cheers, well it looks like im going to have to replace something, I might as well start with the lamda sensor! it might kill too birds with one stone!!

Thanks

and a merry christmas to all.

Mark

 

Agree with Andy, and as I said before, my lambda went **** up and had similar problems. The ECU goes into safe mode, bungs loads of fuel in for safety sake and runs like a bag of crap. My fuel consumption was circa 220 miles.

Subaru used the select monitor on it, its difficult to spot but I think the voltage reading they looked at didn't move at all, where it should fluctuate slighlty. There is no "check engine light" for this problem.

Even after they fitted the new one, it took about a week to sort itself. An ECU reset would have probably cured it.

You have to be very careful when fitting the DV, make sure its bolted up tight and there isnt the hint of a leak. If its a 99> was the gasket ok to reuse? They normally are but make sure it is very clean. Also, bolt it up nice and even, and make sure the gasket hasnt pinched or anything. Make sure all the hoses are really secure and fitted properly, including the blanking plug.

Spring is another thing, Blue is the one you need. If there is any sort of leak your idle will **** up.

Hope this helps,

MB

 

Iv alway ran about 16mpg without the DV, but only recently had idling problems, but i took the DV off and still have the same problems. With the dump valve on i get 14 mpg on average with mainly slow driving.

Iv also lost a bit of boost. say 1 psi.

Ill try the lamda

any ideas where i can get a jap spec lamda from. Will blueprint do them?

 

Sounds maybe like a leak too if you're losing boost? Unless safe mode does this. Out of my depth with that sort of thing.

Try Graham Goode Racing, they do loads of bits.

MB

 

Almost definitely your lambda sensor.
The car heats up and the problem gets worse: Your lambda sensor gets hot and WHOOPS the readings go out of the window.

If you just put the standard induction on, your boost is bound to be down because the standard air intake is VERY restrictive!

I am also surprised that an induction kit can 'make your engine run too hot'. I may be ignorant (I am no expert!) but this sounds highly unlikely unless you are running different boost control (e.g. dawes / remap/ differnt ECU etc)

I would change your Lambda sensor and when it fixes the problem, put all your lovely mods back on

 

cheers, going to ring for a price today

 

Sparky - have read of this

http://www.mobiletuning.carnuts.co.uk/oxygen.htm

 

does anyone know what voltage readings i should be getting from my lambda on my 94 wrx, im going to have it checked by elictrical chap before i spend my cash on a new one.

 

I may be able to get them but it won't be for a few days cause i need to reformat me lappy to get my cd to work. I think Halfords sell a tester.

 

If you have a VTA dump then you are going to be confusing the S$%^ out of your ECU every time the valve operates, dumping fuel as a safety measure-which may explaing your fuel consumption. Unless of course you have a non soob ECU which can compensate for the altered volume of air.
Plumb backs are the only way(well sort of) but they don't sound "Fully Sic M8........."
Regards,
Mark

This won't solve your idling prob though, I'd be thinking AFM or something along those lines

[Edited by parso_rex - 1/3/2003 12:25:36 PM]

[Edited by parso_rex - 1/3/2003 12:28:21 PM]

 

The car uses the lambda sensor to monitor fuelling on idle and on cruise. If the lambda sensor has failed, then the idle will be very eratic.

You should see lambda voltages of between 0.00 and 0.91 if it is working correctly. On idle, it will fluctuate between 0.00 and 0.87v.

 

cheers and i do have bad idling, levels of at 900 when cold and drops to 200 when hot or even lower when it feels like it.

 

Sorry meant to say recirc and this was only regarding fuel consumption not your idling prob.
Apart from checking the Lamda sensor, you may want to also check the basic stuff such as a split in the Y-pipe or that the existing dump valve hasn't been jammed open, they are both common probs and simple to check
Good luck

Mark

 

What Y-pipe are you talking about

 

There is a Y shaped plastic pipe underneath the intercooler that connects on to the turbo. Its rigid plastic and has been known to split - its also very restrictive hence me replacing it with Samco boost hoses!

 

Just had my lambda checked (2 wire) and i was getting 0.01v at idle with no fluctuations, f****d i think!!

I dont want to pay £290 for a genuin jap part. does anyone know if the uk part will fit my 94wrx or where i can get one that will fit.

cheers

Mark

 

Mark,

I'm sure someone on here posted a while ago that you can get one from Halfords dirt cheap, though you may need a little work from a mechanic to get it to fit it can be done and is much cheaper.
Try another post about the Lambda, as it seems a slightly different subject now and may get more attention.

Good luck!
Neil

 

I think I have posted here before mate - There are normally universal ones, should be available from a motor factor.

This look likes a very handy site http://www.lambdasensor.com/cgi-bin/shop/shop.cgi/page=general3.htm/SID=PUT_SID_HERE#subaru

 

Just realised that i was testing the wrong sensor. I have 2 sensors in my exhaust. the lambda which is on the drivers side in the manifold just behind the front bumper. And another in the bend at the end of the down pipe directly under the drivers foot well

Does any one know what the sensor is in the exhaust under the foot well on my 94 wrx

cheers

 

Well chaps

I still have idling problems, and still have fueling problems my emissions are to high.

I still think the idling is down to the idle air soleniod but im more concerned about the high emmions at the moment.

What I have done so far is replace my lambda sensor, replaced tubo hose from intercooler with samco item.

Changed my spark plugs.

found out that my induction pipe had a grate big split in it all the way round where the jubili clip fastends to the turbo inlet. Thought this may have explained the emmissions problem as all the air would be sucked in at the split and not through the air filer causing the MAF to read less air pasing it. Resulting in dumping more fuel to compensate.

But Fixing the pipe didnt fix the problem.

I have just got a dawes AFR meter and it is showing (blue light) on WOT which is too rich. Also any slight acceleration through 1st second and 3rd gears, say around town causes the blue light to come on. Other times as I accelerate gently the lights will go red, yellow, green and blue on full boost if im accelerating in say 4th gear from 50 Mph.

Does anyone have a 1994 wrx the same as mine with a dawes AFR meter, and what does your car show on WOT. How is the AFR acting under different driving conditions.

What could be causing my high emissions, I dont know what else to check.

Cheers

Mark.

 

parso_rex.

My dump valve isnt on at the moment, the car is totaly standard apart from a panel filter. I thought these dump valves didnt cause any problems, and what do you mean "plumb backs"!!! (recirc)?

[Edited by SPARKY WRX - 1/3/2003 1:39:16 PM]

 

for the hard-of-typing

[Edited by Turbo_Steve - 1/7/2003 9:03:29 PM]