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cyprus - advice on induction/fmic post-engine melt down

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Old Jun 24, 2003 | 08:29 AM
  #1  
rmcoasby's Avatar
rmcoasby
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Unhappy

Some may remember my STiV engine let go a couple of weeks back. Sodding great hole in piston number 3 and a knackered block. New P1 engine on the ship from blighty now and I am distilling all the advice I have had to avoid the next one going bang. The objective is safety in the very hot local temperatures but if I get a bit more power in the process then so be it.
Uprated fuel pump, knock link and boost gauge on the way, along with a years supply of octane booster. A GEMS ECU and a re-map courtesy of steve simpson will take place here in August. A FMIC was the other overwhelming recommendation but I am concerned about starting a cascade of upgrades. Here's the questions:

- do I need an induction kit and if so, why? Is it a space issue?
- i was recommended to have a forge re-circ dump valve. why do i need this?
- can i run a FMIC with my existing turbo? i would rather not upgrade the turbo if possible but if i'm already shelling out for a FMCI and GEMS/re-map...

once this lot is done i want to close the loop. i cannot get re-maps here without a lot of hassle, so this needs to be it.

thanks for any help.
richard
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Old Jun 24, 2003 | 08:31 AM
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rmcoasby
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oh yes...and can i make do with an uprated top mount plus water injection? it is very hot here now BTW
richard
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Old Jun 24, 2003 | 10:36 AM
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nom
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FMIC is your 'preventative measure' along with the remap - there's a possibility that lag could increase minutely, but the benefits would far outweigh any downside
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Old Jun 24, 2003 | 12:22 PM
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john banks
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From: 32 cylinders and many cats
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Are you reusing the original turbo that failed with the original engine? If so get it checked first.

If budget allows I would go for FMIC, cold air induction or heatshielded induction kit, turbo inlet pipe, water injection, headers, octane booster, TD05 or bigger and big bore decat exhaust. Then you would get superb airflow and volumetric efficiency and your engine will make power far more easily and safely.

If budget is very restricted, water injection, P1 ECU, knocklink, boost gauge and fuel pump, and sort out any boost spikes by adjusting the restrictor (target midrange boost 15.7 PSI, don't let it peak much at all in your hot climate on the standard ECU).

For the FMIC you need to use an induction kit to fit. If you run the GEMS you can I presume junk the MAF sensor, so any induction kit that would fit will work. Given your hot climate I would shield off the induction cone from the underbonnet heat or put it in the inner wing.

The Forge DV is to prevent leaks on the original one. Some have issues with this some don't.
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