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How to change a backbox

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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 08:38 AM
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Default How to change a backbox

Basic one for many of you I'm sure.

What are the steps to change a backbox on a Classic?

I assume the two bolts from the center pipe and the 3 rubber mounts for me to tackle and thats it?

A bit cold at the moment to go lying under the car... just want some quick info on this before I do the swap on Sat.

4.5" Mega HKS cannon... for something a bit more subtle...

Thanks
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 08:48 AM
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Yep as you say.

spray WD40 on the bolts, think they are about 13mm.. a ratchet spanner and a normal ring spanner are best bet.

The rubbers can be a little stubbon sometimes and you might find if it is the first time they have come off you might need to remove the rear wheel to get access to the further most one.. depends how high you can safely get the car.
I have done it with two wheels parked on the kerb and laid in the gutter (I am used to being there) but if you can get the car up a bit more you can get more leveage on the rubbers and the bolts.

There is one reuseable (unless perished) gasket between the centre and backbox.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
Yep as you say.

spray WD40 on the bolts, think they are about 13mm.. a ratchet spanner and a normal ring spanner are best bet.

The rubbers can be a little stubbon sometimes and you might find if it is the first time they have come off you might need to remove the rear wheel to get access to the further most one.. depends how high you can safely get the car.
I have done it with two wheels parked on the kerb and laid in the gutter (I am used to being there) but if you can get the car up a bit more you can get more leveage on the rubbers and the bolts.

There is one reuseable (unless perished) gasket between the centre and backbox.
Great info!

Hmmmm.. couple more questions..

Jacking points... best option with a 2 ton trolley jack? Also could use a couple of axle stands if it will make it safer, just location info needed I suppose.

How do the rubber mounts come off? Do they slide to the side once the two 13mm bolts are removed?

Sorry If I was brave enough to get under the car last night I would not have had to ask these!! Sodding cold tarmac tomorrow

Going to get one of those halfords comfy sponge-like mats to do the job...!
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 09:47 AM
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Jakcking points can be had my the thread I posted them in recently, do a search for Jacking points.

Definately use axle stand, dont even get under the car with out them!!

The rubber mounts do slide off.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SCOOBYD00
Great info!

Hmmmm.. couple more questions..

Jacking points... best option with a 2 ton trolley jack? Also could use a couple of axle stands if it will make it safer, just location info needed I suppose.

How do the rubber mounts come off? Do they slide to the side once the two 13mm bolts are removed?

Sorry If I was brave enough to get under the car last night I would not have had to ask these!! Sodding cold tarmac tomorrow

Going to get one of those halfords comfy sponge-like mats to do the job...!
Use the rear diff with a trolley jack and definitely use axle stands, don't go under the car with just a trolley jack in place because you may need to exert some force on the rubber mounts and wobble the car about!

The rubber mounts slide off but mine were hard to do - a long piece of wood came in handy as some leverage was needed to pop them off. Don't leave them attached to the car, take them off and put them on the exhaust when it's off the car, I found this easier.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 09:49 AM
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trolley jack under the rear diff is my fav.. I stick a small bit of wood between to make sure it doesn't damage it.

Axle stands are a must if you are crawling under the car.

Halfrauds were giving away axle stands with trolley jacks if you don't have either etc..

The rubbers slide side to side.. they are rubber with a hole in either end basically and slide onto a pole on the underside of the car and a pole on the exhaust.. the poles have a slight lump on the end to stop them popping off.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 09:50 AM
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beaten to it
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 10:19 AM
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Thanks guys for all the response on this, feel I can tackle with my eyes shut... and yes I will ensure the axle stands are fitted before I crawl under the car. Actually tempted to do tonight... how long do you guys think it will take?

Thanks again, searching for the jacking position now
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 10:25 AM
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Ok, I feel confident I can do this... got me to thinking about other small tasks I may be able to tackle.

With the VW cars I obtained a copy of the Etka parts CD from ebay, this contained exploded diagrams of the car and was VERY usefull.

Is there a scooby version that will cover Jap imports or at least a UK classic version? Anyone have a good FTP link...

Thanks again

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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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WD40 the rubber mounts too, then you'll be able to pull them off 1 handed. Surprised no one else does this!! Maybe comes from years of working in bike shops, fitting and removing handlebar grips to bikes, although hairspray is the best thing for that - lubes them for about 30 seconds and then sticks them in place! Was always fun sending a skinheaded bike mechanic to the chemist for 6 cans of strong hold hairspray !
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 04:22 PM
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Did this recently, when it was warmer and the rubber mounts actually felt bendy. Good luck in the current cold snap.

I used WD40 and grease on the rubber mounts to get them off and when I put them back on.

Hope the centre section joint is uncorroded. I had grief with mine. Had to hammer a smaller socket into place after removing all the rust 'n' crap..

J.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 07:46 PM
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Regarding the rubber mounts, I used some washing up liquid to help them slide of a bit easier. Also helps when you put the new box on!
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