looking for recomendations for rust treatment for behind bumpers and under car , im thinking por15 to seal it but what rust neutraliser do people recomend

 

I've used Kurust in the past and does the job. If it doesn't go like a dark inky blue/black re-apply. Can pick up in most home/auto stores.

 

Bilt Hamber is the best IMO. Used it a lot on a DC5 I had due to it not being undersealed as its was JDM.

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-...ust-treatments

 

i think the gel looks good if it is flat panels that are easly wrapped to keep moist but i like kurust or similier for tricky bits brackets etc

might just have to try them see what works best , im also thinking waxoyl for inside doors and wings etc and por15 for more exposed areas behind bumpers ,wheel arches and undersides

any more thoughts / advice welcome

 

Gary for anywhere like under the car or wheels arches that gets a real hammering another product from Bilt Hamber called Dynax, it comes as a spray or in a tin. Its like black treacle and I just brushed it on my wheel arches. Similar to Waxoyl but harder wearing.

http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-ub

 

the only thing that puts me off using that in the wheel arches is that its brown , i like the idea of por15 because it comes in black grey and silver which i think will look better in the arches

i might try the dynax under the car

 

I used the POR15 kit on mine it comes with degreaser and prep spray, easy to use but don't get it on your skin because it takes ages to get off sets rock hard too and is supposed to be chip proof

 

Dynax also comes opaque. It clever stuff and flows into the crease lines. The Bilt Hamber version of cure rust is epic too.

 

BiltHamber superb products that work.SJ.

 

Dinitrol cavity wax is very good for inside panels/sills. That's what I've used. Also good to spray on light wear places like behind bumpers, keeps the moisture out and rust at bay.

 

Jenolite gel.

 

plenty to look into there anyway .

 

some comparisons for U

http://www.auson.se/sites/default/fi...nthly_uk_0.pdf

 

red oxide has stood test of time with me on non car items so think i will go back to it for my classic, tried new tech por15, bilt hammer etc and its not all that its made out to be.

I will 100% never ever underseal or waxoyl a car again!!

ps methyl/white spirits wont clean up por15 but any generic proper thinners will with ease.

 

I've just used a rust converter called Fertan. The write up on it quite Inpressive, also search on YouTube. I've used it on my arb brackets, now they have been blacked by the treatment(dead rust), you just wash off any excess after a day and then paint. They claim a treated surface will stay Rust free for up to 6 month without any protection (not sure about this ?). I will find out.....
what I liked about this treatment you can spray it, brush it etc, really user friendly and can use it in damp conditions.
http://www.fertan.com/products/derusting-products/fertan-rust-converter/
Phil.

 

ill be getting both the winning external and wax sealer from that, glad i read that before i bought por15 , just need to find the best rust convertor . thanks for the great responses

 

Ask yourself "what would ed china use?"

 

had to google it, i have no idea ,idont watch wheeler dealers, what do you think he would do ?

 

FFS mate he's not being serious

 

really, just as well you pointed that out , i was about to start a thread called what would edd china do

 

 

Very useful.
Thanks.

 

yes, ditto me too

 

im going to get the rustbuster epoxy mastic 121. now looking into prep .

seems to be that all old paint should be removed im not sure how well it will work, wire brushing and treating the rusted areas then painting over it with the em 121 and the surrounding sound paint .

heres what ive found
http://www.rust.co.uk/5-surface-preparation/t12/

 

Epoxy mastic is great. If you can get a totally rust free surface, then there are options, but if the best you can do is to clean off the dirt, loose rust etc with a wire brush, then this stuff, in my experience, is the only stuff that will actually stop that corrosion developing.

I did my VW camper that was an aussie import 7 years ago. The whole underneath had surface rust, but not much else. Did it with epoxy mastic and its still looks just as good today, albeit with a coating of dirt.

 

You just need a rust converter now. Unless you can angle grind any rust off to make good.
Phil

 

I have painted the whole underside of an Impreza with 121. I removed every component and angle grinder wire brushed all of the old underseal and paint off to bare metal. Then applied to bare steel. Worked well but if you do this make sure to seam seal on any welded seam. Or when the seams flex the epoxy may crack. You can paint the epoxy on seam sealer easily. Ideally lots of 121 int he seam, then sealer then more 121.

Also worth mentioning the angle grinder with a steel wire brush attachment is one of the most dangerous tools I own. It will suddenly take hold of something and try to throw the grinder around out of your hand. Also the bristles fly off like spears and stick in you. You definitely want good googles, a face mask, gauntlet type gloves and ear plugs.

It seems fine on the top of light rust but also good over converted rust. While using all these products make sure not to get them in threaded holes! Even the converter as its a latex glue and will block them.

 

Everything he said ^^^^^^^

Especilly about the stray bits of wire!

 

Wire brushes are not the only option and there are several different sorts of brush that can be used if that's you weapon of choice.

 

What are the other options ?

I wonder if nitromors would be ok to strip paint back in places or individual parts