Hi all ..

Been having some problem with my wrx here is the story .

Found the car in a barn and snapped it up as it was going for scrap , car was none runner due to cambelt slipped , retimed with new belt it ran well boosted well but a hesitation over .5 bar boost and the would cut the boost to .5 bar and that was it (no engine check light on ) I compression tested here and she was down a lot to around 75 psi but even over the 4 cylinders , leak tested cylinders and all were leaking through valves either exhaust or inlet It also had oil leave at rear of engine etc so I wipped it out heads off for a complete overall new gaskets etc oil separater plate , and full clutch and belt kits and so on . I put the engine back in with newage coil packs gapped the plugs , and fitted a another known working boost controller .. Now car runs spot on but when it boost she runs about .75bar if load it up in 4th or 5th and keep your foot in it she kills the boost to .5bar again so I'm lost tbf , the car a jap import v2 wrx with z4 ecu which it should be, ecu reads clear on flash code and no lights , do these cars monitor boost ? As a z4 should boost to 0.9 bar as I'm only getting .75 ish could it cause the car to shut off boost to .5 bar

Any help welcome

Cheers luke

 

right for anyone who might be intrested

i changed back my boost controller to the one that came with the car and now im running 0.9bar boost on hard acceleratrion car boosts great and goes like a rocket but loading it up 4th again put me in limp 0.5bar and no check engine light either can anyone help cos at this presant moment in time im ready to weight it in !

 

I'd suggest:
Step 1 - rip out and remove aftermarket boost controller completely (leaving it to the ECU to control boost)
Step 2 - pay for an ESL daughterboard and have the car mapped by a professional.

Unfortunately you can't just add a boost controller and whack the boost up as these cars can be pretty temperamental as you're finding out.
The other obvious issue with the boost controller is it's too tempting to play with it!

 

2nd that. boost controlers are not a good idea generally

 

Not to be rude but I have not mentioned an aftermarket boost controller / solenoid anywhere in this thread and tbh I'm that stupid to put one on the car is quick enough as it is when working any way ..... I found the problem this evening so all is now ok

Thanks

 

So what was the problem? Do tell

 

Why ask for advice (help) and when the problem is sorted not pass the info on?.

 

I asked for advice and got silly answers that don't even apply as stated before ! If someone has the same problem and wants to no what was wrong with my car in the hope it's fix's there's then they are welcome to message me and I'll be more than welcome to help them

 

Even for SN,this is a very weird thread.

 

Seconded. Bi-polar mother****ers...

 

made me lol

 

Reading the thread again and to be fair , you didnt mention aftermarket boost controller. But ,then again. you didnt exactly give any details on the boost control , whether mbc or the original solenoid.

 

And the comment by Johned about not sharing the solution , probably wasnt just aimed at you , as its happening quite a lot lately and it is annoying not having feedback.

 

My comment was a general one and not aimed at anyone specific.

 

Well the first question should of been is it standard controller or mbc, not ... You can't just fit a mbc ***** nilly etc ... I personally think people didn't read my post properly and just replied with mbc crap which wasn't very helpful and in all fairness I found the problem diagnosed it and fixed it with no help from here as iv said I will gladly assist people with similar problems no worries but you'll have to ask 👍

 

How can someone ask when they don't know what was wrong or what you did?
Unless you give out some information no one will know wether they should ask or not lol....

You did say you fitted a boost controller. Subarus as standard do not have a boost controller so yes I'd have assumed you meant an after market unit. So your post was very ambiguous, and if you meant solenoid or actuator etc then maybe that's what you should have said.

 

This thread is all over the place..
To the OP...
If it's going into limp mode (0.5bar) it's sensing overboost or some other problem.
1) Is the boost gauge accurate? If it's underreading, the ECU will sense true boost and pull it back.
2) When the cambelt went, did it cause head damage? If so, it may affect combustion leading to knock being identified (even if it's not det'ing) - ECU will go into limp mode.
3) Aftermarket boost controllers are a no-no unless you have decent monitoring in place. Switch everything back to standard (if you can) for a baseline - then you can start to eliminate faults.

If I were you, I'd start with putting the ECU in diagnostic mode and see if it show's any errors. Get it as close to stock as you can and then eliminate the faults one at a time. There's more than enough info on here to get you going in no time. Hope this helps.