When used inline, the 2 valves have different purposes.
The grey valve will not allow air to pass through it, until a preset pressure. Hence I have used it in a Tee, as it will not bleed off any air below say 1 bar, and will bleed off above 1bar, fooling the map sensor, whilst staying shut all other times, including vacuum/part throttle.
The black valve in the article is basically a bleed valve, but this one allows air to pass through it, bleeding off anything above say 1 bar, or at least trying to vent any excess to maintain a 1 bar pressure in the line.
So, Tee-ing the grey and In-line the black, will perform pretty much the same function in the case of trying to fool the map sensor.
I just used the grey one as I seen it as easier, and was dead certain abouts its function.
You want the Map sensor to see everything below 1 bar ( or whatever the fuel cut is ), You do not want it to see anything above, so basically you want to bleed off anything above 1 bar which either of the valves will do.

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 10/1/2002 5:23:48 PM]

 

the way you describe it above sounds like there is no fuel cut with either setup, the way i was thinking was if you put the grey valve inline then you would retain the fuel cut because you could set it to let boost past at say 16psi and so trigger fuel cutoff

...or does the map sensor need some sort of reading all the time, which it wouldn't get if you let it have no boost at all until 16psi


kev

[Edited by flat4 - 10/1/2002 5:32:16 PM]

 

Check out this link,there is a uk website with online ordering and i think maplin do something as well,i used a norgen valve like the dawes,will dig the packaging out and post the part no,there was a good thread with some guy from scotland who posted some info,cossie convert i think.

www.uk.norgren.com


[Edited by paul w - 10/1/2002 8:36:10 PM]

 

don't worry about, we'll see if the one i've ordered does the job (that's presuming it turns up tomorrow ) went with the regulator because it's easier to get hold of, ordered the correct spring for it aswell


kev





edited due to scoobynet ballsing it up

[Edited by flat4 - 10/4/2002 12:04:06 AM]

 

ok, i've installed the pressure regualtor, but not sure if it's working correctly

the more air i let through the valve, the more it sucks (vacuum) air in through the unused hole on the side (vent?) and then the car won't idle and 'check engine' light comes on


kev




edited to say: been out and tried it and the fuel cut has gone , the 'check engine' light only comes on when it's at idle although now it runs ok at idle after i had adjusted it

i think the map sensor isn't getting the correct reading for the vacuum at idle because of the leak in the system now, i'am not sure if i could blank off the offending hole or is that the relief hole for the excess air (not sure it's designed for vacuum aswell as compressed air )

[Edited by flat4 - 10/4/2002 9:10:34 PM]

 

I'm not 100% sure..
However, when i was testing i used a normal bleed valve plumbed straight into the pipe to raise fuel cut.. this gave me no CEL and idling was fine. (completely open on vacumn and boost.)
However, when fitted in the solenoid to map sensor line i got CEL, as far as i know the map sensor only reads positive pressure..
Rob

[Edited by tweenierob - 10/4/2002 10:17:07 PM]

 

just wanted to up the boost to 15-16psi without any mucking i've been told this before but completely forgot


kev

 

I used a norgen ( i think thats the name ) pneumatic valve to do it. It just vents any excess pressure above an adjustable point. Its closed under vacuum, so works fine. Cost was about £18 including a bracket. I had to fit it with a different spring though, to reduce the pressure operating range. Its basically a one way bleed valve. so no doubt a dawes type device would do the same job if positioned correctly.

 

anyway of using the standard boost controller, got a dawes fitted so it's just sitting there

i'm reaching the limits of my knowledge probably help if i knew what pipes/tubes i was looking for


kev

 

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?ThreadID=119754

 

i'll read that thread when i've got an hour or 2

so i'm guessing there's no quick fix for this then


kev

 

The method I used is both simple and quick. Easiest way is to use a bleed valve and a non-return valve. The bleed valve allows pressure to escape, showing the MAP sensor a lower pressure, while the non return valve allows it to read properly under manifold vacuum.
The valve I used is sealed until a preset pressure. Its basically just a small regulating valve for a compressor. This works fine as it is always sealed under vacuum, and only bleeds off above a set pressure.
The valve I used is a Norgren ported pressure relief valve. Part number V07-200-NNLG, although I had to change the internal spring as its designed pressure range is 0.3-9 bar, which makes adjusting difficult. One with a softer spring should be V07-200-NNCG 0.3-2bar , but I was unable to get this, so it was easier to change the spring. Simply Tee ( do not place it in-line ) the valve into the MAP signal line, and and adjust. With the valve fully closed, the fuel cut will be as std. Adjust so that you dont hit the fuel cut anymore, but the function should still be there, just at a higher pressure.
There are no doubt other valves that could be used, probably in-line, but I used that one as it is easy and I had it lying about and knew it would work.

Some time ago, I think John Banks posted a DIY electronic circuit for altering the fuel cut setting.

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 9/28/2002 11:05:40 AM]

 

http://forums.i-club.com/forums/show...5&pagenumber=1
There is probably a thread here at scoobynet on it too, but I think I-club will do the trick.
I built the circuit (MY01, Aus) with a mod or two of my own, and it does pretty much what that pneumatic method does, but the new shape has the MAP bolted directly to the manifold, so the electronic method works rather nicely (and easier for me too, finding a good valve supplier etc here in Aus isn't easy, where as I had most of the bits already for a circuit, and easily purchased from local electronics/hobby stores).
R's
Tony

 

thanks for the replies

electronic method sounds good, but not done any electronics for 10 years or more so i'm struggling to understand those diagrams and big words


kev

 

exactly why I used the simple pneumatic method. The electronics bit goes way over my head.

 

give use a clue where i'am meant to be looking, not even sure i know which tube it is is it near the boost controller on the left hand side of the engine bay? (92 legacy)


kev

 

The map sensor is located on the driver side strut tower. Small hose coming from the top of the inlet manifold. It passes through a small solenoid valve before going to the map sensor. I'll get a pic later

 

sounds familiar, pic would help though, got rolling road next weekend and need more power for a day


kev

 

The valve is the grey thing, and it is simply tee'd off the MAP signal line.
There is another valve which would do the same thing, with a black **** for adjusting, but you would install it in-line
The valves are simply those used in Autospeeds DIY Audi boost controller article.
Obviously using any method of removing/altering the boost cut should be done with caution.
And I will post the pic when turbosport lets me upload the bloody thing...





[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 9/30/2002 5:23:27 PM]

 

HKS FCD 'Fuel Cut Defencer', probably the easiest & quickest way of upping fuel cutoff, but not the safest....

 

The HKS is not bad because you still have a fuel cut http://www.mr2.com/ARTICLE/HKSFCDat.html

 

had a quick go at getting a pressure release valve at lunch and had no luck at all, although going to machine mart probably has something to do with it useless lot [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

any ideas where i can get one from? had noticed that, and don't laugh, home brewing kits have these to vent off built-up pressure in the barrel, not sure if these are adjustable though and up to the job best thing i could find using google


kev

[Edited by flat4 - 9/30/2002 5:59:08 PM]

 

btt see above.

 

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/P_1/article.html

you mean this one just need to get hold of one now


kev

 

http://www.hoseassemblies.co.uk/Parkerpage.htm this might be a stroke of luck, i work right on their doorstep any good?


kev

 

The very same one. I tried it on the subaru though, and I just couldnt get the boost control as accurate as i wanted, so just went for a Blitz. But the 2 valves I mention are the ones in the article. No doubt there are various other manufacturers that do the valves for the same job.

 

The very same one. I tried it on the subaru though, and I just couldnt get the boost control as accurate as i wanted, so just went for a Blitz. But the 2 valves I mention are the ones in the article. No doubt there are various other manufacturers that do the valves for the same job.

 

i'am right in saying that the pressure regulator removes all fuel cut i.e. fool the car into thinking it's always at 14.5 psi, so the boost could go as high as it wanted to

but the pressure relief valve can be set to cut the fuel at whatever boost you'd require

i'll see what i can do tomorrow


kev







[Edited by flat4 - 10/1/2002 12:27:05 AM]

 

Well, I suppose strictly speaking it should, but I found that by driving the car til hit hits the fuel cut, and adjusting until its gone, possibly with another slight adjustment, just to allow for a slight variation in pressure, that it isnt gone. If you set it carefully, then I have found that the fuel cut is still there, it has only been raised a bit.

 

so if you set the regulator to 16psi then your going to be hitting fuel cut at 14.5psi still as it is letting 16psi get to the sensor


kev