Hi guys

I have a JDM ver4 STi wagon that I fitted a deatchwerks dw200 (300lph) fuel pump. This pump is appx 12-14 months old.

Pump was great until last month it stopped priming so I couldn't start the car. I tapped and jiggle the connector and that seems to do the trick.

So just a few days ago the car wouldn't start and I don't hear the pump priming on startup. I tried to tap and jiggle the connector like last time with no luck.

I had the tow truck deliver my car to my home. I told him about my issue and he said to try and bang on the bottom of the tank. I was banging on the tank while he turned the key and the pump started to prime and the car started. Tow truck driver mentioned the motor is seizing up.

I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going? or just a loose connection? I'm getting power to the harness.

 

Think you've answered your own question

 

Haha thanks. I think the pump is going, but I just wanted to ask maybe someone else had a problem like this.

Are there any other uprated fuel pumps for the gc8/gf8 available besides the walboro?

 

RCM.
Scoobyworx.
Both good pumps.
Just double check the connecting block on top of the tank,I've had one shorting and melt the plug to the point it stopped working,if it looks ok then spray some electrical cleaner or wd40 etc into the block/pins to see if that helps.

 

Thanks I will do that. I will clean the contacts when I get home. I'm pretty sure none of the pins are shorting. I used a test light and I do get power to the harness. Is there a way I can test for ground issue?

I'm hesitant to drive this as I don't want to pay for another tow truck incase it acts up again lol.

 

SCOOBYNET will give you 10% off one of our pumps also :-)

 

If the OP's location is correct, then 10% isn't going to help him much.

 

haha thanks. With the money I spent for the tow truck I'd could of got that.

Do you know how many volts I should get when testing the harness connectors?

 

Ive read that an immobilizer could cut the power.

Does anyone know where it would be located? I found a blackbox under the driver side vent behind the dash.

 

Update, I had a friend come by and measure voltage and check the wires. I'm getting 11 volts from the relay, 11 volts from the harness, and 11 volts from the actual pump. We took out the pump, and did the test while it wasn't in the tank. This test was done with the key turned to ACC. The manufacture states the minimum volt to run is 6, max is 18.

The wires did not look corroded, but the connector on the harness, not the one on the pump assembly, looks burnt/melted. Any ideas on how this happened?

 

I can ship for less than that but it's still around £45

 

It's not about Voltage with these pumps it's the current draw under load. Good pumps pull around 13 amps from memory while some not so good pumps can draw around 17amps which will cook wiring

 

Possibly dirty contacts on the fuel pump relay, not sure how the immobiliser will be wired on a Canadian car but the alarm system fitted to a UK also has a relay that cuts the fuel pump and these can suffer with carbon build up on the relay contacts as well. 11 volts sounds a little low unless your battery is low.

 

Thanks Darrell, my multimeter only has max 10A test so I will have to get another meter. To test does the pump/car have to be running? Just put the meter into amp setting, red probe on +, black probe on - on the pump?

I will have to get some electrical contact cleaner. I thought I had some. I have a jdm my98 sti, I'll have to recheck the voltage on the battery.

 

It's a amp clamp you need as. A multi meter won't measure current draw :-)

 

Fuel pump relay sits up under the dash on the drivers side, mine failed earlier in the year, car would try and idle and then stall as it couldn't maintain pressure, changed the pump first and then wouldn't run at all so traced back to the relay.

 

Ahh..my friend has one maybe I can borrow it. Pretty much just put the wire into the clamp and start the car? IF the wire is too small could I attach some leads to the amp clamp and use those?

YEah I managed to find it tonight but my friend ran out of time, has work the next day. 3am here. I'll have to try and test this tomorrow morning. My car hasn't stalled yet. I pulled the pump itself off and the connection from the pump to the pump assembly is good, no melted plastic and tight.

The pump primes now after the tow truck driver banged on the fuel tank mentioned in my original post. Just trying to figure out why it would quit, then work all of a sudden.

 

how do i get the discount on pump Darrel also need a cosworth filter for 98 classic

 

tried that and on a fuel pump and cosworth panel filter that cost £124.65 its given me £1.75 discount ?
i'm not brilliant at maths but thats not right

 

Check the earth to the pump I had to put a separate earth i.e. Drill a hole locally , big screw with a short bit of wire and splice it into the plug earth on the pump as it was breaking down, did the trick for me