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help with re-building box please

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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 11:57 PM
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Default help with re-building box please

has anyone ever re-built there own box before??, prob going to do mine when i go back to work on tues. the main prob is the diff bearings have gone and the nut on the end of the shaft has come loose. but when i split the box i can have a better look. (box it out of my99 sti type r)

how much do you think i could sort my box for ??
how much would i pay for second hand one ??

thanks mark
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 08:37 AM
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I think you will find that box is quite rare, so a 2nd hand one will be hard to find.
Suggest you call David at www.apiengines.com tomorrow.

Graham
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 10:06 AM
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hi graham
i will be giving david a call after i split the box, to order the parts i req. I have not paid anyone to fix my car yet, and dont really want to start now. I have done other makes of boxs for people but not a scooby one (yet)

is there a modified nut for fith gear ?? and is there anything else i need to know about this box ?? (any heads up would be good)

thanks mark
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mark28
hi graham
i will be giving david a call after i split the box, to order the parts i req. I have not paid anyone to fix my car yet, and dont really want to start now. I have done other makes of boxs for people but not a scooby one (yet)

is there a modified nut for fith gear ?? and is there anything else i need to know about this box ?? (any heads up would be good)

thanks mark
Diff bearings should cost no more than £50+vat for the pair (they are big), and the 5th gear synchro nut has an easy fix. The best way of sorting the nut on the input shaft (which is what I presume is loose) is to clean it properly before assembly, and apply some high strength locking compound to the nut, on the first thread or so should be enough. I use loctite 603 currently, but any "retainer" or "studlock" should do the trick, provided the nut and shaft are clean and DRY when you assemble them.

Check for wear on the 5th and reverse synchros, and the wear pads on the 5th gear fork, as the loose nut can cause other problems, although the gears themselves should be fine.

If you need to secure the input shaft to do the nut up, it's the same spline as the output, so will fit on the gearbox end of the propshaft.

Cheers

Paul
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Zen Performance
The best way of sorting the nut on the input shaft (which is what I presume is loose) is to clean it properly before assembly, and apply some high strength locking compound to the nut, on the first thread or so should be enough. I use loctite 603 currently, but any "retainer" or "studlock" should do the trick, provided the nut and shaft are clean and DRY when you assemble them.
Paul can this be done easily with the box on the car?
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Heple
Paul can this be done easily with the box on the car?
Not on a type R as the you access to the top of the box to remove the transfer case.

Paul
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 06:00 PM
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From: Lancashire : MY99 UK Turbo
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Mines a MY99 UK Turbo.

How easy is it to remove the transfer box?

Will i be able to tighten the 5th gear retaining nut once the transfer box is removed or is there more i need to do?

Craig
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 06:22 PM
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Heple, I did mine in situ, which is a MY00 UK car. I think he means that the type R box has a DCCD so is different. A UK car should be no problem.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 07:01 PM
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How long did it take you?

Is it just,

1. Remove Prop
2. Take transfer box off
3. Tighten nut
4. Replace tranfer box & prop

Does the transfer box just unbolt and remove as one is there nothin else i need to do before i remove it?

Craig.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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If you have a look at some of the pics in my thread (slow evolution) in projects it shows a MY99 Uk box in various bits. Might help you to see whats going on.

Dan.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 07:43 PM
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From: Lancashire : MY99 UK Turbo
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CLICKY ABOVE

CLICK PIC FOR DAN'S THREAD


From the pic above, i think i've worked out where the 5th gear retaining nut is (Circled in the pic)

So,

Do i just unbolt the transfer box, slide it off and tighten the nut with loctite

Last edited by Heple; Jan 3, 2006 at 08:10 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 09:32 PM
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The type R box is different from the UK99 box due to the DCCD. Which means to remove the transfer box you need to take the 'lid' off the transfer case and undo the locking screw that secures the arm for the reverse/5th spring. The phase 2 conventional transfer box is different and the reason seems to be specifically to allow the removal of it in situ.

Paul
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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Hi Heple, It took me about 10 hours, but that was taking my time as I'd never done it before. Not quite as simple as you suggest but not far off. That is the nut in the picture. It's 35mm and most sockets are too thick to access it. Most difficult thing was holding the shaft while tightening the nut. Mine came loose 6 months after the warrenty had run out. The job had been done under warrenty but when I opened no loctite had been used and the peening was pretty poor.
I think you should start a new thread to stop this one being hijacked. When you start it keep posting, if i can't help there will be plenty here who will.

Last edited by JamieMiller; Jan 3, 2006 at 11:08 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 11:21 PM
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well striped it down in dinner today, not so good it reqs first motion shaft, diff bearings and prob fith synchro. i am not a happy chap cos i bet no one has one and then when i do find one i will have to cut off my arm and give it them

its always the way i go to do one job and then find two more
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JamieMiller
I think you should start a new thread to stop this one being hijacked. When you start it keep posting, if i can't help there will be plenty here who will.


your fine boys good to see i am not the only one with box prob's
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 07:47 AM
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Mark, you do not have exclusivity on one job leads to 5 others..I have!
Same for us all.
I had a UK turbo with a loose nut, repaired by dealer in car, perfect after that.

There are several real transmission guys on here, but one is David at www.apiengines.com who might help you with parts etc.

Graham.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 911
There are several real transmission guys on here, but one is David at www.apiengines.com who might help you with parts etc.

Graham.
david is a top bloke,(dont know if he likes stress but he does well at taking away mine) i think this job is starting pee us both off now. turns out the box has a uk caseing with RA gears in it. should of left this box in the shed and put it off a little longer, only trouble is when it works its great! so it makes me want to fix it!!
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 07:38 PM
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Mark, what do you mean by "uk box"? Does that mean the DCCD isn't fitted? i am wondering what there is to tell you it's a UK box, and not for instance a TypeR V-ltd with the longer 5th gear, which is the same ratio (before final drive) as a UK 5th gear.

Paul
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Zen Performance
Mark, what do you mean by "uk box"? Does that mean the DCCD isn't fitted? i am wondering what there is to tell you it's a UK box, and not for instance a TypeR V-ltd with the longer 5th gear, which is the same ratio (before final drive) as a UK 5th gear.

Paul
gears are from a RA, it has DCCD bolted to the back (well did have till i took it off to split the box) but the gbox housing is just a uk.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 08:33 PM
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There is no difference between the main casing of a UK box and a Type R box, so I fail to understand your problem at the moment.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 09:21 PM
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when you think you have a sti type R box, then you go to order parts for it. and the person on the other end of the phone asks for the number off the box,(code) so you tell them and they reply with "IM SORRY BUT THATS NOT A TYPE R BOX YOU HAVE THERE" then thats a problem for me because i cant go and order gears and things if i am not 100% sure that they are the ones for my box.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 09:32 PM
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So the real problem, is that you don't know what you have in there. Your proper transmission code is on the stamped VIN plate on the pass side suspension turret. If you have the box apart, it should be relatively easy to identify Type R internals. If you only have the case from the Uk box you have nothing to worry about.

Paul
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 09:41 PM
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From: "Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary...Now that's what gets you."
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Originally Posted by Zen Performance
So the real problem, is that you don't know what you have in there. Your proper transmission code is on the stamped VIN plate on the pass side suspension turret. If you have the box apart, it should be relatively easy to identify Type R internals. If you only have the case from the Uk box you have nothing to worry about.

Paul
correct. i could not order parts i thought i had a 1999 type R box (standard) but it turns out i have a box with 1997 (approx) RA gears in.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 01:02 PM
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so then i am after a RA box or input shaft. would like to rebuild mine but i dont think i stand much of a chance in finding a input shaft really.

inless someone has a broken box and first and second are ok on the shaft.
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