Hi ive just fitted my knock link, sensitivity right up to max, getting knock at 7500 rpm,few questions, when i fitted the sensor should i have put the sensor on top of the bracket for the steel pipe or straight on to the block?? should the sensitivity be right up to max?? would appreciate any comments on this one??

 

I cant remember how mine was but your sensitivity is ok at max, what car/model year is it and what fuel/mods you have?

Tony

 

You bolt the sensor directly on to the block not on the bracket.You calibrate the KL by driving at 75% power with the KL on max sensitivity and then turn the sensitivity down until you have only the 2 green leds lit.Mine showed no activity on max sensitivty so i've left it on max.If you are getting more than the green leds lit at 75% power you need to turn the sensitivity down.

 

my car's a 98 sti sype r, panel filter,mid section,back box,dump valve,other than that pretty much standard, runnin optimax fuel, might be something to do with the sensor on the bracket though!?had her out just now, holding it in 4th gear 6500 rpm 3 lights on, flickering 4th light, not good!??help?

 

It probably is due to the bracket but you need to calibrate the KL like it says in the instructions.Refit the sensor directly on to the block before you do anything.

 

cheers zippy will go and do that now and see wot happens, when they say 75% powere is that 75% of 9000 rpm or 7500 rpm red line?so what did you do with your bracket, just leave it off?
Cheers again

 

There was no bracket mate,are you sure you've got the right hole?

I checked mine at 6000 rpm which is more than 75% of the redline.Like i say mine is on max sensitivity and i rarely get the 2nd green led lit but that might change now i've de catted

[Edited by ZippyEFC - 1/11/2004 8:28:00 PM]

 

Reading another thread on this it seems people just leave the bracket off.

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...hreadID=198047

 

mm think ive got the right hole, bracket holds on a small steel water pipe, put the sensor straight on now, second green light comes on just after 5000 rpm!? just threw in some millers o/b so will see wot that does, bit concerned, thing i dont get is that everyone says that det blows up an engine yet have had the car 2 months ang goin by the knock link its been detting at 7000rpm so why aint it blew up yet??not that im over 7000 a lot that is, might have to get it checked out if it continues..
Cheers
Graeme

 

Your getting more lights because you haven't calibrated the KL yet.Drive around at 6000 rpm and turn the sensitivity down until you only have 2 leds lit.That way if you get the 2nd amber led coming on in the future you know to back off.Your not getting det now you just need to adjust the sensitivity,so dont worry about it.

 

ok mate will do, is it the same if i sit and rev it at 6000 rpm or does it need to be under load ie driving,if yes, does it matter which gear for callibration or not? hope you right mate, dont want my baby spilling her guts all over the road!!!

 

I'd leave it at max sensitivity..

You need to monitor for spikes.. it is probably engine noise at 7500rpm.. how many lights?

If red then it is knock for sure..

I would NOT turn the sensitivity down..

JGM

 

It says in the instructions to set it while your driving.JGM maybe it says to do this because the sensors get different readings from sensor to sensor??? Mines set on max sensitivity because there was no activity on mine.

 

I agree with JGM. Leave the sensor on MAX. This is what I have always been advised to do.

Remember the knocklink is universal so these are wide instructions for all makes of car and not just Subaru.

Better safe than sorry if you ask me. Mines a Type R as well.

Cheers

J4CK50N

 

What difference does the bracket make? I just removed the existing bolt and replaced with a longer one with the sensor on top of the bracket?

Isnt this normal?? who has acutally removed the bracket??

[Edited by Jake - 1/12/2004 11:47:02 AM]

 

The bracket can vibrate and would cause a false reading.

 

You mean you don't use booster all the time?

Lol, you almost sound like you're disappointed that it hasn't eaten itself!!???

What you've heard is correct, detonation can/does/will kill engines, but the damage tends to be cumulative, gradually stressing the parts until something gives, or causing cylinder overheating that results in a meltdown.

What do you need to get "checked out"? You seem to be saying further up that you normally run on Optimax alone. If the car hasn't been remapped, it's not surprising to find you getting det. Start using the correct amount of booster every time you fill up and see what the KnockLink does.

[Edited by greasemonkey - 1/12/2004 12:16:36 PM]

 

Thanks for the advice lads, lol i aint complaining at all that it aint blew up yet!! and no i havent used booster every time because ive heard so much different stories and believe that every car is different, put in some millers o/b last nite and seems a lot better today,less lights so now i know she likes the booster juice, before the booster the red light flickered at 7000 rpm plus and to be honest i cant remember hitting that before or if i have then very seldom, lights are now 1st green at 5000, second green 6000,slight flicker of orange 6500!??

 

That sounds more normal.. used to get 1 or 2 greens above 4500rpm on my UK car.. since fitting the Link I get very little activity unless I screw the mapping up

JGM

 

Cheers JGM, so how much would it cost me to get my car mapped to run on 98 ron? dont really know much about mapping so any info on the subject would be appreciated??
Thanks again

 

Depends on the year but I think your ecu is not reprogrammable, but that could be wrong depends on year.

A custom ecu and map like the Link.. check http://www.brdevelopments.com/ for more link info and prices.

There is the GEMS which I know little about but similar price to the Link I believe. Also the Motec which I think is better but more expensive.

I picked up a secondhand Link and mapped it myself but I am getting it mapped later this month as my emissions failed the mot (doh).

JGM

 

Ist a early 98 sti V4, will check out the prices and stuff for remapping,heard that some version 4's suffer piston slap, do you think this would cause the knock link to pick up noises and not det?? dont suppose you know where i can get bulk supply of o/b do you mate