Hi

Just recentlt fitted a forge motorsport dump valve to my 1994 wrx, at the same time I removed my HKS induction kit (because it was causing the engine to run too hot) and put standard air box back on with new JR filter. Since I did this my car has had a problem with idling, it tends to start off from cold ok but once warmed up it will drop of to about 200-400 rpm, sometimes when I pull to a stop it will idle between 700-1000 (what i used to have with hks) but give it a couple of seconds and it will drop down.

what could it be?

Coincidently i had my intercooler pipe blow off during a high boost gear change shortly after fitting my dump valve, could this have caused any damage? would this contribute to the idling problem.

apart from the above, my car is standard and has done 130,000 Km

any anvice whould be appreciated.

cheers Mark

[Edited by SPARKY WRX - 12/11/2002 1:31:11 PM]

 

I had a very similar thing car ran OK when cold but once warmed approaching junctions the idle dropped to almost stalling!! very annoying. Mine was caused by the Bailey dump I had fitted not closeing properly so causing engine to run lean at idle and run a bit lumpy in the mid range.

Could be worth checking. As soon as I changed it out car ran spot on.

Ade

 

Cheers, but how did you know it was running lean, did you use rolling road/diognostics or Air/fuel ration meter.

What did you change it to, back to standard?

 

You need the blue spring in the Forge DV, the red one is too strong. Should get a free one from Forge themselves if you phone them up.

 

cheers ill give them a ring.

 

I spoke to Graham at TSL told him symptoms he asked me if I had a Bailey dump I said yes he said that's your problem then.

Simple as that really. Cos the valve wasn't closing properly to much air getting in causeing poo idle

Hope this helps

Ade

 

Hi

noticed low boost last night while driving home, usually get 12 psi max in 5th gear but only got 11 max last night. been like this since i put my standard air box back on with forge dv.

anyway i decided to put my standard dump valve back on last night and left the battery disconnected all night. after a 25 min drive to work this morning the idling was still down at 300 rpm when i got to work. dont know what else it could be.

any suggestions on what it could be or will i need to put it on rolling road/diagnostics or will my local garage (who knows all about scoobs but doesnt have rollers of diagnostics) be able to help?

 

It could be the ISCV.... very common fault. You need to get some brake/carb cleaner into the thing. Get the outlet pipe off and give it a good spray while the engine is running.... you'll need someone to keep the throttle pressed slightly to stop the car from stalling (due to the pipe being off).

If you want to know where/what the ISCV is look here at the manual:

Chris P's site

Tony.

 

cheers, ill look into it

 

Hi Tony

That web page you mentioned is currenty down so can you tell me what ISCV stands for is it the idle air controll soleniod valve?

 

You have exactly the same symptoms as my MY99 had when the MAF sensor went......

It gradually got worse and worse until it was obvious what the problem was.

I thought it was my Forge dump valve at first, 'cos of the way it seemed to be very active (to watch - not to hear) during the lumpy idling. it became apparent that the dump valve was reacting to the bad idle, not causing it.

One tric is to disconnect your MAF during idle if it smooths out nd picks up, you've found your problem.

 

Cheers, heres a question i forgot to ask, wouldnt the engine check light come on if the sensor isnt operating properly.

cheers Mark

 

Sparky,

Never had a single indication from warning lights - ran for about 4 or 5 weeks with the problem (lucky I didn't knacker the engine!!) Had a couple of fuel cuts under heavy acceleration, but that was all. Apart from the crappy idle and the occasional fuel cut there were no visible problems, and no error codes held by the ECU either!!

Apparently, if it doesn't go completely, it's just sending inaccurate readings, not indicating a fault..........

[Edited by Fat Blerk - 12/12/2002 2:11:15 PM]

 

HI, FAT BLERK

I disconnected the MAF sensor last night during idle and the revs went down to almost stalling and then up to 1000 then back down again & did this repeatedly untill i reconnected the sensor. Is this normal? you mentioned it would level out.

I also gave the MAF a clean with carb spray but it didnt make a difference.

any sugestions

cheers mark

 

I would say in that case your MAF is ok......

Mine would smooth the idle right out when disconnected, and cause the problem when connected.

Sorry!

Worth a try though!

 

You tried the blue spring from forge yet? Sounds like the typical idle prob that this fixes........

 

iv not got the forge DV on at the moment, i have switched back to the standard one and still get the same problem. doesnt look like it was the dump valve but i will still use the new spring when it arives.

dont know what else to try. might have a go at cleaning the idle controll solenoid valve.

Also i noticed that i used a hell of a lot of petroll with the forge, about 13 mpg. im only getting about 16 at best as standard!!

 

I had this problem on my MY99 when it was standard. It was the lambda which caused it.

MB

 

cheers, how would i check my lambda sensor ??

 

Not sure, maybe a select monitor? Subaru checked the signal on mine and it had gone into "safe mode"

Ask John Banks on this BBS, he will know.

MB

 

good morning lads,

Cleaned my idle soleniod last night and the car seamed to get better, idling at 650 rpm, went for a drive and it never moved below 650. looks like i had found the problem.

But took it out a couple of hours later for 25 min drive and it was back to the same problem again. mayby i didnt clean it enough, didnt take the solenoid off. just squrted some carb cleaner into the pipe while i kept the engine idling at 2000 rpm, might give it another clean tonight and take it off to check the spindle is moving freely.

Thanks for the info guys

Mark

 

Which Forge BOV you have, recirc or VTA?
I ask cause I am going to buy a recirc one in order to correct air leakage from the factory valve at high boosts.
Thanks
JIM

 

I have a forge motorsport VTA Dump Valve

 

Sparky - when you cleaned the valve, did you put the ecu in 'mad ba$t4rd clicky' mode? Is that the same valve or am I thinking of another one

 

Dont know mate, i just pulled the pipe off the air box just after MAF, sqirted the carb cleaner in and put the pipe back on (while it was idling at 2000) & it was fine, there was no 'mad ba$t4rd clicky' mode. What do you mean 'mad ba$t4rd clicky' mode!!

Mark

Does anyone know if i should have reset my ECU after cleaning the idle soleniod.??

 

Hmmmmmm, maybe I'm thinking about the boost solenoid then. Basically you connect 2 green connectors together under the stering wheel and turn the car on. It goes into some weird mode and clicks one of the valves for cleaning.

Probs best if someone techy can explain it

 

Yep that will be the boost soleniod!!

had me worried their for a min!!! thought id cleaned the wrong valve!!!!!!

well back to the drawing board, gonna give it another clean tonight, take it appart and check the spindle is moving freely.

Mark

 

be ultra careful as they arnt meant to be mega loose and i f----d mine by trying to pull it out and it fell to bits...boing 364.00 pound please

 

still got problems with my idling fellas but im more concerned about my fueling. using optimax with millers booster.

only used to get 16 mpg with standard motor, but since i put the forge DV on im only getting 14 mpg which is s**t. 150 mile to a tank!!

i know i shouldnt be getting fuel consumption as low as that. is there anything i could be checking that could cause this, i.e. sensors etc. what sensors could contribute to poor fuel consumption if they are not functioning properly.

any ideas.

mery xmas

mark

 

lamda sensor!