I'm thinking of fitting/making a kit up but wonder if its worth the effort and if so, where's the best location points to earth on the engine and chassis?

 

I fitted one but it was a buddy club voltage stabiliser and grounding kit in one.

Lights are very steady now since voltage doesn't fluctate. Not sure of major benefits apart from that but it can't be a bad thing to have on the car.

See here for the supposed benefits:

Buddy Club Racing Spec Condenser

Grounding points are block, head, body left/right.

 

Blimey, I didn't expect to hear that ref the voltage fluctuation...My voltage gauge is very sensitive and it shows how much it dances all over the place.
I'll def be fitting one now.
Do you earth the cables, joined together, back to the negative terminal of the battery, ie directly connected to it?

 

If you buy a kit it should come with instructions and diagrams but yes, all the grounding wires will connect directly to the battery and distribute to various places that benifit from a good earthing, i.e. Starter Motor.

 

i have a multi point earthing kit on mine but was on the car when i purchased it so cant tell wether it made diff,but have been told it sort a few things out including the idleing fluctuation.

 

Well guys, I did my own kit over the weekend. Grounds on 3 body parts of engine bay, engine block x1 and head x1 (other side to turbo) and the inlet manifold x1. The voltage at battery is very good and steady (with a voltage tester unit) as is through the earthing connection points. My SPA volts gauge still varies by .2 volts though, not sure why (this is without the engine running/alternator). How/where were you guys testing voltage readings from and with what kit? The SPA reads from a "mains" live wire (with fuse) that I installed into the bulk head but I think the earth inside the car might not be the best - I'll have to take some readings.

Starting does seem a fraction faster on turn over, but then, not sure if its because the battery was fully charged. Dont seem to notice owt other than that.

I might test the ohms readings at various points but since not a sparky, no idea what the preferred readings should be.

 

Basically the lower the reading the better as its got a easier path to run down.

 

Doh, should of guessed that really as ohms is resistance and that does what it says on the tin. cheers

 

I've done some testing, found my ohms readings on the inlet manifold high 70's without kit fitted, 60's with - what do others get with this reading?

I'm more concerned now about some of my digital gauges as the earths on some use the oe clock wiring and the resistance level is higher...upto 120's.

I may add more earthing cables yet...although I'd like to run a couple inside the cabin but I have little to no space let to route wires through the bulk head.