When should I fit the PPP to my 03 WRX? Dealer says at 1k service so things 'bed down' first but I wonder if it would be better done brand new so that I have more power during running in and therefore won't rev the engine as much. Any thoughts?

 

From what I've heard its better to get it done when it's run-in. Plus you will get the chance to feel the difference. I had mine done at 24k !

 

Doesn't matter as long as after 1k. Would be a good idea to see how the car feels and reacts without PPP so when you do get it done you will feel the benefits.

IMHO dont get the dealer PPP do everything gradually yourself and save money.

1. Airfilter
2. Back Box
3. Mid Section
4. Down Pipe
5. Up pipe (if poss)
6. Intercooler Hoses
7. Ecutek Map 3
8. WOO HOO!

 

Drove standard WRX for test drive not quick enough had PPP fitted before delivery so had it like that from new no problems. Main reason for this is I am socially responsable and was thinking of my neighbours!!

John

 

popular Q.
I went for the trad 1K svc.

Sure - waiting a bit to appreciate it more is the sensible route - but that's like witholding Christmas presents from a small child.

If you are convinced, why wait?

Other benefit is wife never noticed the slightly different exhaust - but might have done if I had waited longer to fit PPP.

phew.

 

Yesterday!

I did it from new on my WRX 03 - just took it easy, it's down to your right foot at the end of the day and I guess the engine is producing quite abit more power in the mid range so you could over stress it a bit more easily, it's not just about over revving it but hey, plenty of techy guys on this site said it's Ok if you're careful (including the dealers Service Director who I've known for years). I'll eat my words if she blows up on me - we will see!

 

Thanks guys. I would prefer to fit it when the car is brand new as the extra power will mean I use less revs when running it in thus protecting my engine more. That's my logic anyway!

Did'nt Autocar get their STi PPP'd from new?

 

I had mine from NEW

 

You are suppose to stay below 4000rpm anyway and you aint changing the gearing so 4000rpm in a PPP car is the same as 4000rpm in a non PPP car.

 

AR don't forget it's not just about over revving, don't labour the car in a high gear or put the engine under full load/full throttle within the permissable running in revs, don't also run it in on long runs at constant engine speeds.
My advice is the engine needs to be worked a bit and needs to heat up to normal operating temp and cool down as much as reasonably posible during the first few hundred miles and gradually increase the load as you reach the 1k mark. Also I don't think an engine is necessarily fully bedded in at 1k. Some of my ex racing buddies used to run their bikes in hard and fast though - said the engines were faster that way - I'm sure the trade off was longevity though!

Macka

 

I appreciate that 4000 revs will be the same speed in both cars as the gear ratios don't change but the PPP car will either get there faster or you can use less throttle under acceleration. With the latter there is surely less strain on the engine?

 

To be honest I found it more difficult running the RA in than my old uk turbo. RA low ratio box and good torque and bhp. Had to seriously shortshift and use very little throttle in the low gears.

Its upto you but I would have mine fitted a 1K service.

[Edited by chrisp - 10/28/2003 9:55:25 PM]

 

AR if the car is pulling hard at say 3000 revs because you've got your foot flat to the floor, it'll be pulling harder under the same circumstances with PPP because your getting more air and fuel in, more boost and more exhaust gasses out and therefore putting more load on the engine - just take it easy if you get PPP'd from day one - it is theoretically easier to nacker your engine with PPP when running in but it's down to you, the first few hundred miles are the most important. Load and revs are linked but not completely if you get my drift. Any other performance car with a relatively small engine and big turbo/high output has the same issues re running in, also never put a cold engine under load but don't warm it up by letting it idle either cos this will also nacker it!!

Just to finnish the point before my fingers sieze up think of this if you are going up a steep hill in third gear at say 3500 revs and you put you foot down further on the accelerator and the car cannot accelerate the engine is under 100% full load and power - not good if you are running in!

 

I am always careful never to over rev an engine when cold, whether run in or not, and take the running in process very seriously. However, my thoughts were just that as I could get better acceleration with the PPP fitted then I could actually use less throttle to accelerate up to speed than I would without the PPP fitted. Getting confused now...but need to take a decision.

 

er, why is this bad for a car??

I often have short trips to do so let her idle for several minutes in the garage before going out just so the car has a chance of being fully up to temp before I get to my destination.

Nothing more depressing than a week full of such short trips in a scoob that you reach your destination whilst still warming her up.

I didn't know this was bad! Please explain.

 

AR - forget all the complex theory.
Running in is dull - but bearable with lovely new car.
I can't believe it will be any easier with PPP, and inclined to feel there would be more temptation with that exhaust note.

More imortantly, think of the extra joy when collect from 1K service with that new exhaust note and extra oomph. Almost like getting a new car again.

 

Never, get an Ecutek map and save a fortune,and gain much more driving feel.
I drove a demonstrator 03 with PPP and it was pants i then drove an 02 with cats still in place and an Ecutek remap and it was a world of difference.
The 02 with cats pulled 265 BHP on the rolling Rd and it cost him £700 and that includes a new back box and the re-map.

Zippy