW. They did it on RS Turbos and it worked so it'll work on Scoobs, OK?

Alcazar

 

i thought he was right,, it must be a twin piston on a sccob cos of the air flow meter, same as most other cars with AFM's seem not to like the single piston, leading to problems on idle etc??

 

It doesn't matter how many bluddy pistons the dumb valve has,it will be diverting air past the MAF sensor altogether

so you WILL get a lumpy idle

you WILL get jerky gearchanges

and you WILL NOT get as good a throttle response as the std valve

..but hey,thats ok cos it WILL make a stupid noise

 

the job of the second piston is close when on idle to stop the bypass of air

 

"It doesn't matter how many bluddy pistons the dumb valve has,it will be diverting air past the MAF sensor altogether"

where do you think the standard re circ valve puts the air??? it doesnt go back through the maf...

 

Right thats it,you're obviously trying to wind me up.

Where do you think it goes then?straight out the bedroom window into the secret place where the Bong trees grow

 

dont be so ****ing GAY

 

I'm with Elmer on this one.

Each to their own at the end of the day, but getting rid of the VTA dump valve my car used to have was one of the best mods i've done to it.

Ran so much smoother after fitting a standard re-circ back onto it.

 

**** me, all i wanted to know is what sort of reducer to use...

 

Possibly true for some people, but that sweeping statement is simply not accurate across the board

 

LOL, , fek me, this is one of the funniest threads I've read for a while

Keep it up Elmer.

Alcazar

 

The standard Recirc DV does not divert the dumped air back through the MAF either, but into the intake just before the Turbo..

However the ecu has already compensated for this air to be dumped back in and altered to fueling to match this expected dump... Which is why you get pops and bangs when you vent to air, excess fuel!

 

Why bother fitting a vent to atmosphere dump valve anyway, it doesn't improve your performance at all and as stated above all it does is confuse the management system with regards to how much air is in the system.

Once fitted the air to fuel ratio will not be in line with what the air flow sensor is telling the management system which inevitably leads to issues.

Further more the bl00dy things leak after a while which introduces even more problems.

Lastly they make you look like a proper chav every time you change gear..

The first thing I did before picking up my MY98 STi was to remove the vent to atmosphere valve and re-fit the recirc one.

It makes me laugh that so many people seem to think the first thing they have to do when they buy a car with a turbo is fit a poxy BOV

 

i think you ll find that most people having issues with dump valves are the tight ***** and idiots who get either the wrong type or buy a cheap one, both will cause problems.. there is no performance increase or decrease by using a vent to atmos dump valve, its just a personal choise..

 

Must admit, I dorve my mates skyline the other day and that had a VTA dump valve. It sounded nice and was fun but not sure i would want to deal with that every day lol!

 

No mate, it's NOT

Ask yourself why, if there was no reason NOT to, NO reputable tuner, from Subaru themselves, through Prodrive and on down, EVER fit, or recommend fitting a VTA dumpvalve.

Alcazar

 

Exactamundo..

If you are running VERY high boost pressures then maybe it would provide a slight benefit over the STD recirc value, but for 99% of the members on here the only benefit will be to make them look like there really into wearing Burberry..

 

so.. no ones allowed to have a personnal choise then...?

 

^^^ of course they are.

but, they can't expect people to agree with those choices.

 

Especially if your choice is based on whether or not you want your car to make a chavvy whooshing noise..

 

My MY97 STI had a VTA valve on when I got it. I might try a std valve to see the difference. Am unsure if I need any extra pipe work think the Samco hose has been cut for the VTA valve

The tick over is very smooth. but I have noticed the gear changes are not that smooth however steady you lift off when on boost.

Yes it draws attention but so does the aftermarket exhaust if you rev it.
If anything the VTA valve makes me drive slower and off boost in towns etc anyway.

 

chavvy in YOUR opinion...