It's happened about 4 times now in the last month.

Car turns over fine but doesn't fire up. Then about 2 minutes later it will fire up as usual.

Last night would not start for about 5 minutes at my local shops. Had to leave it there and get my gf to pick me up. Went back about 2 hours later and fired up as usual.

Fuel pump? Not sparking? Damp??

 

Crank Postion sensor, cam position sensor or water temp sensor.

If it starts from cold, its one of the first two.

 

Expensive?

 

No, but you need to check which one it is first. Either get it on a Select Monitor or flash test the ECU for error codes.

 

Sounds very similar to my UK94 earlier this year
Was the crank sensor.

Got very annoying and embarrassing at times. Especially petrol stations

 

you have mail

 

Why is it working at times and not at other times?

 

Pete, I have a similar problem with my 11 year old Audi 90 2.3 litre 5 cylinder Quattro. Engine would quit occasionally when hot idling and would not fire up, as if there is no fuel. After a few minutes, every thing is OK again. Very embarassing at traffic lights. Could it possibly be the crank or cam sensor problem (if there is such a thing on a late 80's car)or a fuel pump acting up?

 

Rikki,
The reason for it sometimes working and others not is temperature. As the wires in the cam/crank sensor heat up they will expand, if there is a slight break in the wiring no signal will pass from the sensor and the engine will not start. Leave it to cool and the wires contract making a circuit again and the engine starts.

I needed to have the crank position sensor replaced on my car. If I did a short trip of half a mile to the petrol station, when I returned to the car after paying for the fuel it would not start for 20 minutes. If the engine was either cold or at full temperature it would start.

If you don't get it fixed the problem gets worse, my car stalled whilst ticking over at traffic lights and pedestrian crossings too before I found out what the fault was. Get it on a select monitor asap before it cuts out somewhere that puts you and your family in danger.

 

YES - sounds familiar - ive had my 95wrx for 3 months - when i first got it, it had been run exclusively on ESSO SUL & Octane - it started perfectly, when i got it i started using TEXACO SUL and octane - and it developed problems starting up - it would turn over but not fire up - dead embarrasing in the work car park!! - For the last month ive been using Optimax and octane (to around 100RON) - after the first tank it was a bit better, the second tank a lot better, and now its perfect - every time (Touch wood!)

Give it a try!

Phil

 

Andrew - that is exactly what is happening - not starting again after small journeys. Has only happened about 4 times. So this will get progressively worse until replaced? Can the car actually stall as a result as well as not starting?

Pete - How do I test the ECU for codes?

 

Rikki,

Like other here, I've also had this problem and it's been fixed by replacing the sensor. At first it was just difficult to start from warm and I thought I could live with it for a bit. Then one day I was sitting in a traffic jam and the car stalled. I was sitting there for about 5 mins trying to re-start it.

 

Yes Rikki, at tickover when at a pedestrian crossing or traffic lights etc. It never cut out above tickover though. Its not a big job, get the car checked soon.

 

Did you get a brand new one or second hand? Where is the best place that I could get one from?

 

Had mine changed by the dealer. Can not remember how much. about £90 I think...

 

Rikki
As above, had the same on my UK95, when the engine was warm and I stopped, it didn't start again.

Very annoying at petrol stations etc. Was the crank sensor which they found by just hooking up to the select monitor at dealer. About 30 minutes to change so 90 quid in total.

Probably easier to get it done there as they will know the error codes etc.

Paul

 

The garage I use for servicing ordered from a dealer then fitted it themselves.

If you're worried about getting parts for your WRX from main dealers then get in touch with Pete Croney at Scoobysport, he was first to reply to you and should be able to sort out your problems.

 

Thanks for the advice chaps

 

Do you think I should see to this ASAP or wait for a while - cash is a bit tight at the moment. It has only happened about 3 times ever to date?

 

I had the same problem earlier this year on my 94WRX. ECU fault code showed that it was the crankshaft position sensor. Because it was intermittent and the car usually started after a few tries, I didn't worry about replacing it too quickly. Then the engine cut out just as I came up to a mini-roundabout, loss of power steering, and I had to go straight on over the roundabout.
I changed it the next day. Cost £100 in VAT, and I changed it myself - it's very easy to get to and takes about 5 min tops.

 

hmmm - starting too sound a bit didgy maybe I should get it done ASAP.

1. How do you determine the ECU fault code?

2. Will a Subaru sourced replacement fit a 95 WRX or will I need to get the part elesewhere?

Anybody.

 

^^^^^^^ Anybody?

 

ricky

this is exactly the same problem i've got mine is fault code 13 (cam sensor) under you dash just by steering column is a male and female black connector (not connected). Connect these together then turn ignition to on position (dont start car) engine check light will flash.
1 long flash equal 10
1 short flash equals 1

cam sensor is 1 long 3 short
crank is 1 long and 1 short one

List of fault codes is here

Si

 

Are they the black connectors as in the Black and Green connectors for the ECU reset?

What a clever thing the ECU is?

PS I love KFC

 

Martin or anybody care to provide some basic instructions for replacing the CAM or CRANK sensor?