Problem Brake Dust on Wheels
#1
Hi all,
Now can anyone suggest how to remove the really really stubborn brake dust bits that lodge themselves on your wheels. I have used zymol and polished/t cut a few times but some stubborn bits still remain.
Please help!
Sunil
PS...why is it every time you wash your car, you find more blimin scratches?
Now can anyone suggest how to remove the really really stubborn brake dust bits that lodge themselves on your wheels. I have used zymol and polished/t cut a few times but some stubborn bits still remain.
Please help!
Sunil
PS...why is it every time you wash your car, you find more blimin scratches?
#2
Sunil matey...
Simple.. get new wheels... or dont brake...
I find washing up liquid works very well...
Or.. if it is really bad.. I use a little solvent.. to remove it.. then immediately wash it off.... my alloys are fine...
J.
Simple.. get new wheels... or dont brake...
I find washing up liquid works very well...
Or.. if it is really bad.. I use a little solvent.. to remove it.. then immediately wash it off.... my alloys are fine...
J.
#7
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I use wonder wheels and they look like new when i have finished. I have standard 16" wheels not sure what the effect on gold would have.
David the only way to clean the hard to reach places is probably to take the wheels off .
cheers
chrisp
David the only way to clean the hard to reach places is probably to take the wheels off .
cheers
chrisp
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#9
Brake dust is a real pain and builds up very quickly (if I remember correctly its not a good thing to have on you alloy wheels for any time as its corrosive)
Currently I jet wash the car as often as I can (weekends, or every other in this weather) but I do not use any special wheel cleaner.
Currently I jet wash the car as often as I can (weekends, or every other in this weather) but I do not use any special wheel cleaner.
#12
Mark,
Come on tell us all the easy way to get brake dust off our alloys. I spent 4 hours trying to get the inside of ONE front alloy clean. I was using Zymol wheel cleaner. I know I should have called you and asked but you know how it goes (did not want to be beaten by an alloy wheel ).
By the way the Zymol car wash, HD-Cleanse, Wax - Brilliant stuff, should be standard issue with every new Scooby. Cheers Mark my life is now a little bit brighter. Oh and by the way please pass on my thanks to Leslie for her help.
Dave
Come on tell us all the easy way to get brake dust off our alloys. I spent 4 hours trying to get the inside of ONE front alloy clean. I was using Zymol wheel cleaner. I know I should have called you and asked but you know how it goes (did not want to be beaten by an alloy wheel ).
By the way the Zymol car wash, HD-Cleanse, Wax - Brilliant stuff, should be standard issue with every new Scooby. Cheers Mark my life is now a little bit brighter. Oh and by the way please pass on my thanks to Leslie for her help.
Dave
#14
hi
i use the degreaser that my wife uses for the
kitchen.
for the inside of the wheel i steer all and
with a sponge full of degreaser i wash half wheel(til where i can reach ),and so for all 4 wheels , then make them have half round and wash the next half
cheers
ari
i use the degreaser that my wife uses for the
kitchen.
for the inside of the wheel i steer all and
with a sponge full of degreaser i wash half wheel(til where i can reach ),and so for all 4 wheels , then make them have half round and wash the next half
cheers
ari
#15
Wonder wheels to get the wheels clean, then wipe some WD40 over them so that they are easier to clean next time.
I have some long angled brushes for the inside, "acquired" by a relative, which work very well.
I have some long angled brushes for the inside, "acquired" by a relative, which work very well.
#17
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You should be thinking more of preventing the dust build up !
I can recommend turtlewax brake dust barrier..dead good as long as you redo it every couple of months.
those who use wonder wheels should know that regular use will strip the lacquer - it is a very strong alkali - get some in a finger cut
best bet is to use something like wonderwheels and get the things ridiculously clean - off the car is best, then apply a barrier.
then all you need is regular washing...
I can recommend turtlewax brake dust barrier..dead good as long as you redo it every couple of months.
those who use wonder wheels should know that regular use will strip the lacquer - it is a very strong alkali - get some in a finger cut
best bet is to use something like wonderwheels and get the things ridiculously clean - off the car is best, then apply a barrier.
then all you need is regular washing...
#18
toothpaste eh ! sounds like its worth a try. you used to be able to get brake dust protector that fitted on before you fitted the wheel (don't gte to see the disc or caliper) don't know if they are still available or even if they are such a great idea.
#19
DaveW
Send me your wheels...I'll do them the day they and ship straight back, all clean, no brake dust and coated in lashing of wax...cost...na nothing. you just sort out the carriage.
The problem you have is that the dust has been on the wheel toooooo long and has sunk into the laquer. You should protect the wheel with the wheel coat in the kit as this will provide a barrier for you. Also and this is not being rude....brake less...that means drive but read the road ahead and use the gearbox and engine to brake...this provides more control whilst being redy for the next manouvre.
Try do the Advanced Motorist Test as this will teach you to "read ahead" and therefore avoid unnessary braking. Practice this gradually increasing the distance that you drive without the use of brakes. I did a course many years ago with an ex chief inspector in traffic and got one day from one side of plymouth to the other without braking! i still practice.
Send me your wheels...I'll do them the day they and ship straight back, all clean, no brake dust and coated in lashing of wax...cost...na nothing. you just sort out the carriage.
The problem you have is that the dust has been on the wheel toooooo long and has sunk into the laquer. You should protect the wheel with the wheel coat in the kit as this will provide a barrier for you. Also and this is not being rude....brake less...that means drive but read the road ahead and use the gearbox and engine to brake...this provides more control whilst being redy for the next manouvre.
Try do the Advanced Motorist Test as this will teach you to "read ahead" and therefore avoid unnessary braking. Practice this gradually increasing the distance that you drive without the use of brakes. I did a course many years ago with an ex chief inspector in traffic and got one day from one side of plymouth to the other without braking! i still practice.
#20
Last winter I had two wheels replaced under warranty due to corrosion/staining on the leading edges of the spokes(only 7 months old).
This only happened to the front wheels and got really bad when they started to salt the roads.
The new ones were OK all summer but this winter it has happened again.It seems to be the salt that does them in
I have tried using wonder wheels without success.In the past I've found it damages your wheels more in the long run.
Subaru seem to have cut corners when it comes to protecting the wheels.The coating has chipped easily and mine are not even painted on the back (neither were the new ones).
The wheels on my last car were in better nick after five years!
Time to test the dealers JD Power rating.
This only happened to the front wheels and got really bad when they started to salt the roads.
The new ones were OK all summer but this winter it has happened again.It seems to be the salt that does them in
I have tried using wonder wheels without success.In the past I've found it damages your wheels more in the long run.
Subaru seem to have cut corners when it comes to protecting the wheels.The coating has chipped easily and mine are not even painted on the back (neither were the new ones).
The wheels on my last car were in better nick after five years!
Time to test the dealers JD Power rating.
#21
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Wonder Wheels is the stuff to use, seems expensive but lasts for ages. Wash off surface muck, allow to dry, brush on wonder wheels (I use a baby bottle cleaning brush for the insides), leave for 10 mins, rinse off. Usually one application is enough, if not just dab a bit more on the dirty bits and leave a bit longer!
Not so sure about coating the wheels with WD40 though, wouldn't this attract more dirt quicker?
Not so sure about coating the wheels with WD40 though, wouldn't this attract more dirt quicker?
#22
wonder wheels is a good product i agree...but and i mean BUT,, err on the side of caution and be extremely careful. Why? this product cleans by chemical reaction. read the haz chem warning and instruction and you'll see why.
#23
I've used Wonder Wheels on my MY98 since new,but the last time I washed it, I found that the chrome wheel nuts are going rusty.Don't know if this is the Wonder Wheels or just age.Any regular users experienced this?
#24
This exactly what I mean...cleaning by CHEMICAL REACTION BY EITHER ACID BASED PRODUCT OR ALKALINE BASED..you have been warned. Use of this is fine if infrequent but now you experience the harmful effects of regular use.
#26
Mark,
What a sound man you are . Might just take you up on the offer (if I can live without driving my Scooby for a few days). I'll give you a call if I can arrange something.
What do you mean BRAKE LESS . Well ok I'll give it a try. Must get that driving course booked.
Why can't SUK have an attitude to its customers like you have .
DaveW
What a sound man you are . Might just take you up on the offer (if I can live without driving my Scooby for a few days). I'll give you a call if I can arrange something.
What do you mean BRAKE LESS . Well ok I'll give it a try. Must get that driving course booked.
Why can't SUK have an attitude to its customers like you have .
DaveW
#27
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Take the point about corrosion possiblities, I haven't had a problem but be carefull if wheels are scratched or chipped?
WD40 makes more sense if you wash it off with soap!
WD40 makes more sense if you wash it off with soap!
#29
Might sound a bit domesticated, but get yourself a bottle of Jif cream with bleach (the light green bottle).
Brush it on the wheels and then brush off with water. For tough bits use a non stick pan scourer...
Just the job and only £1.20 ish a bottle.
As its for use in the kitchen etc. its also not that agressive on wheels, brakes and humans
If you don't believe me, give it a go.
If your wheels are really bad I'd agree with a once over with wonder stuff, but thereafter give them a rinse with Jif.
If nothing else its a really cheap way of getting the worst of the black off...
{PS have used it on silver and gold wheels for over a year each and no harm done}
Brush it on the wheels and then brush off with water. For tough bits use a non stick pan scourer...
Just the job and only £1.20 ish a bottle.
As its for use in the kitchen etc. its also not that agressive on wheels, brakes and humans
If you don't believe me, give it a go.
If your wheels are really bad I'd agree with a once over with wonder stuff, but thereafter give them a rinse with Jif.
If nothing else its a really cheap way of getting the worst of the black off...
{PS have used it on silver and gold wheels for over a year each and no harm done}
#30
Jif....contains ammonia and abrasive materials as well as chalk. If not washed off fully will leave a white stained film. Jif is not designed to clean wheels especially those with a paint or laquer as it dulls the finish thru abrasive and chemical actions. Nitro mors contains ammonia and no u would not use that to clean your wheels. So why use Jif...do you really wwant a dulled finish....if u do then fine.
Why is it that people who willingly spend 30 grand plus finance charges on a motor car stoop and cough at having to spend money on vehicle cosmetic products. £0 plus grand and now they use £1.20 worth of product designed to clean stainlees steel sinks etc around the kitchen...yet the wheels have totally different chemical constituents and make up compared to kitchen products. I just wonder why more of us do not clean our kitchen sinks etc with wonder wheels and other chemical cleaning products? Ah...you say they are not designed for that purpose...so why use Jif on yer wheels that cost around 500 apiece to replace.
As to driving with using brakes less it is very easy to do once this technique has been demonstrated fully. Having last nite prepared a car for a photo shoot I today drove thru plymouth using no brakes...just by reading ahead and using the gearbox. If absolutely nessarry the brakes can be used merely to stop the car from rolling forward at t/lights etc. I'll happily give anyone a lesson even in an automatic car.
Some pad compounds are harder than others and some just produce dust. What kills wheels and their nice finish is continual braking mainly from point and squirt driving techniques where the brakes get hot as well as the discs. Any dust created is at high temp and this when it lands/settles on the wheel surface, stick/adhere and sink into lacquer surface due tothe heat and hence is more difficult to remove.
properly prepared and cleaned wheeels are yes difficult to achieve, but like anything, once the initial hard work is done and protection provided they are easy to keep that way.
I am in the process of finishing a small manual written for by popular request by you guys/gals. Whilst there is a slant towards the products so many of you now use, it is full of hints, tips, do's and donts irrespective of what product you currently use...in other words it contains a little on paint technology, the way to wash, dry, clean and wax your beloved expensive or otherwise cars. Follow the instructions in this manual and you will limit the enviromental as well chemical and solvent damage that you find on your cars. Many of you have testified as to the results as to the use of my products and that is evidence enough.
The manual should be ready in about a week and anyone who would like one please let me know onnce I have made an announcement that it is complete and ready for posting. There will be a small charge to cover costs and postage.
Why is it that people who willingly spend 30 grand plus finance charges on a motor car stoop and cough at having to spend money on vehicle cosmetic products. £0 plus grand and now they use £1.20 worth of product designed to clean stainlees steel sinks etc around the kitchen...yet the wheels have totally different chemical constituents and make up compared to kitchen products. I just wonder why more of us do not clean our kitchen sinks etc with wonder wheels and other chemical cleaning products? Ah...you say they are not designed for that purpose...so why use Jif on yer wheels that cost around 500 apiece to replace.
As to driving with using brakes less it is very easy to do once this technique has been demonstrated fully. Having last nite prepared a car for a photo shoot I today drove thru plymouth using no brakes...just by reading ahead and using the gearbox. If absolutely nessarry the brakes can be used merely to stop the car from rolling forward at t/lights etc. I'll happily give anyone a lesson even in an automatic car.
Some pad compounds are harder than others and some just produce dust. What kills wheels and their nice finish is continual braking mainly from point and squirt driving techniques where the brakes get hot as well as the discs. Any dust created is at high temp and this when it lands/settles on the wheel surface, stick/adhere and sink into lacquer surface due tothe heat and hence is more difficult to remove.
properly prepared and cleaned wheeels are yes difficult to achieve, but like anything, once the initial hard work is done and protection provided they are easy to keep that way.
I am in the process of finishing a small manual written for by popular request by you guys/gals. Whilst there is a slant towards the products so many of you now use, it is full of hints, tips, do's and donts irrespective of what product you currently use...in other words it contains a little on paint technology, the way to wash, dry, clean and wax your beloved expensive or otherwise cars. Follow the instructions in this manual and you will limit the enviromental as well chemical and solvent damage that you find on your cars. Many of you have testified as to the results as to the use of my products and that is evidence enough.
The manual should be ready in about a week and anyone who would like one please let me know onnce I have made an announcement that it is complete and ready for posting. There will be a small charge to cover costs and postage.