I need a new clutch should i have a lightened fly wheel?
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Joined: Jun 2004
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I need a new clutch should i have a lightened fly wheel?
Guys,
I just want some advice as I need a new clutch should i have a lightened fly wheel while its being done, and what are the pros and cons of lightened Fly wheels???
Thanks in advance.
I just want some advice as I need a new clutch should i have a lightened fly wheel while its being done, and what are the pros and cons of lightened Fly wheels???
Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Behind the wheel of a Time Attack R33 GTR
Im with steve (althoguh im yet to do it myself)
I think the Pros is mainly engine pickup, acceleration, etc
Cons mainly the reduced engine braking....but if you rely more on your actual brakes than enigne braking (as i do) then youll be fine
There seems to be a few different weights you can go for too, the standard wheel is about 11kgs, there are ones that i think are 8.6 (a good compromise), 6.8kg (what ill go for), and 4.7kg (dont even think about engine braking)
Like they say, if youve got the cash to do it, do it, just try not to stall the first couple of drives
I think the Pros is mainly engine pickup, acceleration, etc
Cons mainly the reduced engine braking....but if you rely more on your actual brakes than enigne braking (as i do) then youll be fine
There seems to be a few different weights you can go for too, the standard wheel is about 11kgs, there are ones that i think are 8.6 (a good compromise), 6.8kg (what ill go for), and 4.7kg (dont even think about engine braking)
Like they say, if youve got the cash to do it, do it, just try not to stall the first couple of drives
Originally Posted by Neilo
Im with steve (althoguh im yet to do it myself)
I think the Pros is mainly engine pickup, acceleration, etc
Cons mainly the reduced engine braking....but if you rely more on your actual brakes than enigne braking (as i do) then youll be fine
There seems to be a few different weights you can go for too, the standard wheel is about 11kgs, there are ones that i think are 8.6 (a good compromise), 6.8kg (what ill go for), and 4.7kg (dont even think about engine braking)
Like they say, if youve got the cash to do it, do it, just try not to stall the first couple of drives
I think the Pros is mainly engine pickup, acceleration, etc
Cons mainly the reduced engine braking....but if you rely more on your actual brakes than enigne braking (as i do) then youll be fine
There seems to be a few different weights you can go for too, the standard wheel is about 11kgs, there are ones that i think are 8.6 (a good compromise), 6.8kg (what ill go for), and 4.7kg (dont even think about engine braking)
Like they say, if youve got the cash to do it, do it, just try not to stall the first couple of drives
im picking my car up from the garage after having lightened pulleys fitted and this is supposedly as good
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Joined: May 2004
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You should really fit a lightened front crank pully at the same time as the fywheel to keep the crank in 'balance'
The flywheel and front pully are paired to control resonant balance. Just changing the flywheel upsets that balance.
Besides which the lighter pully adds to the light flywheel effect.
911
The flywheel and front pully are paired to control resonant balance. Just changing the flywheel upsets that balance.
Besides which the lighter pully adds to the light flywheel effect.
911
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From: No longer Japan !
By reducing the mass of the flywheel you will reduce the rotational inertia of the engine. Since
angular acceleration = Torque/rotational inertia
by reducing the inertia you will gain an engine which accelerates more quickly.
You will get an engine which declerates more quickly too (pumping losses and friction of the engine are the same). This is not really a problem, but it might take a little while to get used to the new engine characteristics to make smooth gear changes (mathching engine revs).
Similarly with less rotational energy stored in the flywheel you might find it a little more tricky to pull away smoothly and slowly from a standstill. Not too much of a problem unless you really go for an ultimate lightweight clutch which you will curse every time you are in a nose to tail traffic jam.
angular acceleration = Torque/rotational inertia
by reducing the inertia you will gain an engine which accelerates more quickly.
You will get an engine which declerates more quickly too (pumping losses and friction of the engine are the same). This is not really a problem, but it might take a little while to get used to the new engine characteristics to make smooth gear changes (mathching engine revs).
Similarly with less rotational energy stored in the flywheel you might find it a little more tricky to pull away smoothly and slowly from a standstill. Not too much of a problem unless you really go for an ultimate lightweight clutch which you will curse every time you are in a nose to tail traffic jam.
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This is interesting reading, am just awaiting my new engine to turn up from API which will have ported headers and lightened & balanced flywheel(7kg)
When chatting to Dave @ API, he didn't mention any of this and that I might need to fit a lightened front crank pully at the same time as the fywheel to keep the crank in 'balance'. I've just had to order a new clutch as well, which I've only gone for a standard DELFI(Borg and Beck) model from AS Performance.
So will be very interesting to see what the end result is like next week when its back on the road
ps All this is for my 94 WRX type RA
When chatting to Dave @ API, he didn't mention any of this and that I might need to fit a lightened front crank pully at the same time as the fywheel to keep the crank in 'balance'. I've just had to order a new clutch as well, which I've only gone for a standard DELFI(Borg and Beck) model from AS Performance.
So will be very interesting to see what the end result is like next week when its back on the road
ps All this is for my 94 WRX type RA
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