When removing the engine, neither the PAS needs drained or removed, or the Aircon system. Both pumps can be removed from the engine, and held out of the way, without splitting any pipes requiring anything to be refilled.
Yes the cooling system can cause airlocks, but just dont rush, fill it up slowly.
Removing the engine is the easier option, I have done it plenty of times. Another bonus, if you remove the engine, is that if it is near service time, the plugs will be a doddle to get at, and the timing belt is so much easier to change.
Assuming no bolts sieze on the downpipe ( which has to removed anyway to remove the gearbox ), then the engine can easily be out in 3 hours ( for a first timer ) Generally, it can be out easily in under 2 hours. It will also make it easier to get at, and inspect it for oil leaks, and to replace anything necesssary. Especially if somehow it is the rocker covers leaking.
The only time Id remove the gearbox, with the engine staying in the car, is if it was broke.

[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 9/1/2002 11:39:04 AM]

 

Hi Lads,

Wondering on any tips or info on removing the gearbox. I may be able to use a shed with a pit, so that might make it easier.

Would anybody have the part number for the breather plate, & in what region cost wise?

Any recommendations for the job (i.e. leave it to a mechanic or do it myself). Never been any reason for me to take a gearbox out & hence wonder am I biting of more than I can chew?

Any info on location of bolts / how many / how hard etc would be really appreciated.

I've already had the dowpipe off about two months ago so that shouldn't pose a major problem.

Regards

Johny.


Edited - to say should've started a new thread for this....


[Edited by jmca - 9/2/2002 7:13:54 PM]

 

Anyone who can please help with info on this it'd be very much appreciated!!

I've got a drip of oil coming from the underneath. On investigation I thought it was one of the screws loose from the back of the sump but managed to squish a rag & clean what was there - watched & it seems to be coming from where the flywheel lives - as if it comes down vertically & then collects & runs horizontally towards the back & drips down then when it cant run anymore.

If anyone can tell me :

- How bad this sounds?

- What might be the problem? (seal, gasket ??)

- Would there be some bolt that may have worked slightly loose, how many bolts are there?

- How hard to get fixed?

- How much average guess it would cost?

- Extent of what has to come out to get it done?

I have recollections of people taking out their own gearbox, is this hard/long - something to shy away from?

Any thoughts, suggestions etc more than welcome. I've managed to pinpoint it, but wonder on my next step before shelling out wads to get it sorted?

Regards & thanks.

Johny.

 

it's the breather plate behind the flywheel i've done loads now but it does mean gearbox out and flywheel off to get at it not the easiest job to do on your driveway!!!

 

If it was me, Id be taking the engine out, much easier. Gearboxes are too bloody heavy to work with lying on the ground.

 

too much work to take the engine out ,rad out ,degas aircon if fitted, power steering, etc not to mention lifting equipment and the mess it makes. at least by removing the gearbox you can bung the end where the prop goes and support it on a jack to lift it out. no mess and no risk of airlocks in the cooling system either.

 

thats where we differ then i would always remove the gearbox and have engine out only if that was broke. i know the p/s doesn't have to be drained i didnt say you had to anyway.
i can do a turbo clutch in 1hr 30 job done out on road test and an engine out in an 1 hr so that means it would take me longer to do it that way and thats without having to fill up the coolant system. when times against you you have to find the quickest way of doing things which for me is gearbox first every time.

 

True, I just dont like lying on my back, struggling with heavy things, when its so easy to remove the engine. Timewise, there would be little difference, but as the oil leak is coming from the engine, then any subsequent repairs to the engine, in this case would be so much easier......
With an engine crane, removing the engine, there is no heavy lifting involved at all, and I actually only need to be under the car for about 10 minutes, so no crawling about either.
Each to their own.

 

Hi Guys,

Much appreciated for the info! Looks like there's no escaping the work then! Had figured it was bad but hoped that maybe it was just some loose bolts or something!

Regards

Johny.

 

Would anyone have an estimate of time & cost for fixing the problem? Just want to have a fair idea.

Regards

Johny.

 

no new gasket or bolts needed it's a plate on the right hand side under the flywheel held on by 6 phillips type screws which can be a bugger to undo. take it off clean off the old instant gasket reapply with new and put back together. dont use that blue stuff as i find that oil eats its way through after a while i use the proper red gasket that subaru do and never had a problem with it.
as for the gearbox theres 4 bell housing bolts , a propshaft, 2 front driveshafts and a crossmember it sits on dead easy to get out just remember the pivot pin behind the plug next to the startermotor.