Sounds fine.

BTW, 870mV at least on my lambda sensor is "too" lean, despite the advice from the Link ECU manual that 870mV is approx 7% CO, it is more like 5% CO on my car, so no harm at all in seeing 890-900mV IMHO.

 

I've got a UK MY97 with full decat and VTA dumpvalve. I'm fitting a Dawes at the weekend and I wanted to make sure the car was fueling ok before fitting it. I'm going to run it at 1.1bar, is that safe? With it running nice and rich I'm considering an induction kit also.

 

Get a knocklink too - just because it is rich doesn't mean it is not too advanced because of the induction kit's effect on the MAF readings.

 

I made and fitted a John Banks(tm) DIY AFR meter today, it's calibrated pin 4, Trimmer T2, to 700mV and pin 6, T1, to 900mV. I have used LEDs in the last 6 positions only (2 red, 2 yellow and 2 green) so it lights up the first red at 800mv second at 820, first yellow at 840 second at 860, and first green at 880 and second at 900. At idle it sits with only the last green LED lit, then starts doing the nightrider thing. Under WOT just the last green LED stays lit with none of the others on. Does this mean I've got more than 900mv at WOT, thus running nice and rich?

If anybody finds this post confusing here's the original AFR thread:

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...D=57428&Page=1

[Edited by DreXeL - 11/12/2002 7:54:19 PM]