CRANK SHAFT SEIZED
anyone had this big problem if so what did you do to solve the problem, i no ive got 2 options a full rebuild or a new engine i dont really want to put another engine in but it is the cheaper option, any advice more than welcome. cheers scott
Std bearings are alloy and if the engine runs out of oil for what ever reason it will seize or worse weld the rod and bearing to the crank journal and throw the rod out the block. If you rebuild using tri metal bearings that have a copper/lead coating you tend not to get this welding porcess happening as the copper/lead acts as a kind of lub and the heat is not generated that causes the welding seize, thay are also heavier duty. Do not reuse the crank unless its ground the ***** sparked out and cleaned. Your best bet will be to get a new or good second hand crank. Mark laterall performance should be able to supply a new crank. If you go for a regrind .25-.5-.75 bearings are available but the more you grind the crank the weaker it becomes due to the reduction in the undercut radiuos that gives the crank its strength. Check the con-rod is unmarked and round as this is the support for the bearing.
Steve
2l std journal size is 52mm/2.0472 inches
Steve
2l std journal size is 52mm/2.0472 inches
Last edited by S,M,G; Aug 11, 2005 at 10:33 PM.
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From: Crowbuck Scoobies, Near the rolling sea, where the weather is calm and still! Come on Sing along!
Had my engine rebuilt with uprated bearings and they lasted about 4000 miles.
No smoke, no funny noises, no dash warning lights. Plenty of oil. But still destroyed my crank and rod.
Bought new STI short block for around a grand which was nice and easy to swap. Everything fitted to it fine.
Wouldn't bother rebuilding unless you've got deep pockets.
No smoke, no funny noises, no dash warning lights. Plenty of oil. But still destroyed my crank and rod.
Bought new STI short block for around a grand which was nice and easy to swap. Everything fitted to it fine.
Wouldn't bother rebuilding unless you've got deep pockets.
my mate that has got the car at the moment that is gonna be doin the work on it did some ringin round yesterday and apparantly there is nowhere he can find that will re-grind the crank and there is no new cranks in England so it will have to be inported from japan. where would i get a block from and can you buy re-con ones. i can get the full rebuild for around £2200 thats with new crank, oil pump, new belt, gasket sets, etc etc etc + labour. carnt make my mind up what to do.
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
Also if steve says you can grind a crank then you can. Steve and mark at lateral had a fair bit to do with my engine
can you supply me some contact numbers for this places please mate
Originally Posted by XK-R
I'll add another note to this.
If your mate has been ringing around and found nothing, he isn't looking very hard. There is Lateral, GGR, Roger Clarke Motorsport etc. etc. ALL with cranks in stock.
If your mate has been ringing around and found nothing, he isn't looking very hard. There is Lateral, GGR, Roger Clarke Motorsport etc. etc. ALL with cranks in stock.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 15,239
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
just spoke to mark at lateral very helpful, looks like hes gonna supply me a new crank, he said not to re-grind it as it can cause lots of problems. so its time for spendin some money and maybe even forged pistons.
Originally Posted by S,M,G
Std bearings are alloy and if the engine runs out of oil for what ever reason it will seize or worse weld the rod and bearing to the crank journal and throw the rod out the block. If you rebuild using tri metal bearings that have a copper/lead coating you tend not to get this welding porcess happening as the copper/lead acts as a kind of lub and the heat is not generated that causes the welding seize, thay are also heavier duty. Do not reuse the crank unless its ground the ***** sparked out and cleaned. Your best bet will be to get a new or good second hand crank. Mark laterall performance should be able to supply a new crank. If you go for a regrind .25-.5-.75 bearings are available but the more you grind the crank the weaker it becomes due to the reduction in the undercut radiuos that gives the crank its strength. Check the con-rod is unmarked and round as this is the support for the bearing.
Steve
2l std journal size is 52mm/2.0472 inches
Steve
2l std journal size is 52mm/2.0472 inches
Mine (STi 5) were copper lead as standard, would have thought all would be.
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From: @Junc 12, M40 Warwicksh; 01926 614522 CV33 9PL -Use 9GX for Satnav. South Mids Alcatek ECu dealer
We keep all cranks in stock - never been known to run out as we use so many. give me a call and l'll get you sorted - properly and with sensible advice.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com 01925 614333
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com 01925 614333
Originally Posted by djliveasy
my mate that has got the car at the moment that is gonna be doin the work on it did some ringin round yesterday and apparantly there is nowhere he can find that will re-grind the crank and there is no new cranks in England so it will have to be inported from japan. where would i get a block from and can you buy re-con ones. i can get the full rebuild for around £2200 thats with new crank, oil pump, new belt, gasket sets, etc etc etc + labour. carnt make my mind up what to do.
when i said no cranks in england i ment at main dealer where he tried. im not gonna re-grind the crank ive been talked out of that for a few reasons mainly the problems in cleaning afterwards, so its not worth it for the price of a new crank.
Never ever seen a copper/lead bearing from std, maybe someone has already been there. There is always the chance the factory ran out of supplies and used another source. The one thing that springs to mind is that the wrc engine ive taken apart have had copper/lead bearings that carry the same simble on the back as the o/e ones, the only other type i have seen are acl. The o/e bearings ive seen in i guess 50 std engines have been steel backed with a alloy overlay as did my MY00 RA. Dont now what the other lads have found with the ACL bearings but i have found even when the big end has not gone, when striped the bearing has lost its tension in the rod (no nip) this will result in a failer sooner or later. I think ive sorted this issue but need more testing before i can comment. There is no dout that det will cause this but not the case in the engines i speak of.
Steve.
Engines had about 450 to 550 ish bhp.
Steve.
Engines had about 450 to 550 ish bhp.
S,M,G
These are some of the shells out of my car:

First time ive stripped one of these engines so dont have your experience but you can see the copper/lead on the right. As you say maybe the factory ran out? Engine hasnt been stripped before.
ACL ones going back in.
These are some of the shells out of my car:

First time ive stripped one of these engines so dont have your experience but you can see the copper/lead on the right. As you say maybe the factory ran out? Engine hasnt been stripped before.

ACL ones going back in.
Originally Posted by Triple X
S,M,G
These are some of the shells out of my car:

First time ive stripped one of these engines so dont have your experience but you can see the copper/lead on the right. As you say maybe the factory ran out? Engine hasnt been stripped before.
ACL ones going back in.
These are some of the shells out of my car:

First time ive stripped one of these engines so dont have your experience but you can see the copper/lead on the right. As you say maybe the factory ran out? Engine hasnt been stripped before.

ACL ones going back in.
Steve.
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