You know that little brass restrictor that has a 1.25mm hole drilled in it to allow a MY00 UK car achieve 13.9psi of boost, well here is my dilemma/quandry.

With the 1.25mm restrictor, the car is only seeing 11 psi WOT in 5th 10psi WOT in 4th

It was changed to a 1mm restrictor but unfortunatley the old girl was spiking at about 18psi and then being reigned in by the ecu back to about 10 and then increasing to hold at about 12. Obviously having 18 blowing it's way through the old girl isn't good practice.

I need to try a 1.1mm restrictor, but they seem to be really hard to come by and I don't really want to continue to pester the garage for something which, lets face it, is really meanial in the big picture. "Stop rebuilding that customers car and earning a living doing proper jobs and spend a few hours sourcing me a tiny bit of brass and drill a hole in it for a few quid" You get my drift

Now I could go out, source a brass restrictor, then go get a drill bit (Or 10) and faff around doing it myself. ER ........... No thanks!

OR

A little birdy tells me that carefull adjustment of the actuator arm can achieve the same thing seeing as what I'm trying to achieve is marginal.

Anyone tried this. Did it work or is it just to simple to ever be true

I've just had some work done on the engine so I'm assuming that the mechanics would have spotted any dodgy old split pipework and i've also tested the gauge and it is correct.

Any other suggestions as to why boost should be off the mark slightly with the oe restrictor in place?

I need me boost back cos my VTA sounds like a girl sneezing

Gridlock

 

adjusting the arm can hold the wastegate shut longer thus giving you more boost.

or manual boost controller (Bleed valve)

monitor boost carefully if playing with this tho.

what's wrong with drilling the 1mm restrictor?

 

I haven't got a 1.1mm drill bit and I figured that it would take me 20 mins to go get one. It would only take 2 mins to achieve the same with the arm, the only danger being that I drop the circlip

 

Try three half turns tighter for about 3 PSI from memory.

ECU's boost target is 13.7 PSI. OEM restrictor bore is 1.20mm.

 

Where would I be without your eerie ability to remember OEM stats

So does it do the same job then? i.e it's not knackering up another system is it? If it's the same, why did they bother with a restrictor? For example, half a turn is approx 3PSI so why didn't they just make the actuator arm 13.7 half turns shorter

Just wondered

 

Shouldn't knacker it too much. It isn't the same though. Restrictor is needed because the OEM 2 port solenoid can't vent enough air away to give decent boost levels.

 

you can buy different kind of restrictor's at any local scooter shop

 

Sorry to hijack the thread, but am in need of a 1mm restrictor and i am finding hard to source one. Can anyone help?

Thanks

Bill

 

What I did was ditch the std 2 port boost solenoid by taking the pipes off and fiting in car boost control, that way you can decide what levels you want instead of the ecu (HKS EVC V)

AP

 

Didn't find that adjusting the actuator made much difference, just overshoots the boost target.

 

Yes, that is what closed loop control does (unless you manipulate the MAP signal as well, this is effectively how a Superchip works and keeps closed loop boost control at a higher level), but the Gridlock's car is undershooting target.

 

get a larger one and fill with solder and redrill?

 

Ah, I see! Suppose I should just stop being a cheapskate and spend some propper money on a boost controller like AP2K suggests

 

Dawes is in danger of going back on here Ran it fine for nearly 3 years at 15psi
A restrictor, A restrictor, my kingdom for a bloody restrictor