Latest feedback on oil type/grade (Big End No 3 sequel)
Following on from the Big End No 3 thread
Just had my car serviced and specified and supplied Motul 300V 15w:50 oil as recommended by Motul. Collected the car this evening and drove it home for 22 miles. At the end of this drive idle oil pressure had increased by 1.3 bar over prior to service pressure. Under a variety of driving conditions during the trip home oil pressure was always at least 0.5 bar and up to 1.3 bar greater dependant on revs. Oil temperature seems to be similar to previous but a longer sustained motorway drive at the weekend will confirm this.
What was I using before ? Just to say that it was 5w:40 grade as recommended by Subaru.
For my money point well proven ... as I had a mate with me I was showing off the car a bit so the drive was not a slow one.
An unashamed plug ... many thanks to David Hendry's boys for their excellent service as always, received the car back gleaming and valeted (it went in plastered in dead flies).
Just had my car serviced and specified and supplied Motul 300V 15w:50 oil as recommended by Motul. Collected the car this evening and drove it home for 22 miles. At the end of this drive idle oil pressure had increased by 1.3 bar over prior to service pressure. Under a variety of driving conditions during the trip home oil pressure was always at least 0.5 bar and up to 1.3 bar greater dependant on revs. Oil temperature seems to be similar to previous but a longer sustained motorway drive at the weekend will confirm this.
What was I using before ? Just to say that it was 5w:40 grade as recommended by Subaru.
For my money point well proven ... as I had a mate with me I was showing off the car a bit so the drive was not a slow one.
An unashamed plug ... many thanks to David Hendry's boys for their excellent service as always, received the car back gleaming and valeted (it went in plastered in dead flies).
Being a bit thick and not having read all the previous post (got too technical), that increase in oil pressure is good? As too much oil pressure is bad. How do you decide which is good and which is bad?
Could you feel any differance in the running of the car?
Cheers,
P.
[This message has been edited by Sith (edited 03 August 2001).]
Could you feel any differance in the running of the car?
Cheers,
P.
[This message has been edited by Sith (edited 03 August 2001).]
The answer is yes, I do change my own oil in between intervals ... but since I get pretty busy and its nice to get stamps in the book I have always used DHC for servicing. They do a good job at reasonable rates, far cheaper than if I costed out my time.
Oil pressure good or bad ? I am talking about a difference in pressure brought about purely by using a different oil, you have to wade thro' Big end no 3 to appreciate the implications of that.
Oil pressure has never made a car to faster or slower unless there wasn't enough ... then it just doesn't go but too much pressure can cause seals to weep etc, it really depends why there is too much, since the pressure relief valve is set at around 6 bar or so an extra 1.3 at idle is not going to touch the seals and an extra 0.5 bar or so at max is well within reasonable expectation of tolerance.
There is a case for saying that too high pressure is caused by the oil viscocity reducing flow .... but I'm not about to styart going there.
Suffice to say that Subaru stipulate in the workshop manual that 15w:50 grade should be used for "arduous use".
Oil pressure good or bad ? I am talking about a difference in pressure brought about purely by using a different oil, you have to wade thro' Big end no 3 to appreciate the implications of that.
Oil pressure has never made a car to faster or slower unless there wasn't enough ... then it just doesn't go but too much pressure can cause seals to weep etc, it really depends why there is too much, since the pressure relief valve is set at around 6 bar or so an extra 1.3 at idle is not going to touch the seals and an extra 0.5 bar or so at max is well within reasonable expectation of tolerance.
There is a case for saying that too high pressure is caused by the oil viscocity reducing flow .... but I'm not about to styart going there.
Suffice to say that Subaru stipulate in the workshop manual that 15w:50 grade should be used for "arduous use".
All I am saying is what I posted, information which may help others decide which oil to use, my own experience is that The Motul appears to provide more oil pressure than the other grade I was using. I am sure other equiv grades would do the same.
Fast motorway today still produced idle pressure 0.75 above what I had before (2.75 bar in fact) with max pressure at cruise up to 0.5 bar higher.
I am not about to state this is better than that but ... read the Big end no 3 thread, there are plenty of comments and observations in that, including my own, that should help.
Fast motorway today still produced idle pressure 0.75 above what I had before (2.75 bar in fact) with max pressure at cruise up to 0.5 bar higher.
I am not about to state this is better than that but ... read the Big end no 3 thread, there are plenty of comments and observations in that, including my own, that should help.
Bob
Stamps... in the book? - which book is this? Is this a 'special book'? - as I have not known anyone 'get a book' with an import
So your now going for the 15w50w - bit of a change of tack.... (the oil I'm supposed to prove I've used so as not to invalidate my Turbo warranty)
Stamps... in the book? - which book is this? Is this a 'special book'? - as I have not known anyone 'get a book' with an import
So your now going for the 15w50w - bit of a change of tack.... (the oil I'm supposed to prove I've used so as not to invalidate my Turbo warranty)
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I met a mate from university at a wedding at the weekend who is now an engine designer for ilmor. He reckons that the best improvement you can make to any engine is to use mobil 1 motorsport. He was talking about various motorsport teams being offered money to use other brands of oil but thought this was a false economy as he believes them to be generally far inferior. He seemed to think that the stuff they use is exactly the same as the consumer product too.
Re - service books for imports - most of the big new-import dealers get service books printed up.
[This message has been edited by Eric Chadwick (edited 08 August 2001).]
Re - service books for imports - most of the big new-import dealers get service books printed up.
[This message has been edited by Eric Chadwick (edited 08 August 2001).]
Since I have used the Shell for many thousands of normal miles then I don't consider there to be anything wrong with it, Subaru only recommend the heavier grades for "heavy use". I always put in a heavier oil for track use in the past.
Mobil 1 Motorsport is supposed to be a good quality oil although John F has noted an obvious difference in comparison which should be considered, again I can see nothing wrong with it under most road conditions and have also used this myself on occasion.
Steve, didn't you know about the book ? worth an extra 20 bhp at least !! Seriously though a good importer should provide a service book. I like to see the dealer history when I buy a car ... why shouldn't anyone else feel like that when/if my car is for sale.
Oil type/make is a very subjective subject as you know and you also know how I always try things before making statements about them.
So far the Motul is performing consistently but a few more thousand miles will prove the point I think. the 15:50 is the grade that Motul specified to be used when I asked them.
As an observation, the thicker oils will possibly affect turbo spool up on cars using the sleeve bearing TD04/TD05 MHI units (ie all UK cars) until it really warms up so be prepared for some difference during warm up. The VF series turbo's on imports should not be affected being ball race.
Mobil 1 Motorsport is supposed to be a good quality oil although John F has noted an obvious difference in comparison which should be considered, again I can see nothing wrong with it under most road conditions and have also used this myself on occasion.
Steve, didn't you know about the book ? worth an extra 20 bhp at least !! Seriously though a good importer should provide a service book. I like to see the dealer history when I buy a car ... why shouldn't anyone else feel like that when/if my car is for sale.
Oil type/make is a very subjective subject as you know and you also know how I always try things before making statements about them.
So far the Motul is performing consistently but a few more thousand miles will prove the point I think. the 15:50 is the grade that Motul specified to be used when I asked them.
As an observation, the thicker oils will possibly affect turbo spool up on cars using the sleeve bearing TD04/TD05 MHI units (ie all UK cars) until it really warms up so be prepared for some difference during warm up. The VF series turbo's on imports should not be affected being ball race.
I've also just had the dealer do an intermediate oil change.
I confess to leaving it far too long after my recent Nurburgring trip (3-4'000kms
). But didn't want the dealer to see the car until it had new tyres...the old ones were a *little* SCRUBBED
I'd been taking it easy and normally not going above 5k rpm.
Funny thing is - now it's got fresh oil the first knocklink led (power one) doesn't start flashing until 6k rpm. Pre oil change it was 5k (and suspect was why I was subconciously changing before it).
The first led is supposedly 'normal' background noise, and I guess that different knock sensors have different tolerances - so others may not see the exact same behaviour. If nothing else, it highlights the advice that you should change the oil after a track day.
Oh, I used Mobil 1 5W/50 - couldn't find any Castrol or Motul in the French supermarket I bought from (at a 3rd of the Swiss retail proce
).
Richard
I confess to leaving it far too long after my recent Nurburgring trip (3-4'000kms
). But didn't want the dealer to see the car until it had new tyres...the old ones were a *little* SCRUBBED
I'd been taking it easy and normally not going above 5k rpm.
Funny thing is - now it's got fresh oil the first knocklink led (power one) doesn't start flashing until 6k rpm. Pre oil change it was 5k (and suspect was why I was subconciously changing before it).
The first led is supposedly 'normal' background noise, and I guess that different knock sensors have different tolerances - so others may not see the exact same behaviour. If nothing else, it highlights the advice that you should change the oil after a track day.
Oh, I used Mobil 1 5W/50 - couldn't find any Castrol or Motul in the French supermarket I bought from (at a 3rd of the Swiss retail proce
).Richard
THAT IS SO TRUE BOB MY CARS TURBO DOES NOT REALLY KICK IN PROPERLY UNTIL I DRIVE IT HARD FOR 5MINS. <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Bob Rawle:
<B>Since I have used the Shell for many thousands of normal miles then I don't consider there to be anything wrong with it, Subaru only recommend the heavier grades for "heavy use". I always put in a heavier oil for track use in the past.
Mobil 1 Motorsport is supposed to be a good quality oil although John F has noted an obvious difference in comparison which should be considered, again I can see nothing wrong with it under most road conditions and have also used this myself on occasion.
Steve, didn't you know about the book ? worth an extra 20 bhp at least !! Seriously though a good importer should provide a service book. I like to see the dealer history when I buy a car ... why shouldn't anyone else feel like that when/if my car is for sale.
Oil type/make is a very subjective subject as you know and you also know how I always try things before making statements about them.
So far the Motul is performing consistently but a few more thousand miles will prove the point I think. the 15:50 is the grade that Motul specified to be used when I asked them.
As an observation, the thicker oils will possibly affect turbo spool up on cars using the sleeve bearing TD04/TD05 MHI units (ie all UK cars) until it really warms up so be prepared for some difference during warm up. The VF series turbo's on imports should not be affected being ball race. [/quote]
<B>Since I have used the Shell for many thousands of normal miles then I don't consider there to be anything wrong with it, Subaru only recommend the heavier grades for "heavy use". I always put in a heavier oil for track use in the past.
Mobil 1 Motorsport is supposed to be a good quality oil although John F has noted an obvious difference in comparison which should be considered, again I can see nothing wrong with it under most road conditions and have also used this myself on occasion.
Steve, didn't you know about the book ? worth an extra 20 bhp at least !! Seriously though a good importer should provide a service book. I like to see the dealer history when I buy a car ... why shouldn't anyone else feel like that when/if my car is for sale.
Oil type/make is a very subjective subject as you know and you also know how I always try things before making statements about them.
So far the Motul is performing consistently but a few more thousand miles will prove the point I think. the 15:50 is the grade that Motul specified to be used when I asked them.
As an observation, the thicker oils will possibly affect turbo spool up on cars using the sleeve bearing TD04/TD05 MHI units (ie all UK cars) until it really warms up so be prepared for some difference during warm up. The VF series turbo's on imports should not be affected being ball race. [/quote]
Stop shouting FFS!!!! (ie turn the caps lock off), it's bloody anoying! If you dont i will use my power as a moderator and kick your post's butt.
LOL
I am very happy with the Motul 15:50 300V competition. Definately increased the oil presure significantly over mobil1 motorsport (now known as wee wee to me
) Castrol RS10-60 is almost as good at maintaining presure. I am happy to use both. Never again wee wee though!
Now i have my water temp under control on the westie and can run flat out on track for 20 minutes. (f1 cored rad worked brilliantly) I have to sort the oil cooling out. I am getting 115 degrees which is too high for my liking so i need to junk the water/oil cooler and fit a 19row air/oil cooler. Improve one area and you go onto the next week link!
[This message has been edited by johnfelstead (edited 08 September 2001).]
LOLI am very happy with the Motul 15:50 300V competition. Definately increased the oil presure significantly over mobil1 motorsport (now known as wee wee to me
) Castrol RS10-60 is almost as good at maintaining presure. I am happy to use both. Never again wee wee though!Now i have my water temp under control on the westie and can run flat out on track for 20 minutes. (f1 cored rad worked brilliantly) I have to sort the oil cooling out. I am getting 115 degrees which is too high for my liking so i need to junk the water/oil cooler and fit a 19row air/oil cooler. Improve one area and you go onto the next week link!

[This message has been edited by johnfelstead (edited 08 September 2001).]
Hello everybody,
I use Castrol RS 10W/60 and it is very expensive. I would also use the Motul 300V 15W/50. Which one is more expensive, the Castrol or the Motul?
WREXY.
I use Castrol RS 10W/60 and it is very expensive. I would also use the Motul 300V 15W/50. Which one is more expensive, the Castrol or the Motul?
WREXY.
Cheers Jeremy,
Well VAT here is 18% so 17.5% is better, however the price of the Castrol in the UK is similar to what it costs here, so I'm better off buying the Castrol from here as I've been doing, coz I'll save on shipping costs. I'll have to find out what Motul is worth here however. If Demon Tweeks is anything to go by, the Motul could be cheaper than the Castrol here as well.
Money really is not an issue as I want the best protection and I will pay. The fact that Motul gives slightly better oil pressure than the Castrol, made me think that it would be more expensive than the Castrol and that was the main reason I asked, which was cheaper. Seems the Castrol is more expensive though.
WREXY.
Well VAT here is 18% so 17.5% is better, however the price of the Castrol in the UK is similar to what it costs here, so I'm better off buying the Castrol from here as I've been doing, coz I'll save on shipping costs. I'll have to find out what Motul is worth here however. If Demon Tweeks is anything to go by, the Motul could be cheaper than the Castrol here as well.
Money really is not an issue as I want the best protection and I will pay. The fact that Motul gives slightly better oil pressure than the Castrol, made me think that it would be more expensive than the Castrol and that was the main reason I asked, which was cheaper. Seems the Castrol is more expensive though.
WREXY.
Unless you are a VAT registered business in Greece, you WILL pay UK VAT when buying from where you are. You cannot escape the fact that Greece is in the EEC!!
Thought I would mention it as 17.5% does make a difference to the final cost, not to mention hefty shipping for something fairly heavy.
regards
Jeremy
Thought I would mention it as 17.5% does make a difference to the final cost, not to mention hefty shipping for something fairly heavy.
regards
Jeremy
Hi WREXY
It costs me about 3.800 drachmas per liter the Castrol and 4.600 drachmas the Motul here in Thessaloniki.
I have been suggested from the main Subaru service to use Motul 15-50 , but as you I am not sure witch is better for our extreme weather!
Probably Castrol for the summer and Motul for the other seasons
!
Jim
PS:Motul says that Castrol 10-60 and Mobil 15-50 are both good oils designed for modern cars, while V300 is designed for performance only and must replace it every 2500-3000 milles. The V300 also does no contains modifiers witch is good for hard use in turbo cars, I don't know about Castrol.
Motul has V300 in 15-60 viscosity witch is not available here.
[This message has been edited by JIM THEO (edited 12 August 2001).]
[This message has been edited by JIM THEO (edited 12 August 2001).]
It costs me about 3.800 drachmas per liter the Castrol and 4.600 drachmas the Motul here in Thessaloniki.
I have been suggested from the main Subaru service to use Motul 15-50 , but as you I am not sure witch is better for our extreme weather!
Probably Castrol for the summer and Motul for the other seasons
!Jim
PS:Motul says that Castrol 10-60 and Mobil 15-50 are both good oils designed for modern cars, while V300 is designed for performance only and must replace it every 2500-3000 milles. The V300 also does no contains modifiers witch is good for hard use in turbo cars, I don't know about Castrol.
Motul has V300 in 15-60 viscosity witch is not available here.
[This message has been edited by JIM THEO (edited 12 August 2001).]
[This message has been edited by JIM THEO (edited 12 August 2001).]
Thanks Jim.
So Castrol is cheaper here then. I too am a bit confused on whether I should change to Motul. But then again we know the Castrol is good so I think I'll stick by it. It is the only oil I've used so far and like the idea of keeping the same brand and viscosity in the sump. I'll try and get an oil analysis done too, at some stage
Cheers,
WREXY.
So Castrol is cheaper here then. I too am a bit confused on whether I should change to Motul. But then again we know the Castrol is good so I think I'll stick by it. It is the only oil I've used so far and like the idea of keeping the same brand and viscosity in the sump. I'll try and get an oil analysis done too, at some stage
Cheers,
WREXY.
Jim,
Where are you buying the oil from at that price? It is very cheap. It works out to 15,200 GRD for 4 litres. I paid 20,000 GRD for 4 litres. I had half a litre left over, so only needed 4 litres.
WREXY.
Where are you buying the oil from at that price? It is very cheap. It works out to 15,200 GRD for 4 litres. I paid 20,000 GRD for 4 litres. I had half a litre left over, so only needed 4 litres.
WREXY.
just to clear things up on the Motul Range.
Motul's oils are all called 300V. They are all 100% fully synthetic.
You can specify it in the following ways.
power racing 5W30
chrono 10W40
competition 15W50
Le Mans 15W60
Power 5W40
I am not sure whether you are saying the 15W50 is OK or not in a turbo car from what you posted?
The facts are that the Competition 15W50 is suitable for turbo apps. It is aproved by Jaguar and Land Rover in there road car engines.
The 15W50 is what a large number of leading rally teams use in their WRC and GroupA engines. The Le Mans spec is designed for desert raids and endurance race cars.
[This message has been edited by johnfelstead (edited 12 August 2001).]
Motul's oils are all called 300V. They are all 100% fully synthetic.
You can specify it in the following ways.
power racing 5W30
chrono 10W40
competition 15W50
Le Mans 15W60
Power 5W40
I am not sure whether you are saying the 15W50 is OK or not in a turbo car from what you posted?
The facts are that the Competition 15W50 is suitable for turbo apps. It is aproved by Jaguar and Land Rover in there road car engines.
The 15W50 is what a large number of leading rally teams use in their WRC and GroupA engines. The Le Mans spec is designed for desert raids and endurance race cars.
[This message has been edited by johnfelstead (edited 12 August 2001).]
Cheers Johnfelstead.
Good piece of information that. If anything maybe the Motul 15/50 is better for the Greek summer as when the oil is hot it is a little thicker being 15W than the Castrol 10W, which I would think means more oil pressure. Greek summer temperatures are over 37 deg celsius everyday. Am I right in my thinking?
WREXY.
Good piece of information that. If anything maybe the Motul 15/50 is better for the Greek summer as when the oil is hot it is a little thicker being 15W than the Castrol 10W, which I would think means more oil pressure. Greek summer temperatures are over 37 deg celsius everyday. Am I right in my thinking?
WREXY.





