STi 6sp prop to classic diff, won't fit!!
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STi 6sp prop to classic diff, won't fit!!
I've just tried joining these two together and noticed about 1.5cm difference in offset of the prop bolts and the diff drive flange. Anybody got any advice.
I have measued the old prop as well and a definate diierence in the bolt pattern, Is this usual and how can I fix it.
Mark
I have measued the old prop as well and a definate diierence in the bolt pattern, Is this usual and how can I fix it.
Mark
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Originally Posted by Mark A
I've just tried joining these two together and noticed about 1.5cm difference in offset of the prop bolts and the diff drive flange. Anybody got any advice.
I have measued the old prop as well and a definate diierence in the bolt pattern, Is this usual and how can I fix it.
Mark
I have measued the old prop as well and a definate diierence in the bolt pattern, Is this usual and how can I fix it.
Mark
It isn't a consistent problem that l can get to grips with as it is only a problem of three out of over 20 box kits sold.
Re-drill seems the best option.
Good luck David
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Originally Posted by Mark A
Cheers David
Wanted to check first. Wish I'd checked before fitting the diff.
Ignore my pm Mark
Wanted to check first. Wish I'd checked before fitting the diff.
Ignore my pm Mark
Loctite is advisable but not desperately necessary.
David I pm'ed a reply ditto you, just ignore
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Mark,
Are you using the standard prop and diff? I used an auto prop and a 3.9 diff and all was fine bar a bit of machineing to the rear diff mount.
Nathan
Are you using the standard prop and diff? I used an auto prop and a 3.9 diff and all was fine bar a bit of machineing to the rear diff mount.
Nathan
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the auto prop is the same length as the classic prop (new age prop bit longer?) my box was supplied by david (api) and came with the auto prop.
nathan
nathan
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Yes, i have...
I had to get the diff flange machined with the correct bolt pattern.
Remove the diff flange as stated, take the flange and the prop into a machine shop and get them to redrill the holes.
Failing that if you have a decent drill stand DIY.
Is yours DCCD by the way?
Rob
I had to get the diff flange machined with the correct bolt pattern.
Remove the diff flange as stated, take the flange and the prop into a machine shop and get them to redrill the holes.
Failing that if you have a decent drill stand DIY.
Is yours DCCD by the way?
Rob
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Lol i was waiting for that sometimes it isnt as easy as that though... sometimes the supplier sends the wrong kit more than once
Take the whole prop i'm afraid mate.
Rob
Take the whole prop i'm afraid mate.
Rob
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just get the thing offered up, centre punch the flange and drill the holes, as long as it can locate it'self centrally..
if you cant allign it centrally then forget doing it diy style.
David
if you cant allign it centrally then forget doing it diy style.
David
#16
One DIY method:
1
If holes are all on the same pcd, remove diff flange.
2
Using one existing bolt hole matched, bolt flange and prop flange tight.
3
Mark and drill each remaining 3 holes with prop flanges still bolted.(8mm dia?)
For each hole drilled through add a bolt and nut to improve clamping as you go along.
4
Indelibly mark the flanges to ensure they can be put back 'mark for mark'
5
Dissassemble it all, deburr all holes, replace the diff flange and install prop, guarenteed to fit!
Graham.
1
If holes are all on the same pcd, remove diff flange.
2
Using one existing bolt hole matched, bolt flange and prop flange tight.
3
Mark and drill each remaining 3 holes with prop flanges still bolted.(8mm dia?)
For each hole drilled through add a bolt and nut to improve clamping as you go along.
4
Indelibly mark the flanges to ensure they can be put back 'mark for mark'
5
Dissassemble it all, deburr all holes, replace the diff flange and install prop, guarenteed to fit!
Graham.
Last edited by 911; 18 April 2005 at 12:56 PM. Reason: bad english
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But you cant get a bolt in properly to start with, or not dead centrally
Rob
edited to add the bolt holes are different PCD
Rob
edited to add the bolt holes are different PCD
Last edited by tweenierob; 18 April 2005 at 01:00 PM.
#19
A good engineer can!
Take your point about accuracy, a machine shop is the best, just applying 'Hot Rod' engineering.
As it does centralise itself, balance should be ok.
Drilling first to create a small 'centre mark' using the drill same size as the existing bolt hole shows where to pilot dril, and then open out to 8.? mm dia.
Graham.
Take your point about accuracy, a machine shop is the best, just applying 'Hot Rod' engineering.
As it does centralise itself, balance should be ok.
Drilling first to create a small 'centre mark' using the drill same size as the existing bolt hole shows where to pilot dril, and then open out to 8.? mm dia.
Graham.
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Graham,
if you use the same size drill to mark it then you dont need to open out
Your assuming people know to use smaller drill bits before..
And you can forget undoing the nut that holds the flange on - it aint going to come off.
David
if you use the same size drill to mark it then you dont need to open out
Your assuming people know to use smaller drill bits before..
And you can forget undoing the nut that holds the flange on - it aint going to come off.
David
#23
I had to remove a flange off the RA diff I fitted. Bought a 600mm breaker bar and a nice new 6 sided socket (1/2 inch drive.)
Made a stop bar to stop the flange turning, and pulled very very very hard.
Came off with a good '****, I've broken the bar' crack.
Previous attempts broke the tommy bar, 2 x12 point sockets and a ratchet.
The bar / socket cost £15.
As David knows, I'm a skinny wimp so it can be done!
Graham
ps David, I hang my head in great shame, just remembered I owe you $$$
Will send a cheque this week. Gulp, no more free coffee at API.
Made a stop bar to stop the flange turning, and pulled very very very hard.
Came off with a good '****, I've broken the bar' crack.
Previous attempts broke the tommy bar, 2 x12 point sockets and a ratchet.
The bar / socket cost £15.
As David knows, I'm a skinny wimp so it can be done!
Graham
ps David, I hang my head in great shame, just remembered I owe you $$$
Will send a cheque this week. Gulp, no more free coffee at API.
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Originally Posted by 911
I had to remove a flange off the RA diff I fitted. Bought a 600mm breaker bar and a nice new 6 sided socket (1/2 inch drive.)
Made a stop bar to stop the flange turning, and pulled very very very hard.
Came off with a good '****, I've broken the bar' crack.
Previous attempts broke the tommy bar, 2 x12 point sockets and a ratchet.
The bar / socket cost £15.
As David knows, I'm a skinny wimp so it can be done!
Graham
ps David, I hang my head in great shame, just remembered I owe you $$$
Will send a cheque this week. Gulp, no more free coffee at API.
Made a stop bar to stop the flange turning, and pulled very very very hard.
Came off with a good '****, I've broken the bar' crack.
Previous attempts broke the tommy bar, 2 x12 point sockets and a ratchet.
The bar / socket cost £15.
As David knows, I'm a skinny wimp so it can be done!
Graham
ps David, I hang my head in great shame, just remembered I owe you $$$
Will send a cheque this week. Gulp, no more free coffee at API.
Thats the best thing you've said in a long time !!
I was wondering how to feed my kids this weekend.............
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
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Originally Posted by David_Wallis
Autoprop is 20mm shorter than the Manual Equivalent.
As is the OEM 6spd prop.
David
As is the OEM 6spd prop.
David
I shortened my classic manual prop with 60mm, since that's what I was told, do I get this right David that you mean the difference is not 60mm, but only 20mm ?
The prop was completely refurbished and balanced (three times...), but the shudder is STILL there. Tomorrow I will fit another prop (auto classic) just to verify the problem still is in the prop itself.
I'm still a bit confused about the length of the props, could someone tell me just once more that is the newage STi prop the same length as the classic auto one ? In other words, can I try to get meself a 02-05 STi propshaft and that will be the right length? But then I could have the problem with the difference in offset of the prop bolts and the diff drive flange as described in this thread...
Does anyone have a decent condition auto prop they would like to ship to Finland?
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Its 60mm difference between auto/6MT and 5MT.
I _think_ the new-age is 5mm longer than the classic, but don't take that as gospel.
From what I found, where the diff flange has the wrong hole pattern the centering ring will also be wrong so just drilling other holes seems a bit of a bodge.
I _think_ the new-age is 5mm longer than the classic, but don't take that as gospel.
From what I found, where the diff flange has the wrong hole pattern the centering ring will also be wrong so just drilling other holes seems a bit of a bodge.
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There is a problem in one direction - can't remember which for sure but I think uprating a New age car from 5 sp to 6 sp that the centre mount of the auto GC8 prop is out of line by 5 - 10 degrees or so.
You need to keep the prop driveline as straight as possible if there is a dogleg in the position of the centre support then it will vibrate.
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You need to keep the prop driveline as straight as possible if there is a dogleg in the position of the centre support then it will vibrate.
David APi Impreza / APi Engines
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