aerofoil

HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP !!

Just fitted my cold air induction kit and i think i've killed my MY02 Sti. It cuts out and idels very irratically. I cant even drive it out of the garage !!

does any one know what the problem is. should I refit the standard air box etc.

any help would be gratly appreciated.
thanks

john banks

It will probably be running dangerously lean. It is a blessing you can't drive it out the garage.

What sort of cold air induction is it?

Suggest refit the airbox unless you have a mapper on hand to instantly remap your ECU to suit the new MAF calibration it will likely need.

aerofoil

Thanks, for a prompt response. Its the first time to use a forum to discuss a problem. I got the kit from a shop on ebay. it is basically a copy of the K&N chrome pipe kit that is available for the sti. I'll swap it back at first light. I thought these kits were better for the turbo etc allowing it to breath easier. i guess i was mistaken.

cheers John

john banks

Your induction is unlikely to be a restriction whilst you are still on the original turbo.

The problem is that the airflow pattern can be altered just before the airflow meter making it misread. Sometimes the airflow meter is mounted in a new pipe of different diameter, which also makes it misread.

Worst case is an engine failure when you first go on boost because it is so lean it blows up the engine. The errors in fuelling can be 30% or more.

aerofoil

I appreciate your advice John. I'm gonna put everything back to as it was.

Would it be ok to remove and bypass the resonator box? do you think this would pose any problems to the standard set up if I performed a resonatorectomy??
(see link below)
http://www.scoobytuner.com/tuning/?tSfID1=19&tuningID=9

john banks

The resonator is sort of "flow past" anyway. Some STIs are getting 100 BHP over stock with it still in.

What is the spec of the car otherwise?

alloy

You need to reset the ecu after installing it, to do this disconnect the battery and hold the brake pedal down for 5 or so secs, then reconnect and it wont stall. However I recommend that you put the airbox back on as when i had my car mapped they found that it was more of a hindrence than a help just my 2p's worth....

alloy

Just to add your sound to chop off the resonator box, no effect really, bit more of an induction noise and i suppose more cold air flowing in from the wing. I have cut mine off an no problems at all

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

not to sure about the newer cars, but has the maf been disconnected? symptoms sound maf related.

aerofoil

CHEERS GUYS for all your advice

I put the Standard air box back in and it seems works fine, only thing is at 60mph ish it doesnt pull as good as it did prior to resonator removal. feels like the engine is struggling to accelerate where as before it just took off! might it be the fact that its now sucking hot air from the engine bay and not getting any COLD air forced in to it by the front air intake inlet? there's an rubber elbow pipe that ive seen advertised to connect the front air inlet to the air filter box.

My car is an MY02 WRX STi UK (standard form) with a blow off valve and strut braces. nothing else modified. only other thing i got custom made was a front car bra by Colgan to protect it from the chips and scratches of motorway driving.

alloy

Have you put the ram air feed back on? also you could run a pipe from the inner wing up to the intake to get a bit more cold air in and put a free flowing filter in to help it breathe easier!

aerofoil

No have left it off as i need a pipe to join it to the air filter box sine the resonator box has been removed. sounds nice but doesnt go as quick for some reason. might try put the induction kit back on and reset the ecu as described earlier, but am alittle apprehensive about this option.

marklemac

JEEEEEEEEZ,

Put the ram pipe back on. Its there so you get cold air directly from the front of the car. Without it, your sucking in major hot air from the engine bay. Believe me, I know, I've done this before and measured the temps.

If you leave the ram pipe off, you MUST run some ducting from the front bumper up into the airbox, and you must also block off all the gaps so it s a nice seal.

The gain from this mod is a few degrees running temp on the inlet, but the best gain is the speed in which the temps drop after you have been in stationary traffic.

But as John says, any alteration to the air inlet and you really must get your car remapped.

Oh, and the blow off valve you have won't be helping either

TBQH your better off saving your money and doing an exhuast mod first and a remap. The standard airbox and feed is perfectly fine for well over 350bhp and probably a lot more. (Look at the Type 25).

You only really need to dump the air box when fitting a FMIC.

Good luck in resolving your problems.

alloy

Yep put the feed back on! my cars developing 380 ish and is fine on the orignal box!

aerofoil

thank you very much guys.

i really appreciate this. as you can tell i'm a bit new to all this mod stuff. should i get rid of the dump valve? and replace it with the stock. also i'll get a rubber elbow to join the air ram to air box. should i replace the resonator box or not? i'll stick the stuff on ebay and get an exhaust mod as advised. it could do with sounding a bit more 'gruff'.

aerofoil

just ordered a air pipe elbow. hopefully now get the best of both worlds...no messing with the MAF and nice engine sound

stumpymonkey

Had similar problem before when changing filter set up, absolutely gutless on tickover, ok up the revs. Problem turned out to be connecting hose leaking v slightly

Make sure all hoses connected properly. Any leaks and air can air bypass the flow meter, hence ecu thinks less air in.