It looks like its clutch time! - has anyone any prices/good experience of a standard clutch replacement for a MY96?

Not brave enough to do it myself - want somewhere decent that does not rip me off

Somewhere in the West/West of London area?

Thanks

Jantec

 

living in Bagshot - I usually use SAS in Aldershot to fit bits and pieces.

 

Thanks Rich

I will give them a call.

Jantec.

 

If you are mechanicly minded dont be scared to have a go, Im a skilled mechanic and found the clutch on my WRX easier than an Escort!!!


Daz

 

Daz

According to what I can find ... it is box out after angling the engine down at the back ... but not sure how easy it is to get the exhaust off, drive shafts out etc

Any tips?

Jantec.

 

Jantec,

Exhaust isnt too bad as long as the bolts come undone,intercooler needs to come off,starter,propshaft,crack off both bottom ball joints and the driveshafts are located in the gearbox with roll pins.

The only fiddly bit is where the clutch fork disconnects-you remove a blanking bung then you need to withdraw the shaft that the fork pivets on.

I did all the work myself and had the clutch reconditioned at EBC in northampton, it cost 120 quid and is perfect.

A bit better than the 4-500 pound job at a dealers!

Hope this helps

Daz

 

Dragon autosport managed to get me an AP 4 paddle with uprated cover for £330. I then fitted it in less than 6 hours on my driveway.

 

Darren/Nigel

You've almost convinced me. Given your experience can you answer these queries?

- Do you remove drive shafts completely or just undo the lower joint and swing them out of the way?

- Did you replace all clutch parts - friction disc, pressure plate and release bearing?

- Did you have to change the pilot bearing - the one in the flywheel that the gearbox shaft runs in - the manual i've got says this may need changing and needs a slide hammer/puller to get out?

Thanks

Jantec

 

To remove the shafts undo the bottom ball joints and the shafts can be easily removed( dont forget to remove the pins.

I renewed the release bearing aswell as for 70 quid if wasn't worth the risk.

The hardest part I found was removing the down pipe as the bolts were very tight. This was the longest part of the job.

 

Any problems with the flywheel when you did the clutch? Local dealer is on the party line of change the flywheel at the same time - from the threads it looks like this is a Subaru recommendation. Other threads seem to reckon a skim is all that is needed. No real judder at the moment just a bit of slip so not sure if anything is required at all? Car is an My96.

All knowledge appreciated

Jantec

 

The flywheel must be skimmed to be certain of the job being judder free.