I've just tried joining these two together and noticed about 1.5cm difference in offset of the prop bolts and the diff drive flange. Anybody got any advice.

I have measued the old prop as well and a definate diierence in the bolt pattern, Is this usual and how can I fix it.

Mark

 

Mark, we've experienced this problem 3 times now - you're the third!! The others have re-drilled the holes in the appropriate places and all is fine. Both post on here - Nathan somebody from Kent and tweenierob.

It isn't a consistent problem that l can get to grips with as it is only a problem of three out of over 20 box kits sold.

Re-drill seems the best option.

Good luck David
APi Engines /APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com

 

Cheers David

Wanted to check first. Wish I'd checked before fitting the diff.

Ignore my pm

Mark

 

Mark, if your original diff flange will fit ok, just swap that over The big nut comes undone easily and you cannot disturb the insides of the diff. All you have to do is tighten the nut up again with a long handled bar.

Loctite is advisable but not desperately necessary.

David I pm'ed a reply ditto you, just ignore

 

Mark, swopping the diff flange is easy as David says.
I made a simple strap to hold the flange and bought a breaker bar. Click, off it all came no probs.

Graham.

 

Mark,
Are you using the standard prop and diff? I used an auto prop and a 3.9 diff and all was fine bar a bit of machineing to the rear diff mount.

Nathan

 

Using the "standard" 6sp prop and a rear diff supplied by David. The new diff has the same drive flange as my old one.

 

the auto prop is the same length as the classic prop (new age prop bit longer?) my box was supplied by david (api) and came with the auto prop.

nathan

 

Autoprop is 20mm shorter than the Manual Equivalent.

As is the OEM 6spd prop.

David

 

But has as anybody had this problem where the bolt patterns are different ?

 

Yes, i have...

I had to get the diff flange machined with the correct bolt pattern.

Remove the diff flange as stated, take the flange and the prop into a machine shop and get them to redrill the holes.

Failing that if you have a decent drill stand DIY.

Is yours DCCD by the way?

Rob

 

Cheers for the reply Rob.

I don't believe so. How can you check?

Can you easily release the prop joint or is it best to take the whole prop.

Mark

 

Quite simple really. If it was supplied as a kit, and it doesn’t fit, send it back IMO.

 

Lol i was waiting for that sometimes it isnt as easy as that though... sometimes the supplier sends the wrong kit more than once

Take the whole prop i'm afraid mate.

Rob

 

just get the thing offered up, centre punch the flange and drill the holes, as long as it can locate it'self centrally..

if you cant allign it centrally then forget doing it diy style.

David

 

One DIY method:
1
If holes are all on the same pcd, remove diff flange.
2
Using one existing bolt hole matched, bolt flange and prop flange tight.
3
Mark and drill each remaining 3 holes with prop flanges still bolted.(8mm dia?)
For each hole drilled through add a bolt and nut to improve clamping as you go along.
4
Indelibly mark the flanges to ensure they can be put back 'mark for mark'
5
Dissassemble it all, deburr all holes, replace the diff flange and install prop, guarenteed to fit!

Graham.

 

It can centralise itself.

Rob

 

But you cant get a bolt in properly to start with, or not dead centrally

Rob

edited to add the bolt holes are different PCD

 

A good engineer can!
Take your point about accuracy, a machine shop is the best, just applying 'Hot Rod' engineering.
As it does centralise itself, balance should be ok.
Drilling first to create a small 'centre mark' using the drill same size as the existing bolt hole shows where to pilot dril, and then open out to 8.? mm dia.

Graham.

 

Graham,

if you use the same size drill to mark it then you dont need to open out

Your assuming people know to use smaller drill bits before..

And you can forget undoing the nut that holds the flange on - it aint going to come off.

David

 

i have undone two without any probs that i can recall?

Handbrake on, breaker bar

Rob

 

Note to David Wallis; Eat more Shredded Wheat


David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com

 

I had to remove a flange off the RA diff I fitted. Bought a 600mm breaker bar and a nice new 6 sided socket (1/2 inch drive.)
Made a stop bar to stop the flange turning, and pulled very very very hard.
Came off with a good '****, I've broken the bar' crack.
Previous attempts broke the tommy bar, 2 x12 point sockets and a ratchet.
The bar / socket cost £15.

As David knows, I'm a skinny wimp so it can be done!

Graham

ps David, I hang my head in great shame, just remembered I owe you $$$
Will send a cheque this week. Gulp, no more free coffee at API.

 

Thats the best thing you've said in a long time !!

I was wondering how to feed my kids this weekend.............

David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com

 

I tried undoing one off the car

David

 

PMSL! @wallis...

R.

 

Wallis trying to do something ... blimey, that doesnt happen often !

 

Old thread, but I need to check this....
I shortened my classic manual prop with 60mm, since that's what I was told, do I get this right David that you mean the difference is not 60mm, but only 20mm ?

The prop was completely refurbished and balanced (three times...), but the shudder is STILL there. Tomorrow I will fit another prop (auto classic) just to verify the problem still is in the prop itself.

I'm still a bit confused about the length of the props, could someone tell me just once more that is the newage STi prop the same length as the classic auto one ? In other words, can I try to get meself a 02-05 STi propshaft and that will be the right length? But then I could have the problem with the difference in offset of the prop bolts and the diff drive flange as described in this thread...

Does anyone have a decent condition auto prop they would like to ship to Finland?

 

Its 60mm difference between auto/6MT and 5MT.

I _think_ the new-age is 5mm longer than the classic, but don't take that as gospel.

From what I found, where the diff flange has the wrong hole pattern the centering ring will also be wrong so just drilling other holes seems a bit of a bodge.

 

There is a problem in one direction - can't remember which for sure but I think uprating a New age car from 5 sp to 6 sp that the centre mount of the auto GC8 prop is out of line by 5 - 10 degrees or so.

You need to keep the prop driveline as straight as possible if there is a dogleg in the position of the centre support then it will vibrate.

David APi Impreza / APi Engines
www.apiengines.com