Ummm...why remove the IC?

I've had the downpipe removed a gazillion times on my scoob...there is *no* need to do that really.

I'd say ~3-ish hours for the job (without air tools, with it'll be closer to 2), it's simple really - the only thing might be the bolts at the turbo, they've got a nasty habit of crossthreading.

/J

[Edited by SecretAgentMan - 8/1/2002 3:21:26 PM]

 

Ooops double post.

Its much easier if you do take the intercooler off and it only takes 2 minutes to remove it.

[Edited by Pete Croney - 8/1/2002 3:23:05 PM]

 

Hi guys,

I think I may run in and have my full turbo back SS exhaust installed today.

How long does it take to do the job ? I will need to take off the I/C, put in the new restrictor, remove the old exhuast and cut the heat shield, replace the new exhaust and heat sheild then replace I/C.

I will be supervising a muffler mechanic and he has all the lifts, cutting equipment, air power torque wrenches etc...

2 hours ??

Cheers,
Ray

 

1.5 to 2.0 hours, at most.

 

Cheers guys

Ray

If I get it done today I will let you all know the results

Wish me luck !

 

secretagentman

i also have removed replaced downpipe but have to conclude IMO that it is easier to do with the i/c removed. it is also easier to move the heatshield with the i/c removed.

the oither benefit of removing it is that you do not use to store your tools on and consequently damage the fins.

 

Good luck!



/J

 

...wait a minute - could it be due to the fact that my car is LHD...and the steering/brake assembly runs on the opposite side...



/J

 

that would help

but I would still take the intercooler off

 

well nearer 3 for me. but then i spend my day behind a desk not under a scooby bonnet!

 

All done gents

I was in a panic at first as the car was smoking due to there still being some grease / grime on the downpipe and heat sheild from handling during installation

It sounds excellent...I love it

I must admit though that the 'kick' at 4,000 rpms has gone...I guess it is becuase the power delivery is smoother from down low ?

I am anxious to get a boost gauge put on to make sure that it is not under boosting....I mean the car is running really nice so far; however, it just 'feels' slower, better down low, but seems to 'pull' less overall....think I need to get a boost gauage to make sure that boost is running 1.0 - 1.2 bar (15 - 18 psi).

Thanks for all the halp guys and I will keep you all posted...thanks again Pete for getting all the parts sent down here for me

Cheers,
Ray

PS: took about 3 hours in all (about 45 mins messin with the heat sheild trying to get it bolted back on properly after cutting it Not that bad imho

[Edited by Razor2001 - 8/2/2002 11:34:29 AM]

[Edited by Razor2001 - 8/2/2002 11:34:49 AM]

 

Hi Pete,

Any comments on the above ??

Cheers,
Ray

 

bttt

 

I have a MY99 with SS DP and BB and Magnex baffled centre. ITG filter and Dawes too.

I didn't notice any loss of power at all - quite the reverse. The kick comes in just before 3k on mine, helped no doubt by the Dawes (running 15.5 psi).

Cheers, Jon

 

Hi Ray

because you have considerably more power low down the climb onto boost can feel less aggressive.

As a comparison, go from a steady throttle to WOT at 4,000 and feel how quick boost build is now. Also use WOT at 3,000 and see how it compares with before. Both will be substatially quicker.

Now the car will be building boost from around 2900 giving full boost by 3200 so it is a nice smooth increase in power. Before it was wait, wait a bit longer... whoosh. Whilst this may give a kick in the back, the car with the full exhaust is 50m further down the road and still opening out the gap.

Not bad timing if it was their first one.

 

Cheers Pete

I do like the low down torque

Ray

 

I give up and admit my ignorance but will somebody please tell me wot the h3ll is WOT?? Ta

 

Wide Open Throttle...

 

Much obliged, kind sir .

 

Razor,the car should not feel slower in any respect.I have the same set up and not only did the car come alive by 3000 rpm but then also revved to the redline much better.You MUST get a boost gauge ASAP to make sure you have the optimum restrictor,or you may be missing out on valuable horses.IMHO,the decatted exhaust with right restrictor had only benefits and no downsides.Deep.

 

Hi Deep,

I agree with you 100%. My car is definately slower and I can 'feel' that boost is down. I am going to try and get a boost gauge ASAP ! I am very confident that the restrictor is too big and I am running way less boost than stock. I have discussed with other people that say 1.25mm is too big and they had to go down to 1.10mm to get to the factory 1.2 bar of boost as it was running under 1 bar with a 1.25mm restrictor. Before I start messing with the restrictor size I am going to get a boost gauge. I am curious to know what sizes people are running out there with the JDM STi-7 full turbo back decat and silencor removal. I have to get this sorted as although low down (1,000 - 2,500 rpms) my car feels good I know boost is low, I would guess under .90 bar. Car just doesn't pull.

Well I will keep you guys updated. Deep what size restrictor are you running and with what mods ?

Cheers,
Ray

 

Hi Razor.I've now got the full turbo back Scoobysport system and the up pipe replaced.I am running a 1.25mm restrictor.I am thinking of changing to a 1.2mm.I can peak and hold up to 1.25 bar in 4/5/6 under WOT.3RD gear WOT is .9 to 1 bar.My car in standard form was spiking 1.45 bar in4/5/6 and holding 1.35 bar before tailing off.Based on this I think I can afford to go up to 1.3 bar now.Even though I do understand that I will be running a leaner mixture with the new exhaust.I have a Knocklink that has shown no det so far even after a really hard drive on one of our hottest days.I do run Optimax,98.5 RON(much debate on this at present also) with Octane booster.I'll let you know how I get on after the restrictor change.
ps make sure you get an accurate BG that you have faith in

 

Hi deep,

Thanks for the response again. I am going to get a GReddy, Blitz or Apexi boost gauge. I think they are all very accurate. I will go for the mechanical one vs. the electrical as the mechanical will probably be much easier to install.

Thanks again and keep us informed on your restrictor changes.

Cheers,
Ray